I think it's just a matter of getting it all straight and getting the shaft out of the engine/clutch/tob...could be wrong, but i think thats how it works.

 

Sounds like you have something on a bind. Maybe try to lower the engine a little to make sure the shifter tower is clearing the floor. Then get a screwdriver or big prybar or something to help encourage the tranny away from the bellhousing. The first time I did a manual trans it took forever, this is a good learning experience. Next time will be a snap and you'll have all the parts together, last one I pulled for a clutch job I just unbolted the crossmember and put the tranny jack under it. That combo is pretty balanced and not too hard to work with. Good luck.

 

I had a granny 4 speed in a chevy do that once. I had had it in and out a few times before ( plenty of blown clutches ) but it just hung the spline in the clutch. Like said above it is in a pinch or something.

 

So, I had some success...

I spent the last few days working on and off on removing what I needed from my donor truck.

Basically, the removal process was like this:

Initially I borrowed this jack:


It fit under there, but wasn't exactly the perfect tool for the job.

Then someone lent me this jobber:


Still not perfect for the job, but a lot better. It's funny...it has those big bolts to even the load, should the bottom of the tranny be out of level. They go around the Getrag...it's just too small.

Anyway, I removed the transfer case skidplate/crossmember. That came off really nice.

I removed the driveshafts, which also came out nicey-nice.

I had a bit of a tough time with the shifter linkages for the 4wd, as they use cotter pins, are hard to get to and well, they just wouldn't cooperate.

At any rate, once the speedo sensor and a wire plug (I assume for reverse lights) was disconnected, and finally the shifter linkages were disconnected, I removed the 6 or so bolts that held the transfer case to the tranny.

A little while later:



One of the users here (and I believe a mod on one of the other forums) recommended this place for new seals:

http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/NP205.html

So, I ordered new seals...as you can see from the picture, she's a bit leaky.

Anyway, I kept working until I had cut off 10 out of the 12 bolts holding the crossmember, then when I removed the crossmember, the big rubber bushings just kind of broke into pieces. Rockauto.com had those, though, so that will hopefully go together good.

So, I got the jack under the tranny, all secured nice, and unbolted it. Here I expected something magically to happen, and the whole thing to come apart.

It didn't. It actually shut me down for a day. I could not separate the tranny from the clutch housing.

So, the next day I got up with new motivation and started hammering, prying, swaying, bumping the hell out of everything...but no go.

So, I grabbed a bunch of flat head screwdrivers and started pounding them in here and there. Finally, I got a little crack, maybe 20 minutes later it just popped free. Score!

The clutch, flywheel, etc, were all easily removed.

So, about then it started raining so I cleaned up the tools and moved inside. The tranny was definitely grimy from leaking, so I started popping covers to reseal with black RTV.

I popped off the top...


I wasn't really expecting all this stuff to be attached to it...but the forks look good to me...of course I don't really know crap, but...



The gears look good. You can see an edge worn down a little here and there, but I think it'll be fine...but again..what do I know?

So, here's how I'm working:



The jack picked nice and high, but I couldn't for the life of me figure out how to get it up on the engine stand. Oh well, jack FTW.

 

Anyway, here's my other pile of goods:


Here's a close-up of the clutch. It seems in good shape, so I was kind of planning on using it.



Anyone more experienced than I who can tell me if they'd consider it pretty beefy or worn enough to demand replacement?

Moving on, I pulled this cover:


I actually would like to replace that seal. Anyone know where to get it?



...and that's how I left it.

 

That clutch is no good. Look how little material there is left, the rivets are almost through.

Looks like the factory Sachs though. Take a picture of the backside of the pressure plate, and front side too. The sachs clutch is easy to spot because the PP is super heavy looking iron.

don't forget to get the flywheel resurfaced (napa can usually do this, or a machine shop, some auto parts stores etc....) its about $40 but it's worth it to get a nice true flat flywheel!!

I would just hit up the local parts store like Advance auto and get a stock replacement 13" clutch.

 

Oh and don't forget to replace the pilot bushing in the flywheel.

 

The only thing keeping me from getting a good clutch disk in my truck is the labor. You've got that covered so you might as well break out the visa and call south bend or valair (spelling?). You don't want to have to do it again once you start putting the power to it!

 

give us a better picture of the 3/4 shift fork. The one in the middle, it looks grooved from the long away picture I can see. Alot nicer to do now before you put it all back in!

 

The problem is the Sachs pressure plates are extinct now. So Even valair cant even sell the 1st gen performance clutch kits, because they use sachs pressure plates and valair just makes the discs. a stock replacement 13" clutch from advance auto or autozone WILL ALSO use the sachs pressure plate, you can see that in the picture on napa's sight, autozone sight or any of the other parts stores websites. maybe you can get lucky and a warehouse has one in stock in the shelf?

its a big 1st gen 13" clutch crisis right now ....easy way to put it. Sachs is jerking around not making the old pressure plates anymore which are unique because of their size, design (structual), AND the fact they use the small bolt pattern pressure plate.

I was thinking about looking into getting someone to rebuild the clutch disc and possibly rebuild the factory sachs pressure plate? The whole original sachs setup was in our 93, with 353k original on it. it just started slipping when i turned up the pump...

WHATEVER YOU DO--- do not order any 1st gen 13" clutches WITHOUT CONFIRMING ON THE PHONE that the clutch will not be put on backorder or anything like that.

What happens is, you can go on pdr diesel or whatever diesel performance vendor, order up a ceramic 400hp 13" valair 1st gen clutch (which comes with a factory sachs pressure plate)....and then a week later you get an email from PDR saying you won't get the clutch until august and that's because the whole industry is waiting on sachs to release the pressure plates again...which Dan @ valair has little hope they will anymore.....

 

Last I checked, Standard Transmission in Texas still had a couple OE clutches on the shelf, but that was a few months ago. Worth a try. I got a Sach's from them when I did my swap, they are not cheap.

 

Why would I go for one of the autozone variety clutches over, say, the $375 South Bend combo..?

 

Ok, so I did a little research and found what you mean about people having issue with the 12.25 vs the 13. I ended up going to Phoenix Friction and getting their last 13"..with the Sachs PP.

I plan on turning up the pump a bit, but that will be it...and my biggest haul will probably be pulling my boat...3k.

Sounds like OEM replacement will be fine. I can't justify getting a clutch that cost more than the entire tranny swap cost me.

 

Sounds great. having the Sachs PP is a vital part as the one from our 93 with over 350,000 miles on it didn't have a thing wrong with it.

 

So, I took a 1/2 day today at work.

Got the flywheel resurfaced.

Picked up the clutch combo.

Ripped the transfer case off the automatic.

Started ripping lines/wires/linkages off the 518.

Now, I have a question:

On the driver's side of the truck are two lines for what I assume are the tranny cooler.

On the left side of the engine are two lines that go up to a cylinder right below the exhaust manifold/turbo and then a single line leaves that and goes forward.

Can anyone tell me what this system is for and also the best way to plug it up, or at least take it out of service?

Thanks!

d