W250 Axle Anti-wrap ideas for 4" lift and Dana 70
 

Would sincerely appreciate any success stories on anti-wrap systems. I bought a Ruff Stuff kit to do a single anti-wrap bar with "half moon" plates on the axle and a single shackle on the other end attached to a cross member. But looking at what I have for room, I'm not sure...it seems like if I welded to the axle tube then I'd be right where the exhaust needs to be. Not sure about fabbing something up to weld to the D70 case, but I read about it being done.

So this is a single-bar idea...not "ladder bars" bolted to the spring perches or something.

These 4" Skyjacker springs I have shudder like the dickens when I pull away from a stop, and it's really bad when I have a 9000# trailer behind me, with my 3:54s and 35" tires.

Thanks.

I could see an aggressive clutch/manual trans combo shuddering, but it looks like the auto is your driver, you sure your transmission isn't your your problem? I wouldn't be welding on cast without preheating the whole housing, requiring full disassembly.

I am wondering about the transmission myself. My old 727 did the same thing and it turned out to be a scored valve in the valve body.

Maybe "shudder" isn't the best description..."booty dance" might be. It's much worse when under load, and it settles out at about 15-20mph. I'm sure it has something to do with pinion and driveshaft angle as the u-joint rotates, because it's slower at start, and then becomes less as you get moving. Makes it very interesting to get a load started on a steep grade, or pull away hard from a dead stop. Once you get the truck moving, however, it's fine to accelerate.

The 518 trans was rebuilt a year ago, and now I'm having it rebuilt again into a 47RH. I'll talk to the builder and see if he thinks it could be the trans...I'm just guessing that it isn't.

Maybe that's the reason why every lift block (except stock) has an angle in it, to point the pinion up...but AFAIK that introduces vibration into the driveshaft because of the unequal angles on the u-joints, and the pinion and t-case shafts are not parallel. Mine may not be perfectly parallel, but they're pretty close, and I don't have any vibration.

I'll keep looking on pirate 4x4 or something....I'm just trying to squeeze a single anti-wrap bar in between the exhaust (muffler) and the driveshaft. Thanks.

I have had double block's on truck's with no problem's .I would also look at trans . and maybe even torque converter .

"I wouldn't be welding on cast without preheating the whole housing"


I'm pretty sure that the axle tubes are mild steel. They are pressed into the heated center part of the "pumpkin". The "pumpkin" is cast iron. Shouldn't be any problem to weld on the tubes.


OP, You could try to rig up a pinion snubber of some sort. Similar to what the old Chrysler 8.75 diffs had.

I tossed around a modified version of this around. I don't think it would work with that slider apparatus at he frame end though. Maybe a shackle.
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...-links-274327/