Stumped On Cruise Control
I have been going around on this for some time now: First the post wore thru on the plate where the cc cable catches the throttle plate to turn it. I fixed that temporarily with small wire that held the CC cable onto the stub on the post. That worked but limited the plate rotation a bit. I improved that by removing the plate and drilling the post for a steel 1/8" pop rivet and washer that holds the cc cable slide connector to the post with enough play to still slide. Didn't work, but I found that the brake light fuse had fried. AHA! I thought, ... road tested in high hopes of cc , ... wrong! I have good vacuum, brake lights work, connections all sound, HVAC doors all respond to vacuum in system. now what? I have another long trip coming up and don't wanna hafta push that pedal the whole way. Ideas? [duhhh]
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Does everything else work like the ac the horn the charging system and the speedometer?
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Originally Posted by Onemoparnut
(Post 3006314)
Does everything else work like the ac the horn the charging system and the speedometer?
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Assuming you have solved your mechanical problems with the cruise control the repair manual says; electrical test at servo
1. Turn the ignition switch to on position. 2. Push speed control switch to on position. 3. Connect the negative lead of a voltmeter to a good chassis ground near the servo. 4. Disconnect the four-way connector going to the servo. The blue wire with the red tracer should read approximately battery voltage. If not, check for loose connections, brake switch adjustment or, repair the main harness as necessary. 5. Connect a jumper wire between the male and female terminals of the blue wire with red tracer. ( note I am reading this from the service manual and not looking at it on my truck was apparently what they want you to do is supply electricity to the servo) the other three male terminals from this road should show battery voltage if not replaces servo. 6. Turn the ignition off. Using an ohm meter, connect one lead to a good body ground. Touch the other lead to the black (BK) or terminal in the four-way connector of the main harness. The media should show continuity. If not repaired or ground circuit. If this is not find your problem let me know and I can go on down the list. FYI, fuse number one supplies to cruise control, it is a two amp fuse.Good luck, Mike. |
I had a lot of problems when my cruise control but it was cutting in and out I finally traced it down to bad switch on the steering wheel. Apparently the little circuit board had cracked or something. Again good luck, Mike.
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Many thanks Santaclaus, ... I'll grab my digital multimeter and have at it today. These steps are all things I haven't tried, ... will report back [guitar]
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Originally Posted by Santaclaus
(Post 3006497)
Assuming you have solved your mechanical problems with the cruise control the repair manual says; electrical test at servo
1. Turn the ignition switch to on position. 2. Push speed control switch to on position. 3. Connect the negative lead of a voltmeter to a good chassis ground near the servo. 4. Disconnect the four-way connector going to the servo. The blue wire with the red tracer should read approximately battery voltage. If not, check for loose connections, brake switch adjustment or, repair the main harness as necessary. 5. Connect a jumper wire between the male and female terminals of the blue wire with red tracer. ( note I am reading this from the service manual and not looking at it on my truck was apparently what they want you to do is supply electricity to the servo) the other three male terminals from this road should show battery voltage if not replaces servo. 6. Turn the ignition off. Using an ohm meter, connect one lead to a good body ground. Touch the other lead to the black (BK) or terminal in the four-way connector of the main harness. The media should show continuity. If not repaired or ground circuit. If this is not find your problem let me know and I can go on down the list. FYI, fuse number one supplies to cruise control, it is a two amp fuse.Good luck, Mike. |
Hey Mike, .... where'd you get that test sequence? Way better than my Haynes manual which has check-the-fuse and check-the-brake-light. In the event that you actually typed it all into text I add manifold thanks, .... [guitar]
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I am reading the text out of the Dodge manual using NaturallySpeaking, to do the typing. At my typing speed this would take me two months. That also accounts for some of the screw ups in the post.
