I'll be swapping a VE pump tomorrow,

Any tips are greatly appreciated!

I have the template to make round the 13mm wrench,
and i can figure out the rest

just how do i pull the gear off? If i need to pull it off, does a timing gear puller for a p-pump work? is there a timing pin?

thanks!

 

im not sure if you have to use a special puller, my brother and i used one from autozone, like steering wheel puller and it worked fine, also make sure you lock the pump (if you know what i mean) it keeps it from turning when out of the truck. you first find tdc and push the timing pin in and then there is a bolt on the side of the pump that you tighten and it locks the pump. i don't remeber exactly how you do it, hopefully someone else will help. hope this helps.

jason

 

well i changed it, but the truck wont start up, ive cranked loooooong!

theres fuel at each inj line, and it smokes blue/white while starting, but wont even sound like it'll start running!

can there be a timing issue? the gear went on harder then it went off (with my homemade puller

and i didnt pin the pump on TDC, since i got no reply before!

 

Sounds like the timing is too retarded. Push it towards the head to advance it.

Sounds like you destroyed the key when you put the gear on. The gear should have went on easy all the way, then you put the nut on and tighten it up.

Pump is keyed so I wouldn't worry about that.

 

I would still worry about that , I assume when he swapped pumps from one truck to the other , he swapped gears , or probably even took the timing cover off , that pump could be turned just about anywhere.

If both truck(s) were turned to #1 TDC , and the pumps pinned , it would have been a straight swap , I see no mention of even putting the truck(s) on TDC.

 

Doesn't matter on a 1st gen, JKM. The pump and gear are keyed. If you put the key back it the slot you are close, you will just have to move the pump around to get it running right.

I'm with Mike, I think 12 valve didn't get the key lined up right.

 

i ligned it up, but it probably didnt line up exactly with the slot...

can the key fall out?
I know i couldnt put the pump shaft nut on as far as it was before... before the shaft was sticking out, now its even and i tightened it a lot more then it was...

It aint my truck, i got it like this, and lots of people have had the truck in the shop... i see the front cover of the motor has been off, could the gear not be turned right? is there a marke somewhere? i know if the gear whoul be off, only one tooth, the timing would be wrong...

BTW, i tried marked timing, retarded timing, and advanced timing, motor wont even give a shot!

I really think the key went out of the slot of the pump shaft, so ill check tomorrow, and i'll have to redo everything again,

if the key would have fallen into the timing cover, should i try to get it out? or can it fall down and call it good?

thanks!

 

You should take the cover off and retrieve the key.

 

Pull the cover,make sure of the gear timing and yes retrieve the key by all means,it may end up in the gears and make a big mess. I had this same problem when i put a used pump on my truck and it turned out to be the governor weights were stuck inside the pump. I took the top off the pump and worked the weights a few times while spraying WD40 on them and it worked fine after that.

 

I would know, first time I did one I didn't get the gear home all the way and started tightening it up with the nut and heard a loud bang as it broke the key in half. Half the key was in the key way and the other half landed down by the vacuum pump which I removed to pull the key out.

The gear should sit all the way on the taper without having to force it, if it won't then the key isn't lined up or it has been pushed back in the key way.

 

i really think thats my problem,

rlyons, thanks for the pic, a pic is worth a thousand words, so to me it looks like the mark has to be lined up with the "E" right?
Also, did the pump fuel while cranking with stuck gov weights? am i right, the gov weights are the little loose pieces around the shaft, right under the throttle assembly?

BTW, if that should be the problem, i can change out this pump, at the junkyard, if it shouldnt work...

 

Put the timming on letter C!! Much better the higher the better.

 

Yes it did pump fuel but just not enough I guess, they are the weights around the shaft. All I did was move them a few times and sprayed them with WD40 and they freed right up.

 

Truck starts and runs now! YEHAW!!!!!

the key got destroyed and it wasn lined with the slot, so we aligned it, advanced the timing all the way.... and it works great now,

Oh and we also installed the grid heaters with a momentary switch!


Thanks for all your help, The truck's gone now, so no more bothering...

oh btw, he said if he'd need more power he'd come back...

i grinded the fuel pin a bit, and took out the plastic ring on it, but im not sure if it helps any if i havent touched the fuel screw yet... does it?

thanks again!

 

yes it will still add more fuel but only as he builds boost not low end.