i seen a post about changing the wire to a relay but the pics are expired,,, any updates with pics thanks

 

I think it was just HEADLIGHTS on relays. I don't see the benefit of the small running lights on relays unless you have added several lights. They just don't draw like the headlights do, and the factory wiring is so tiny in the first place, the wire size seems to be the weaklink anyway.

 

It is also a good idea to get the running-lights OFF of the wimpy head-light switch; not absolutely necessary, but still a good idea.

Ascertain whichever wire of the head-light plug/harness is the "cold" wire to the running-lights; meaning, the wire that feeds the running-lights and is only HOT when the head-light switch is set to turn ON the running-lights.

Cut this wire, leaving some slack to work with on both sides of the cut.

The end of this wire closest to the head-light switch becomes your RELAY TRIGGER WIRE.

The end of the cut wire that is no longer connected to the head-light switch becomes the LOAD WIRE from the relay.

You will have to splice/add lengths of wire onto these cut ends to route things to a more accessible location.

Wire it all up following one of the countless head-light relay diagrams, except instead of relaying head-lights, you are relaying running-lights.

If this is not enough information, fire away with more questions.

 

It's a good idea to run the trailer harness on relays but there's no need to relay the running lights or taillights unless you have added a whole boatload of chicken lights.

 

I'm thinking of getting one of those power distribution boxes for my trailer. Even though I have the trailer decked out in LEDs. And dedicating the inside 2 of my 4 lights for brakelights instead of stop/turn.