searcher

I reinstalled the IP and lines. When I try to bleed the lines I continue to get bubbles even after bleeding a dozen times. I had the pump off to do a reseal. I elected not to do a complete reseal since I saw no evidence of the leak I was trying to locate on the engine side of the pump (especially since the how to's in the stickys are basically useless since none of the pictures show up). I did change the Governor cover gasket and the governor screw oring. I removed the throttle control lever to access the screw for the governor cover. I bled the pump untill I had pure diesel coming from 1st the bleed fitting at the filter, next the inlet to the pump, and lastly the pump return. I used a mirror to verify that the half moon key was in the shaft to gear. I checked the fuel cutoff solenoid and showed 11 VDC. I jumped from the battery to get a full 12 VDC.Correct me if I am wrong but when I hooked up the injector lines they have to be correct since starting #1 anywhere else would require bending the line. During bleeding, I get a good fuel flow from #1 (at least better compared to the others), but not what I would expect from any of the remaining lines. Before I pulled the pump, the truck would start as soon as the starter was bumped. Can anyone think of something I could have screwed up on in the procedure that would cause the pump to only build slight pressure to the injectors. When I loosen 2 lines for bleeding and then retighten, I open another line and get a pressure release so the pump is building and holding pressure (just not enough).

thrashingcows

Not sure of the exact part name, but inside the IP there is a fuel control collar and slides on a shaft but is controlled by a ball on the bottom of a lever. If that came out of the socket and the collar is no longer hooked up it can cause the issue your having.

searcher

Thanks TC. As I mentioned in my other post on pulling the pump, when I raised the cover only slightly I heard a metalic click like a tension release. I was never able to figure what it was. The spring was never released from the top hat, only from the throttle lever. If anyone has it, I need more info on the fuel control collar thrashingcows is refering to.

thrashingcows

It's number 12 in this cross section diagram....



If you removed the gov shaft for the O rings and/or the top at the same time it's possible that the control sleeve came loose. Has happened to me in the past.

mknittle

Also make sure the throttle lever is indexed correctly #3 in Brian's drawing.

edwinsmith

I just happened to think but did you back off the fuel screw #6? If not then the noise you heard was #7 hitting the case. When you put the cover back on you have to pull #7 toward the front of the truck with a string or a thin wire. Otherwise it gets stuck under the screw and it will NOT start. It also will bend #7 and mess up the threads on #6.

I did this myself so I know what happens. I had to replace the parts and reseal my pump but it never worked properly afterward. I wound up buying a rebuilt pump.

Edwin

searcher

Thanks Edwin. I now know the problem even without tearing the pump back apart. Photobucket sure screwed things up when they stopped hosting pics for us. I see where the ref. was for the fuel screw but without the pic it was useless. Thats why I didn't go completely thru the pump, but it looked like the cover and governor screw were the same as my TDI. Guess I'm looking for a pump now. I'll pull it off tomorrow just to see the damage. Would that also stop the pump from creating full pressure?

edwinsmith

I can't speak to the pressure part. Because the threads were messed up on the fuel screw #6 it messed up the threads in the hole and the o-ring wouldn't seal. I would have been OK if I didn't pull that screw out. I found the other part #7 and replaced it but the leaks were still there.

If you could find the part #7 and a new top and #6 you might be OK.

Bummer that this had to happen.

Edwin

searcher

I don't know but I might have lucked out. I pulled the cover this afternoon and I didn't see any damage to #7. The threads on 6 were still good. The #7 in my pump is a little different. It's a substantial piece of metal. I really think the cover would crack before it would bend. The engine did catch and sputter as I was bleeding the lines (just before my battery died). It sounded like it was coming apart, but it still had massive amounts of air in the system. Tomorrow will tell the rest of the story.

searcher

I pulled the pump again this morning. I removed the cover and checked everything. It all looked good (no bends, nicks, broken pieces, or springs loose). The only maintenance I did on the pump was replacing the Governor screw oring, replacing the cover gasket, replacing the oring on the throttle shaft, replaced the oring on the fuel screw, and replaced the fuel line from the filter to the IP. Before I pulled the pump (both Times) I locked the shaft. The key is in place to the gear. I bled the pump prior to installing the lines. I'm back to square 1. No matter how much I bleed the lines, I continue to get air bubbles. The engine sometimes sounds like it wants to start but can't quite get there. Am I right that since my shaft was locked it should be close enough to timing to start? When I initially pulled the pump it was almost centered in the mtg bolt cutouts and that is where it is now. If I chose the wrong oring on the r&r would that cause my problems? Could it be the adjustment of my throttle index? I saw on a youtube video that a guy was peeking into the governor making sure that the spring was in place, but I didn't see any thing that could be out of place and still install the cover with the exception of the fuel screw which I now back out. Any and all suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

edwinsmith

If you locked the pump and put it back with the timing marks lined up then the timing should be good. It sounds like to me you have an air leak before the lift pump or the lift pump has gone bad. Have you tried positioning the truck with the front downhill? With a full tank and the truck facing downhill you'll have a gravity assist to push fuel through a weak lift pump.

You can also try a little pressure (5-8 psi) in the tank to see if it will help move fuel and will pinpoint an air leak.

Edwin

searcher

The pump is out of the truck again. Maybe the 3rd time is the charm. I tried pressurizing the tank and bleeding the injectors. Same as always. I get a good supply of fuel from #1 injector, but only a slight bubbling from the remaining injectors (more bubbling and frothy diesel if I do prolonged cranking). I thought maybe Thashingcows was right so I pulled the pump and removed the cover to check and the ball on the bottom the tentioner lever is in fact engaged in the control sleeve so that's not the problem. There is a lever in the cover that appears to have to match up with a cutout on the side of the tentioner lever. Could that be the problem? It looks like it should engage just by installing the cover. I wrapped a string and pulled the lever while installing the cover tonight. Apparently, my problem is that I am getting fuel to fill the slots for number 1 but not for the remainder of the cylinders. Any thoughts on what would cause the port for filling injectors 2 thru 6 not to open? There has to be something I am missing when reinstalling the top cover. Anyone with any ideas (even if you think "he couldn't have possibly done that") will be greatly appreciated. Thanks so much for any ideas. One more question. On my fuel shutoff solenoid, there are 2 blade connectors. They are 2 different sizes but appear to both be hot. Should there be 2 wires attached? There was only 1 wire when I disassembled the pump and the truck ran fine (but a wire may have pulled loose while taking off the brackets). I don't see a loose wire in the vacinity and I can hear the solinoid function when the key is turned on with one wire connected (hot).

maybe368

I don't know much about ve internals, but maybe you should gut the fss and see what happens. It could be your problem. There is only 1 wire going to the fss...Mark

searcher

Maybe368, I will keep that in mind for the next time I pull the pump. It looks like I will need the topcover off to pull the fss (interferance with the fuel screw). I am still on the bench and pulled the cover again (wanted to double check condition of the starter spring and tensioner spring). I tried removing the fss with open end wrenches I had and was unable to break it free. I was afraid to apply any more torque for the chance of breaking it. I'll wait to get a sending unit wrench. It looks to be a 25mm. Is that correct?

maybe368

I am not sure of the size of the fss, but 2 things that people do are to cut off a piece of that bracket that is in the way with a grinder and to grind down the thickness of a wrench to where it will clear the obstruction. Do a search, there was a recent thread where someone did that and posted up good pics...Mark