GIT-R-DONE

I changed out the front harness, and just tried it. Same thing. The only wires that were not changed, as they didnt come with the harness, are the ones that come off the alternator that go to the plug in about a foot away. The other ones that were not with the harness, would be the connector forward from the 2 connectors at the WIF sensor.

I am at wits end here. Bout ready to take it out back and torch the GD thing.

GIT-R-DONE

[QUOTE=GIT-R-DONE;2819273] I have had it to the dealer and they told me all the wires checked out ok.voltage,ohms, that kind of thing.
QUOTE]

Wanna, Not being the electrician that I wish I was, I did request that the dealer mech check this. Although, using common sense here, I am in belief that something was missed.
I changed out the wiring harness, with the exception of the wires going from the 2 connectors fwd...that go to the WIF sensor. Also, the only other wires that were not changed my me were the ones that come out of the alternator (about 12" long) that connected to the wiring harness.

Question: is there any way that there is a fuseable link that could be bad on any of the wires above mentioned? I was thinking about taking a wire and hooking it up straight up to the alternator. Can that be done without screwing anything up?

How about the wires fwd of the two connectors that are in the cluster that goes toward the WIF sensor? What wire (s) should I look for in that mess that would cause a charging issue. I dont have a diagram for that to know what is what. Color of wire to check?

I have looked over the CPS wires and they look fine.

I also got a known good PCM and it seems to be working, with no known issues. WTS lite is fine, all gauges go out after a few seconds. So, I have to assume now that the PCM is ok.

wannadiesel

I agree that the new PCM seems to be OK. Did you ever get it charging with the external regulator? If you can't get it charging with an external regulator the it's either a bad alt or you have a basic wiring problem - either you wired it up wrong or the wire from the alt to the battery is bad..

Does the truck have A/C, an auto trans, or cruise - and if so does all that stuff work?

Clyde Roper

did you have the alternators checked out? If you went to the ext regulator they should be making power, regardless of the ecm. Maybe not getting juice to the field wire?? I would be out there with jumper wires making sure it was getting a feed..

GIT-R-DONE

Ok, finally got it on the road now. Took it to a guy that does the alternator business for a living. Mind you I had already hooked up the external regulator.
Alternator checked out ok. He installed another external voltage regulator, and now it works.
What I was doing... was turning off the key and then pulling the pull stop cable to manually shut it down. Well, obviously, when I did that, it blew out the voltage regulator bucause the key was off, but still running the motor.
Currently it is charging at 14.2 +or-.
He felt that there was still something wrong with the wiring "somewhere" that wasnt letting the charge get back to the ecm.
Currently I dont care, as I am back on the road again....but will always keep it in the back of my mind that there is still a problem somewhere.

What I need to know now, is how do I do away witht he pull cable and get the truck back to normal. both wires are hooked up to the FSS..but dont know how/why the previous owner had installed the cable to begin with.

unixcowboy

Probably blew the FSS rubber tip off and the truck wouldn't shut off.

Easiest fix - pull cable...

GIT-R-DONE

I would If I could remember to pullo cable first ALL the time...then the KEY.

prlsnpsdodge

not to change the direction of the thread here.... But my WTS light hasn't come on since it was 50 degrees or colder back in early spring. I'm just outside of dallas TX, so I haven't seen that cool of weather for the last 6 months.... i thought it should be on all of the time, right??? The truck runs fine as far as I know.

wannadiesel

You won't get a WTS light when it's warm outside.

Onemoparnut

My wait to start light comes on even when its a hundred degrees. Whats up with that???

wannadiesel

That's a bulb check, it goes out with the rest of the lights.

lukest93

Ok so I'm brand new to this form and am looking for some info on a problem I created while fixing another one... So my truck wouldn't start and I took the fuel shut off syilonoid and pretty sure I grounded the blue wire out. At any rate the blue wire with a white stripe that runs from the fuse box to the panel that has the wait to start brake and water in fuel lite won't light up and the truck won't turn over unless I put 12v to that wire.... Any ideas on a relay or fuse somewhere that could be blown. Thanks in advance

j_martin

Either a fusible link, or the ignition switch blew to protect the fusible link.

It's a common problem. That circuit runs all over the truck, mostly past moving linkages, and gets unintentionally shorted like that.