I am just curious what the current state is of the trucks which were converted to maxi fuses. Any burn to the ground etc?

I was thinking of converting the puller first and then maybe the dually. I had the fuseable link to the pump blow once on the puller (my fault) and once on the dually (it just blew for no reason except a bad replacement earlier in life).

I have found a fuse box from a Ford Crown Victoria which has 4 bosch relay slots, 10 maxifuses, 6 standard bus blade fuses, and 1 blade type circuit breaker. It has a positive feed stud which has a sliding cover. The whole box is fully enclosed, but it comes apart. I was also thinking of using the megafuse holder from a 90's chevy tahoe/suburban which is also fully enclosed. I thought this way I have a correct place to wire add on accessories in the future and it would clean up the horrendous wiring job from the factory while making the truck easier to service.

 

Definitely on my top-10 mods ever done list (accompanied by headlights, and blower-motor, on relays).

 

I use circuit breakers.

 

this is how I replaced my fuseable links.bussmann 8 position fuse panel,anl fuseholder block and 4 awg wire.
I installed a delco 22si alternator.(that put an end to the factory alternator and regulator).ran #4 wire to the anl fuse holder with a 150 amp fuse in line to battery. from battery,#4 wire to 8 position fuse block.
in the fuse block,15 amp fuse starter relay,15 amp fuse battery hazard,20 amp fuse ignition draw off,15 amp fuse ignition switch,20 amp fuse head light switch.everything but the starter relay goes to the original under dash fuse box thru the original cowl plug.the truck hasn't burnt up yet.it's been about 6 months.don't know much about wiring,but this seems to work for me!

 

My electrical system is still good... can't say that much for my compression in #1 cylinder.

 

I need to do this. But I was having trouble with what size fuse to use per wire. Anyone know the color fusible link takes what size fuse?


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The fuseable link usually has its amp rating on itself. Otherwise it is for sure in the wiring diagrams

 

Planning to do something similar to my truck. The fusible links seem to be a poor design. Anyone know how they are repaired at the dealership? Do they cut out the old fuse links and solder in new ones?

 

I did some of mine several years ago and so far so good.

But I am a little concerned since a fusible link and a fuse are designed to function differently, but like I said - so far so good...

 

Some fuses can be smaller if you've put in heater or headlight relays.

 

These guys have tons of cool electoral parts!

http://www.delcity.net

 

Back when I worked in a GM dealership we cut the offending link out and replaced it. Those vehicles didn't really have issues with fuseable links though. The trouble with dodge is the goofy rubber splice. It seems like the links always burn back into it. It was a stupid design, which makes it a headache to service correctly. I wouldn't doubt if some dodge dealers replaced a whole section of the harness to fix it right.

The pump shutoff solenoid is also wired through a fuseable link. If the wire falls off with the key on POOF! GM runs an ignition fuse in the firewall mounted fuse box on trucks of the same vintage. Again, poor design by dodge.

There was also a mention of burn times of fuseable links vs. fuses. One should note that maxi fuses and megafuses have pretty much replaced fuseable links on new vehicles. The larger fuses have a slower burn out, so they can handle a surge of current more effectively. A 20A minifuse and a 20A maxifuse are not entirely the same.

 

That is good to know, thanks stillsmokin.

 

There are fuses designed to blow at different rates, there are slo-blo, fast acting, time delay.

Back in the era of the glass fuse you could look inside the cartridge and see the element melted and drooped to the bottom and the fuse was still working, a sign of drawing excessive current.