ok guys, tomarro or the next day i will be doing injectors and 60lb valve springs in my truck, are there any pointer? i am going to use a compression checker with air so the valves won't fall my friend told me to do that, but other than that i have never done it, i have a compresser, do i just loosen the rocker arms compress the spring and pull it out? i was told 96lb is that right? and is that foot pounds or inch pounds??
sorry for all the ?'s the past couple days
robert
out

 

You have to remove the rocker bridges. Make sure the cylinder is at overlap when you put each bridge back, or back the adjusters off all the way.

89 foot pounds, plus an additional 90 degrees on the head bolts that go through the rocker bridges.

You can put each cylinder at TDC and just let the valves sit on the piston when you change the springs.

 

You have to remove the rocker bridges. Make sure the cylinder is at overlap when you put each bridge back, or back the adjusters off all the way.

89 foot pounds, plus an additional 90 degrees on the head bolts that go through the rocker bridges.

You can put each cylinder at TDC and just let the valves sit on the piston when you change the springs.

OK, sorry to sound dumb, but could you explane what i need to do in a lil more detail???
what do i need to do to make sure the cylinder is at overlap??
and how do i make sure it is at top dead center??
1 more thing, and have pics? lol
robert
out

 

Sorry, I misspoke. Not overlap, TDC compression is where you need to be.

A little more detail:

There's one big bolt holding down each rocker bridge. That bolt is a head bolt, I just gave you the torque procedure. Remove that bolt and the rocker bridge and both rockers will come off. You want to do this on TDC of the compression stroke so the rocker bridge will go back on straight and not mess up the oil supply tube. Also you can just let the valves sit on top of the piston while you change springs, no need for air in the cylinder. Find TDC compression on #1 with the timing pin, do that set, and work your way through the firing order (153624) to do the rest. Turn the crank 120 degrees and do #5, then another 120 and do #3, you get the idea. If you're using the alternator nut to turn the crank you have to go backwards through the firing order since the engine is going backwards.

I don't mean to be rude, but if this doesn't make sense to you perhaps someone else should do the work.

 

makes enough sense lol, i will admit i am no mechanic but i am learing that is why i am doing these my self instead of paying someone, it all makes prety good sense, nothing to complicated, what is the easiest way to turn the motor over?? do i need to disconect the valves from the rockers? and where is the timing pin?? other than that i should be able to get it, i apprecitate the help, and i don't think you were being rude. everyone has there limits, I am doing all the work on my 6.0 but will have a pro with me the whole time
robert
out

 

The alternator nut is the easiest place to turn the engine, you just have to keep in mind that everything is backwards, since you can only turn the engine backwards from there.

Timing pin is under the injection pump. You turn the engine slowly by hand while pushing in on it. You should be able to push it in about 1/16" and pull it back out. If this is so, it's not broken or stuck. When you hit the hole the pin will go in about 3/8" or so. If you can push it in 3/8" or so without having to turn the engine, it's already broken and you'll have to find TDC by doing the valve drop routine. Anyhow, when the pin drops in the hole, STOP turning the engine immediately. You are now at TDC compression on #1.

When you remove the head bolt, the whole rocker bridge and rocker assembly lifts off. 1 bolt per cylinder, that's it.

 

Two bolts on the rocker bridge. the head bolt, and a small bolt with a 13 mm head.

 

thanks guys, i appreciate it, i may have more ?'s when i get started but all i have for ?'s now is what do i need to turn it at the altinator(i am sure i can figure it out but the truck is outside in the dark now lol) and what order do i need to do it in?(#1 is the front cylinder correct?)
thanks
robert
p.s. will i need to even compress the springs?

 

Here is what I found via the search and it worked well. With only a couple changes as my alternator nut was not 7/8", I think 15/16" and my head bolts were 18mm not 19mm. I don't know if PDR made a typo or 2nd gen 12V's are different. This is from someone at PDR, big thanks to them. Made the job simple.

