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Turbo Questions

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Old Jan 20, 2011 | 09:16 AM
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From: Southern New Jersey
Turbo Questions

I have the stock turbo on my truck with a 12cm housing. It will make a little over 40 pounds of boost as is. I have a stock head gasket and stock head bolts. Is there any advantage to doing the compressor upgrade? Would it help performance to put a bigger turbo on? I mean I know I am at the limit for boost till I get some studs at least. So what do you guys think?
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Old Jan 20, 2011 | 09:19 AM
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From: port crane, NY
Wastegated?
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Old Jan 20, 2011 | 09:47 AM
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how hot does it get?
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Old Jan 20, 2011 | 10:11 AM
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as far as I understand the stock compressor wheel is only safe to about 35psi and becomes unsafe and just overheats/drops off power after that. The compressor upgrade would flow more air and help make more power and run lower EGT, but you will also gain a few pounds of boost with the compressor upgrade. The HTT and Gillete upgrades are efficient to 40psi, so IF you can keep boost around there you'll be good.
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Old Jan 20, 2011 | 10:14 AM
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It is waste gated but the waste gate is not hooked up. The egt's get a little high I see 1500 in a 1/4 mile run but I mostly use it as a toy. The little bit I do tow is all on flat ground so egt's are pretty easy to control.
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Old Jan 20, 2011 | 10:24 AM
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You'd be better served by hooking up your wastegate and setting it to open at about 30 - 32 psi. Any more than that and your just heating the air. At 40 psi you're reducing the life of the turbo.
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Old Jan 20, 2011 | 01:47 PM
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From: port crane, NY
If you can get your gate working, I'd say go for the upgrade...pretty good bang for the buck. 35psi from an upgraded wheel is a fair bit more cool air than you're seeing now at 40psi and the gate will help keep everything under control. You'll likely want to cross-drill the housing to gate all 6 cylinders while you're at it. I loved the 60/12 on my '89
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Old Jan 20, 2011 | 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by G1625S
If you can get your gate working, I'd say go for the upgrade...pretty good bang for the buck. 35psi from an upgraded wheel is a fair bit more cool air than you're seeing now at 40psi and the gate will help keep everything under control. You'll likely want to cross-drill the housing to gate all 6 cylinders while you're at it. I loved the 60/12 on my '89
That's kinda what I was wondering was is less more thanks for the help what does cross drilling the housing do. How do you do it and where do you drill?
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Old Jan 20, 2011 | 03:34 PM
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From: Katy, TX off north Mason Road.
Originally Posted by Onemoparnut
That's kinda what I was wondering was is less more thanks for the help what does cross drilling the housing do. How do you do it and where do you drill?
You open the wg valve and take the biggest hole saw u can and drill thru into the other chamber. I think I used a 3/4". That way your bleeding off pressure from all 6 cylinders, not just the back 3.
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Old Jan 20, 2011 | 05:09 PM
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From: Southern New Jersey
Oh ok now I get it. Thanks everyone for the advice.
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Old Jan 20, 2011 | 08:00 PM
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Yep its in the sticky, like others said I bet it would run better and save your turbo with the wastegate hooked up and the compressor upgrade. I had my hy35's wastegate shut and got it to push 35 lbs and it ended up bein toast in a month, but I'm sure there was more reasons than that that made it go.

If you want to leave wastegate un hooked, I'm sure you could still keep it under 35-40 lbs. I can keep the turbo I got on my truck now under that with my right foot, and I could keep the 5000 under 40 (it wanted to go wayyyy past that) so I'm sure you could too. I raced a guy when i had my 5000 on and kept it at about 30 lbs the whole way and it still ran pretty dang good.
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Old Jan 21, 2011 | 04:57 AM
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From: sheet hole called California
Around what temp do egts become harmful to the engine ?
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Old Jan 21, 2011 | 05:31 AM
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From: Southern New Jersey
It depends on how long you keep them there. 1250 degrees is the safe spot to run all day long. You can go higher but only in short bursts.
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Old Jan 21, 2011 | 07:27 AM
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From: Katy, TX off north Mason Road.
Originally Posted by 92smokin blacky
Yep its in the sticky, like others said I bet it would run better and save your turbo with the wastegate hooked up and the compressor upgrade. I had my hy35's wastegate shut and got it to push 35 lbs and it ended up bein toast in a month, but I'm sure there was more reasons than that that made it go.

If you want to leave wastegate un hooked, I'm sure you could still keep it under 35-40 lbs. I can keep the turbo I got on my truck now under that with my right foot, and I could keep the 5000 under 40 (it wanted to go wayyyy past that) so I'm sure you could too. I raced a guy when i had my 5000 on and kept it at about 30 lbs the whole way and it still ran pretty dang good.
The 5000 must have a small exhaust housing to want to run over 40psi. If it wants to run that high, and your compounding the 3000/5000, how high are you going to run your boost?
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Old Jan 21, 2011 | 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by pwrtripls1
The 5000 must have a small exhaust housing to want to run over 40psi. If it wants to run that high, and your compounding the 3000/5000, how high are you going to run your boost?
Yeah I think It is pretty small, I couldn't see any numbers on it. I know it spools just about as quick or quicker than my stock h1c with the lagmaster 21cm housing. It spooled really quick for how big it is. They say the 3000/5000 setup is supposed to be a quick spooling twin setup so I guess we'll see but i'm sure it will be. Plus It came with a smaller wastegated exhaust housing for the 3000 to connect to the hot pipe when it is part of the twin setup, but as a single it has a bigger non wastegate housing. I guess we'll see how much boost it'll run after I get some studs, but I'm hopin at least 50 lbs with just PODs, I wouldn't be afraid to take it up to 60 though if it will go that far and if it is studded.
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