I guess this will be my official thread for the new toys I bought.

I managed to sneak home on the weekend and pick the parts up and have a look at them. But only long enough to admire them and get teased. I'm back out of town, and won't be home for 2 weeks...

Anyway...

I must say, the aurora 4000 charger is NOT a reboxed mildly worked over charger. The compressor is the same dimensions as an s364 (inducer - 64.5mm, exducer - 91.44mm) but it's very clearly a billet wheel or something of the sort. It's not a BW cast wheel, and I think that's all the BW wheel ever was. The turbine wheel is something very strange too as I have never seen or heard of or read anywhere with a wheel that is listed with it's dimensions. It is exactly what the ATS site lists it as. 70/76.2. It's an odd size, that's for sure. The exhaust housing is the BW .85 twin scroll, non-wastegated housing cut for the turbine wheel that ATS uses. It should be a good housing. And I have high hopes for this charger. I hope spool isn't an issue. I don't think I will have enough fuel for the air this charger can push.

I don't even think the compressor housing is a BW product. It looks almost like an ATS casting as it's shape isn't quite right to be a BW. I won't be home for 2 weeks but when I do I'll post pictures and all that fun stuff. Maybe even before and after videos.

The other goodies are 5x.016 injectors (145* spray), fluidampr, chromoly pushrods, turbo sock and new second gen lift pump.

I have a line on a ported and polished, oringed head with billet retainers and keepers with HD springs for a good price. If it gets confirmed that work has another rollout in January I'll be forking the cash for the head too.

At this rate I'm going to have more motor than the lowly VE can handle... might have to swap it for the 180hp ppump I have... Now that would be a travesty. I have other plans for that ppump though...



pics to come... in 2 weeks... and maybe videos too...

 

I dunno. It's been my experience those valve-springs, push-rods, Fluidampr, etc go a long way in taking advantage of the VE's upper rpm range.

I figure precision, has a subtle but strong impact in getting the most out of what you've got. A few more hp/ftlbs here and there along the power curve has never hurt anyone that I know of.

Same goes for the pee-pump engine.

 

Oh I agree 100%

What I mean is, if I benched my ppump, put 024 DVs in, and re-used these 5x.016 tips in some second gen bodies and tuned it, I could be well in to the 600s for hp for the same amount of effort, and the motor would be ok with it.

then again, there is something unique about getting good power out of a VE.
And that is something I hope these parts and some patience in tuning will provide because I'm not currently satisfied with how things are running right now. The bouncing boost needle (albeit annoying, proves something else is amiss to me), lousy surging issues and hazing and smoking are not my favourite things.

 

well I'm finally done work until the new year. Things got delayed a week, but I am finally done so hopefully this week I'll spend some time on the truck. I dropped the injectors off at the shop today for the tips to be swapped into the core injector bodies I had. I'll be picking them up tomorrow.

I did swap in the new lift pump and did the front brakes. Next on the list is the rear brakes and the fluidampr before I do the video of the before and after on the turbo.

When I did the lift pump I discovered one of the 2 studs for the lift pump had broken off in the block so as it sits right now I have only one stud holding the lift pump on. It doesn't leak believe it or not BUT I need a shop to fix it. I tried drilling the stud and removing it but the metal is hardened and I can't drill it. The bits either end up breaking or just getting completely dull almost instantly... anyway.

More to come soon. Maybe I'll muster the will to go out there tonight and tinker a little bit.

Got a couple toys for the garage too. 60 gallon single stage Craftsman professional air compressor and the professional 1/2" impact as well. Got the compressor at 25% off soo... Anyway so that's on the list to get up and running too. Can't believe I waited so long to get an air compressor...

 

Did you try left handed bits to get the stud/bolt?

Looking forward to the 4k review.

 

yeah i have some lefty easy outs but in order for them to work i have to drill into the stud so the left handed things can grab and turn the stud out. I just couldnt drill into the stud with any real luck. it would dull each bit i tried within a mere turn or 2.

I have some measurements of the wheels of the a4k I'm uploading right now. I'll post them when I get them on photo bucket.

I was going to do my harmonic balancer but I want to at least do my before video of the turbo before I swap balancers because I otherwise won't have a tach reading for you folks to base anything off of. I don't think the fluidampr's tach relocation kit is going to work because I am running the destroked ford cummins conversion tach kit.

 

I think he means a left handed drill bit, they work great. I got a few of the cobalt steel ones from mcmaster carr(amazing site and very fast shipping) they cut very well, just a slow rotation will peal the material away. we used them to drill out a metric 12.9 bolt that was work hardened from the bolt breaking and from failed attempts with crappy drill bits, these bits chewed right through it. Often the reverse drilling is enough to back the bolt out without using an easy out.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-drill-bits/=kgbxy2

 

the turbo itself

 

compressor inducer



exducer



or...

 

turbine inducer



turbine exducer



And that is all packaged inside a non-gated .85 t3 exhaust housing. 6 bolt outlet with a custom made hx40 flange.

 

I don't trust the calipers to be perfect, nor are my measuring methods. They are just cheap mastercraft ones and I'm no rocket scientist, but you get the idea. It appears to be a 64/70/.85 turbo. the compressor wheel looks like a billet wheel as you can tell by the machine marks on it. the exhaust wheel is some sort of custom creation too as BW doesn't make a wheel with those dimensions.

 

Do you have a reason for the t3, or do they not offer a t4?

Do you have a drive pressure gauge?

 

Do they HAVE to paint everything purple??

 

I'm not sure if they offer a t4 housing or not. I don't think so? I know they offer the .76 housing but it's a single scroll and I'm pretty sure a t3. They also offer the 1.0 housing but I don't know anything about it.

And the purple really doesn't look that bad in person. It's a quality paint. I guess for those that don't want it you can easily enough throw some rattle can over it.

Sent from my Galaxy SIII via tapatalk

 

Also, I don't know about most of bw's t4 housings but I know the .83 twin scroll non gated t4 housing has t3 volutes so it's completely pointless getting that t4 housing.

Sent from my Galaxy SIII via tapatalk