On the Cummins B series motor you can change the valve springs on 2 cyl's at
a time. The thing to remember is that # 1 & 6 are a pair, # 2 & 5 are paired & # 3 &
4 are paired. You'll need a KD 2078 valve spring compressor, about $25.00 @ PDR or any
tool place that handles KD tools. A 3/8 drive torque wrench & a 1/2 drive torque wrench. 13mm,15mm,19mm, 9/16", 7/8" wrenches and sockets, .010" & .020" feeler gauges & a short flat screw driver [for setting valves afterwards]

Now clean the area around your valve covers, then remove valve covers. Use your 15/16" short socket and place it in the reverse position & attach it to the alternater nut. You'll only be able to turn the motor over backwards, but that is fine. Use the rachet to move the engine & watch your valves, you are looking for an intake valve to be on its way up [doesn't matter what cyl.] Once you've spotted the valve that's moving, lets just pretend that's it's # 2, watch it as it comes up. As it approches the top watch the exhaust valve, as soon as the exhaust valve starts to move down STOP That means that-that cyl. is on exhaust stroke [TDC] and its mate is on compression stroke.[you can check this by feeling the rockers on the other cyl. [in this case # 5] & they should both be loose] Now remove the rocker block, loosen the small bolt
first [13mm head], then the big bolt [19mm head] Use your thumb & forefinger to hold the push rods in place as you lift the rocker block off. You can now safely remove the valve springs [intake or exhaust] on that cyl. once you put that cyl. back together [the big bolt gets torqued first 120ft. lbs then the little bolt 18 ft. lbs. You can now move onto it's mates cyl & repeat the procedure. So now you've done cyls. # 2& 5, rotate the engine some more until you spot the intake valve coming up & the exhaust valve JUST STARTING TO MOVE DOWN STOP you're now ready to do that pair of cylinders. A little trick that makes things easier, when you install the new valve spring into the compressor, crank it into the tool to put some preload on the spring
before tightening the valve spring compressor, that'll make it a littler easier to get the spring on the valve. The reason for this is the KD 2078 is a short throw compressor & the new 60lb springs are a little long for it. When you do get to do # 5 & 6 cly.....the fun ones that little trick will make life much easier.

I will add you definately want that KD tool 2078 to do the install, I got mine from Napa. It worked great. The stock springs are short enough you don't even have to have the tool around the bottom of the spring, to compress it enough to get the keepers/collets or locks off the valve. For the 60#ers you want to use a set of plyers or the like and crank the spring into the tool before compressing it, since its longer. I cranked them in by hand a turn or so, then with plyers cranked it in another turn, which was enough. Don't forget to put the retainer on top of the spring before you compress it. Another tool that was HANDY was a extendable pencil magnet. A must for all toolbox's among other things. I would place the magnet on top the retainer to catch the keepers in the event they go flying when you hit the compressor tool on the top once you compress the stock spring to break the valve and retainer loose. I had to tap the tool with a rubber mallet once I compressed the stock springs, I couldn't figure out why the valve was still locked at full compression of the tool. Made a phone call to another member and he told me about the hammer trick. Once your 60# spring is installed the book says to take your rubber mallet and tap on top the retainer and spring to make sure the collets/locks are set or the like. Use the magnet to place it back on the valve or on top the retainer. Then with your finger or I used a plastic ink pin, remove it from the magnet then place it around the valve. You'll be a pro after the first spring you do. Super simple job. Afterwords I checked/set torque to all the headbolts I could get to and set them to 120ftlbs, most were very close. Be careful with a regular socket, on the first one I broke a Craftsman standard 18mm socket at that torque, had to use an impact socket.. as it was the only other 18mm socket in my box . Scared the you know what out of me cause I thought I broke the headbolt, yelled a certain obsenity.

Afterwords go about the valve adjustment procedure, I set them to 8/18 instead of the books 10/20 per Pastor Bob. I'm sure I left out some good info, but any more questions let me know. Bill.

 

Just out of curiosity, how much does changing to the 60# exhaust valve springs increase the wear on the valve train?

Edwin

 

Thanks for the catch, Timb. Forgot that second one 'cause it's so tiny.

Edwin, I would suggest checking the valve adjustment every 10 - 15k with the heavy springs.

 

Do these have any other benefit other than higher revs and/or an exhaust brake application?

 

No. If you are not using an exhaust brake and have a 3200 RPM spring you don't need 'em.

 

Now hang on Dave, you can still turn over 3500rpm with a 3200rpm gov spring. I correct answer would be, you need them if you have an exhaust brake and or frequent 3500rpm and above.

 

True. However, very few trucks make much power up that high. I'd guess that sane people would shift around 3k, that's where mine starts to fall off.