The next section; electrical test that powertrain control module. 1. Unplug 60 way connector for powertrain control module located on the left fender. 2. Connect negative lead of old mayor to the ground. 3. The following test, the ignition switch must be in the on position. ( when you unplug the control module turn it so you're looking at the business end the top row are numbered 1 through 20, the next row 21 through 40, the next row 41 through 60, best I can tell you without a picture ) refer to figure for control terminal locations. Touched a positive lead of the voltmeter to the terminal in cavity number 33. With the speed control switch in the off position, the voltmeter should read 0 V. With the speed control switch in the on position, the voltmeter should read battery voltage. If not fix it. 4. Touch the positive lead of the voltmeter to the turmoil in the cavity number 53. As in step three, the voltmeter should read 0 V with the switch in the off position and battery voltage with the switch in the on position. 5. Touched a positive lead of the voltmeter to the terminal in the cavity number 48. With the speed control switch in the off position the voltmeter should read 0 V. The switch and on position the voltmeter should read battery voltage. Pressing the set button should cause the voltmeter to change from battery voltage to 0 V for as long as the switch is hailed. If not perform the speed control switch test. If the switch is not at fault, and then check the main harness and repair as necessary. 6. Touch the positive lead of the voltmeter to the terminal in cavity number 50. The voltmeter should read 0 V with the speed control switch in either the off or on position. With switch in either resume or set position, the voltmeter should read battery voltage. If not performed a speed control switch test. 7. Touch the positive lead of the voltmeter to the terminal in cavity number 49. Should read 0 V with the switch off. With the switch on, should read battery voltage. The voltmeter will continue to read battery voltage when either the set or resume switch is pressed. If not perform speed control switch test. 8. Turnkey off. Use in all major, connect lead to good body ground and touch the other lead to the terminal in cavity number 29. With the break pedal released, the meter should show continuity. When the pedal is depressed the meter should show open circuit. The next section is speed control switch test if this doesn't work for you. Good luck, Mike. |
Hey thanks, ... some more real good stuff to do. These areas never gave problems before so I'm breaking new ground here so to speak. I weather-proof all these connectors when finished so they won't get squirelly like my VSS connector did with water getting in. The weather seals after a certain point do a good job of keeping water in on the contacts. Anyhow back in a few hours, ... :cool:
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Originally Posted by Santaclaus
(Post 3006905)
I am reading the text out of the Dodge manual using NaturallySpeaking, to do the typing. At my typing speed this would take me two months. That also accounts for some of the screw ups in the post.
The next section; electrical test that powertrain control module. 1. Unplug 60 way connector for powertrain control module located on the left fender. 2. Connect negative lead of old mayor to the ground. 3. The following test, the ignition switch must be in the on position. ( when you unplug the control module turn it so you're looking at the business end the top row are numbered 1 through 20, the next row 21 through 40, the next row 41 through 60, best I can tell you without a picture ) refer to figure for control terminal locations. Touched a positive lead of the voltmeter to the terminal in cavity number 33. With the speed control switch in the off position, the voltmeter should read 0 V. With the speed control switch in the on position, the voltmeter should read battery voltage. If not fix it. 4. Touch the positive lead of the voltmeter to the turmoil in the cavity number 53. As in step three, the voltmeter should read 0 V with the switch in the off position and battery voltage with the switch in the on position. 5. Touched a positive lead of the voltmeter to the terminal in the cavity number 48. With the speed control switch in the off position the voltmeter should read 0 V. The switch and on position the voltmeter should read battery voltage. Pressing the set button should cause the voltmeter to change from battery voltage to 0 V for as long as the switch is hailed. If not perform the speed control switch test. If the switch is not at fault, and then check the main harness and repair as necessary. 6. Touch the positive lead of the voltmeter to the terminal in cavity number 50. The voltmeter should read 0 V with the speed control switch in either the off or on position. With switch in either resume or set position, the voltmeter should read battery voltage. If not performed a speed control switch test. 7. Touch the positive lead of the voltmeter to the terminal in cavity number 49. Should read 0 V with the switch off. With the switch on, should read battery voltage. The voltmeter will continue to read battery voltage when either the set or resume switch is pressed. If not perform speed control switch test. 8. Turnkey off. Use in all major, connect lead to good body ground and touch the other lead to the terminal in cavity number 29. With the break pedal released, the meter should show continuity. When the pedal is depressed the meter should show open circuit. The next section is speed control switch test if this doesn't work for you. Good luck, Mike. I sourced out a FSM CD online but the site had problems with my Canadian address. I'll stay on that and get something here so I won't have to keep bothering people with real FSMs. Haynes is OK for specs, torques and such, but is too superficial for this type of procedure. |
I had an intermittent problem once that I found was a bad connection where the clock spring plugs into the column harness.
