I know you got the broken bolt out but did you get her all back together and take her for a spin? What HG did you end up using? any pics of the firerings?
Im sure im not the only one who wants to know

 

Well I'm not who u asked for but heres some info. Theres two ways to do a head oring or fire ring. oring rings hole better u cut the head gasket or buy a cut gasket this lets the rings set on top the block for a tight seal. Your better off to use studs with oring rings but don't have to. Hole's up to 100 psi with studs,Fire rings is what I have just use a stock cummins head gasket and the Ring cuts into the gasket making a seal. To make it work u torque the head and back all the bolts off and retorque for the best hold. With stock head bolts it will hold 80 psi this cheaper than orings. Depends on what the motors used for.

 

Wow I feel special, got an update request . I have it all back together and I'm driving it to work now. I have no plans of hammering on it until I get some heat cycles on the new head and a couple retorques under my belt.

Sorry I wasn't in the best of moods during the install of the head, so I forgot to take any pics of the new HG and fire rings. Cummins only makes 3 headgaskets for the 12V B series. Stock, .010, .020 thickness, which are all marine HG's. To use fire rings you have to have the stock fire-rings cut out of the new HG. I was sold a stock thickness HG. Thinking about it now, I would've liked to pay the little extra for a .020 HG cut for fire rings and the next size up in fire rings. I believe they are .105 diameter wire. I can't believe I didn't get pics of this.

Fire rings or o-rings will require the block or head or both machined/cut grooves in it for the rings to sit in. The HG is placed over the rings. Then you sit the cylinder head down.

I think the consensus if you don't plan to have a ring job is to use a .020 HG. Some call it the marine HG, but since they are all marine HG's, . Any other questions, just let me know.

 

I know how the o-rings and fire-rings work I just wanted to see some fire rings cuz I've only seen o-rings. Oh well... Glad to hear you got her all back together. Did you use ARP 12mm head studs? What did you decide for final torque?

 

I used Haisley's 12mm head studs. Final torque to 125ft-lb. The fire-rings are just a bigger diameter wire used with no stock fire ring. O-rings are smaller diameter and retain stock fire rings.

 

Do haisley's have a clearance problem as well with the vc's? Do they uses something to hold the wire into place on the head or block for o-rings/fire-rings?

 

Some blocks do, some don't. I did. Pics in gallery of valve cover grind. Good compressor and die grinder, spend about 30mins on them.
I don't know about the head, might have to ask Stomp. For the block, you just sit the rings down in the groove that is cut in the block. I don't know how you would hold fire-rings in a cylinder head. Maybe o-rings are small and light enough to stay put??

 

with orings, you machine a groove somewhere in the vicinity of .048". you then tap the .051 wire into that groove. or so i've been told. haven't actually done it myself. yet. i think i'd rather go for that uring thing brain was talking about.

dave

 

Thanks for the info.

Is it a common thing to get the whole head rebuilt when taking it off?

 

I'm not sure. You might check with the machine shop or Piers. I would replace the valve seals, have the valves cleaned up/ground or whatever the machine shops do.

Might be time to spring for one of Pier's $700 brand new complete heads!!!

 

I didn't think seals were necessary because the engine doesn't pull any vacuum thus no oil can be sucked past the valve guides.

Edwin

 

I would be nice if some one had some pic. that showed the diff!

Kinda got my head rapped around the wire desine, but the ether one still



flash

 

Hey Bill how ya making out?

 

ya bill, how is it going? thanks for the laughs last night. she's running good all day today.

 

To bring everyone up to date, I had a slight oil leak at the front of the engine between the head and block right after the first torqueing of the studs/head install.

I originally posted this on diesel-central.
Well last week I relubed the studs, washers and nuts and did a retorque. It's been a week. This seems to have stopped the leak. I haven't really driven it (warmed it up etc), except the short 5-10 minute city stop and go drive to work this week. Looks like I might have forgot to lube the bottom of the washers, cause there wasn't any grease on the bottom, just everywhere else. When I removed the nuts, it first loosened the stud/nut together. I don't know if thats normal for studs?.. I didn't have any ARP moly lube left over, so I used some Schaefer chasis grease that contains moly. Probly doesn't have the same coefficient of friction as ARP's moly lube, but all I had. Some were easier to loosen than others. I think the first torque, I just twisted the studs into the block deeper and wasn't getting a true torque reading on the nuts. This time after I tightened the studs into the block, then torqued each nut, I didn't hear the twisting I did before. I think the studs are now bottomed out in the block.

I think I'll do one more retorque before IRP, but I think I'll borrow a good Matco or Snap-on torque wrench just to be safe. Not sure how good my Craftsman is.

Still haven't gone over 10psi of boost yet. Maybe this weekend I'll give it a rip. First gotta drive the darn thing to warm it up. Otherwise it runs great. It does smoke more down low than it did with the old head, not sure why. I need to swap out the half ground afc lever for a stock one. That or pull the ground afc cone and replace with a stocker.

Now just gotta build up the confidence to install this SBC FE clutch I've had sitting in the front room. Gotta get some miles on it before IRP too.