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tighter converter = better fuel mileage?

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Old Apr 3, 2011 | 11:30 AM
  #16  
crazy clem's Avatar
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From: langley bc
holding a steady speed going the long gradual hill on my commute to work ,im pulling 300 rpm less than before. thats gotta be worth something.
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Old Apr 3, 2011 | 12:28 PM
  #17  
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From: Bountiful, Utah
Originally Posted by The_Head
It does good but something is up with my transmission, it shifts up way to early.
Same problem here and I know a lot if guys that have this same problem also. I think changing the governor spring affects this greatly. I have my tv cable as tight as it will go and it still shifts way early. I can be in OD by 35mph! most the time I just manually shift my transmission since I hate the early shifts and I know its not good on the transmission. One thing I did that helped a little though was zip tied the tv cable open about an inch on the throttle linkage. This helps later your shifts a bit if your tv cable is maxed. Its cheap and easy but kinda looks goofy ha ha. Ive heard of people wiring or zip tying the cable wide open when racing, haven't tried that yet since I've been babying my truck lately.
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Old Apr 3, 2011 | 12:34 PM
  #18  
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@ 92smokin blacky: When's the last time you checked the TPS adjustment?
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Old Apr 3, 2011 | 12:46 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by lovemysan
I'm looking at changing my converter for fuel savings only. Currently the truck(92 xcab 2wd) does about 18 mpg highway empty at 65mph using a conservative technique.
There's a lot you can do yet. I got 27mpg at 65mph, and 24mpg at 75mph on my last trip. Lockup trans, 27 deg of timing, and the 3.07 geared 89 rearend. I'd bump the timing and try to find a 3.07 rearend if you want to see a big jump. Dynomite Diesel injectors are also very good on fuel economy. If I remember right, I think I picked up about 2mpg with a converter change when I still had the 727 in it.
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Old Apr 3, 2011 | 01:14 PM
  #20  
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From: Bountiful, Utah
Originally Posted by BC847
@ 92smokin blacky: When's the last time you checked the TPS adjustment?
took my TPS off since it went haywire and now have a POT controller. I try to dial it in the best I can and it still shifts in way early or it kicks in and out. It depends on how hard on the throttle I am from when it kicks into OD. Its still driving I guess so i'm trying to keep it that way for awhile
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Old Apr 3, 2011 | 01:23 PM
  #21  
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From: Thunder Bay
mine was the same. It shifted REALLY early in all situations except at WOT. That's about the only time it shifted right around the time it was supposed to.
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Old Apr 3, 2011 | 03:49 PM
  #22  
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From: McCook, Nebraska
Can't you adjust the shift points inside the transmission? I thought it was covered by the band adjustment post in the sticky.
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Old Apr 3, 2011 | 04:39 PM
  #23  
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i read a post in here at sometime where a guy put in a tighter converter.He did before and after chassis dyno runs. It showed an increase of (don`t hold me too the numbers) somewhere around 40 horsepower at the wheels.
That says alot to me about the efficiency of a tighter converter!
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Old Apr 3, 2011 | 07:57 PM
  #24  
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You can fix the early shifts by putting a spring on the TV cable.
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Old Apr 3, 2011 | 08:48 PM
  #25  
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From: Bountiful, Utah
Originally Posted by scot pa
Can't you adjust the shift points inside the transmission? I thought it was covered by the band adjustment post in the sticky.
Yes I've messed with that twice, can't remember how many turns I went now though, I think around 2. The thing is you don't know how far you should go to get it to where you like it then you put it all back together and its not much better but you have to drain and drop the pan to adjust it again. I wish it was easier accessing.
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Old Apr 3, 2011 | 08:55 PM
  #26  
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From: Smithfield, VA
Everybodies experience is different for most mods so here is mine.

I went from stock to DTT torque converter and shift kit and upgraded the flex-plate at the same time. Before DTT would sell me a converter through their rep. I filled out a questionaire on my truck. With this information they were able to build me a kit that was right on time for my application. TIMINVA was the rep. He actually let me help do some of the work in his shop although I am not sure he still does that. Anyway, the bottom line is:

I get good solid shifts when I want them.
The truck pulls large loads with ease.
The tranny has never overheated.
I get 18 mpg in a 4X4 dually IF I want too.

Would I recommend DTT to my friends........YES
Would I recommend Tim as a reputable dealer and mechanic...YES

HE did say one thing that didn't come true. He said that after about fifty thousand more miles on my old bands that I would be back replacing them. Well, that fifty thousand miles is long gone and it still burns the tires.
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Old Apr 3, 2011 | 09:15 PM
  #27  
NE frmhnd's Avatar
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From: McCook, Nebraska
Originally Posted by 92smokin blacky
Yes I've messed with that twice, can't remember how many turns I went now though, I think around 2. The thing is you don't know how far you should go to get it to where you like it then you put it all back together and its not much better but you have to drain and drop the pan to adjust it again. I wish it was easier accessing.
I was wondering if it would weaken the housing too much to drill and thread a hole in front of those two adjusting screws, and run a pipe plug into them.
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Old Apr 3, 2011 | 09:20 PM
  #28  
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From: Bountiful, Utah
Originally Posted by scot pa
I was wondering if it would weaken the housing too much to drill and thread a hole in front of those two adjusting screws, and run a pipe plug into them.
I was wondering the same, I'm sure it'd be strong enough, its like 1/4" or more cast aluminum. Probably would work if nothing was in the way. I might look into that with this 47rh...
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Old Apr 4, 2011 | 09:38 AM
  #29  
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From: extreem southern ILL
I hade all sorts of shift problems untill i made this little rod to hold the shift leaver where it needed to be to get the shift points where i wanted them.

i couldn't get enough adjustment out of my TV cable to get the job done so i made this rod, the cable will still take over under a WOT situation and it works great except for one thing, if i
m on the floor it will not kick into OD, i have to lift just a little and then it will go.

my truck shifts at 18mph, 27mph, 38mph, on a low to moderate excelleration, and down shifts in the same place.
no mater how long or light you throttle it it will not shift into 2nd untill you hit the 18mph mark.

i don't know if this is good or bad for the trans, but so far it's working good.
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Darwin
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Old Apr 4, 2011 | 03:59 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by scot pa
I was wondering if it would weaken the housing too much to drill and thread a hole in front of those two adjusting screws, and run a pipe plug into them.
I had a trans case with an access hole for externally adjusting line pressure, but it had an internally threaded tube welded into it so the plug surface was square enough to thread/seal.
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