JBradley500

i have synthetic in the transmission. i will use it in the engine. i dont have it now because i used the cheap stuff to break in parts with so i could change it sooner without feeling guilty (im poor).

np205- what fluid does it take and how much? any recommendations on how to do it? ive never done a t-case.

d60 and d70 axles- what fluid does it take and how much? any recommendations on additives for L/S or just recommendations in general.

am i going to go broke doing this? i feel like i should do it anyway to keep things together for as long as possible

wannadiesel

I'm going to try to talk you out of it. Unless you live in the frozen North (Canada or the upper midwest U.S.) or plan to extend your oil change intervals a lot, synthetic in the engine won't pay.

It's a total waste in the front axle and transfer case, too. If the truck is a tow rig, synthetic in the rear axle is a good idea. 85W-140 would be good.

The_Head

In for info, I need to do my transfer case oil too.

IRoss

I run amsoil severe gear 80w90 in the drivetrain, and 5w in the tranny...when I changed my rear diff after 5 years it still looked and smelt perfect...I do live in the sometimes frozen north and use my 4wd 75% of the winter and love the fact that my gears are not full of thick sludge when I fire up in the morning...

Subliminal

I used Walmart stuff the last time I filled my tranny and transfer case. If you go to Amsoil.com, even if you don't buy there, they give you an outline of all the recommended fluids for your vehicle. If memory serves me right, 75w140 or somesuch is what I put in the transfer case. Maybe 90w140...I dunno...something high like that.

Strangely enough, my truck has Amsoil in everything except the tranny and transfer case right now. I might change back to cheaper stuff in the engine in the future, though...it's over $100 for an oil change with Amsoil...and quite honestly, changing my oil a little more frequently makes me feel warm and fuzzy inside.

JBradley500

i kind of agree with the engine because i should change it a lot with the soot it likes to collect. i live in illinois right now, but im from upstate ny. i like the thought of running the light weight synthetic oil in the winter. i switched to a heavier conventional in the summer.

with the axles, i kind of wondered if buying 5 gallons of a certain weight would be best. if the t-case and axles could use the same stuff it would be the best case for that. nothing wrong with having some laying around for later.

ronnie

I am using Amsoil in the engine(have bypass filter) ,tranny, and rear. Front diff and transfer case just plain old 90wt. Do a lot of long distance towing, and oil changes on the road are no fun. In Wyoming now heading back to Virginia with a boat in tow.

The bypass filter helps collect a lot of soot, and allows longer change intervals. I would be reluctant to extend oil changes beyond factory specs without it. Shell rotella is what I use on engines that I don't use synthetic in.

454 no more

I bought my last truck, 1992 w250 4x4, off a guy who worked in the oil fields of alberta. He spoke regularly with the engineers that actually make and test oil. He ran synthetic in everything based on the advice of the engineers and his own personal observation of the test results. after running the truck for a few years and seeing how clean the fluids were, I run synthetic in everything.

Bumble76

Personally I run Rotella t Synthetic for diesels with a Lucas for diesels additive. I notice my oil stays very clean for long periods. I plan on using Rotella full syn. like I use in my Kenworth in the transfercase and the front and rear ends. I used them in my 84 W350 plow truck and I have put it through alot of abuse the last few years. My $.02