Okay just finally got around to removing the lock collar on the fuel screw and turning up the power. Idle is kinda high now so I guess I'll have to figure out how to get in there to back up the idle screw right? Also I turned the power screw basically till it stopped and it never over ran. Is that OK? My boost pressure went from 17psi max to 25psi so that's good! I think if I fix my exhaust manifold gasket leak I might get more pressure but I think I'm gonna wait till I can afford one of the new 3 piece exh. manifolds for better performance. Anyone out there switch to the new manifolds and noticed any diff?

 

Fill in your sig. so we know what you have for a truck.

Have you reved it up to governor limit? This is where it will run away if it chooses too.

Some Intercooled trucks wont run away with the screw all the way in.

Read here:

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=158962

 

I've heard that the manifolds are pretty much just for looks. I've never ran one so I can't say for sure. And for the idle I've just adjusted it on the throttle linkage. But I don't have my idle screws( to allow for full throttle travel)

 

I just put a exhaust manifold from pittsburgh power on my detroit 60 series it's ported polished and ceramic coated I can tell a big difference in power and throttle response

 

Yes, revved up to verify function. How's this Biltit?

 

Much better with the sig.

You can buy longer fuel screws so that you can achieve more fueling, or just build up the tip of your existing one.

 

I seem to have developed a fuel leak now. Wonder if I went past the O-ring or something.

 

I just made my own custom adjustable idle. Bracket offfront cover with a wing nut, welded nut to bracket and bolt thru the nut that is locked in place with wing nut. Bolt interfaces with throttle linkage. Works perfect and super easy to adjust.