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Originally Posted by Onemoparnut
(Post 3007143)
I had an intermittent problem once that I found was a bad connection where the clock spring plugs into the column harness.
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There is also the plug from the cruise buttons under the horn button. Did you look in the sticky for how to test the cruise buttons?
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Just found the switch pin connector chart thanks, way down on bottom of the Electrical section. Will scribble out that chart and check it out while I'm in there after the clockspring connections. There were enough inconsistencies in the PCM block terminal tests to suspect some circuit resistance. They've worked fine for nearly 20 years so anything's possible in this area. Later
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I do believe I've found the problem: the set switch was doubtful in the PCM block terminal tests, and came up bad on the switch tests a la sticky. New switch ordered and will be in Friday. Time to change out a front wheel bearing on my Echo meanwhile, ... [guitar]
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Cool I am glad you found it.
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the switch on the steering wheel? where did you get it from?
Because I cannot get 12v anywhere at the servo under the hood, with the switch on....but the letters are worn off the switch like it's been used alot LOL |
clock springs are a bad design and are prone to failure. When I worked at a dealership, we were small and we still stocked 20 or so assorted clock springs
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Originally Posted by Crossy's son
(Post 3007669)
the switch on the steering wheel? where did you get it from?
Because I cannot get 12v anywhere at the servo under the hood, with the switch on....but the letters are worn off the switch like it's been used alot LOL |
I think my problem is the on switch though.
as i have no 12v to the servo |
Originally Posted by Crossy's son
(Post 3007987)
I think my problem is the on switch though.
as i have no 12v to the servo |
PS: if you cfm it's the on-off switch let me know. My problem is the set-res switch so I could ship you my switch which would solder right in to replace yours. The replacement part is both switches with the 4-conductor block terminal.
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I'm trying to find out right now. I did the test today on the switches, and got some bad results. but not sure what they mean.
Thinking about replacing both, my uncle works at a dodge dealer i could get the kit at cost. Did you get the part number on the cruise switches yet? |
The problem is the set/reset switch. darnit
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Never mind it was on the switch.
the part number for both switches is 56003622 ....i ordered them from moparpartsamerica.com - about $46 shipped |
Well the new switch set didn't fix the CC, ... meanwhile I was looking at the servo: the end of the cable seems real loose, and when I move the end of the cable from its furthest forward point back and forth there's a tiny click in the servo unit where the diaphragm is , ... does that happen in any systems that work?
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I'm having a bit of trouble interpreting: "Connect negative lead of old mayor to ground." I can't find a negative lead on any of our town's old mayors.'
Originally Posted by Santaclaus
(Post 3006905)
I am reading the text out of the Dodge manual using NaturallySpeaking, to do the typing. At my typing speed this would take me two months. That also accounts for some of the screw ups in the post.
The next section; electrical test that powertrain control module. 1. Unplug 60 way connector for powertrain control module located on the left fender. 2. Connect negative lead of old mayor to the ground. 3. The following test, the ignition switch must be in the on position. ( when you unplug the control module turn it so you're looking at the business end the top row are numbered 1 through 20, the next row 21 through 40, the next row 41 through 60, best I can tell you without a picture ) refer to figure for control terminal locations. Touched a positive lead of the voltmeter to the terminal in cavity number 33. With the speed control switch in the off position, the voltmeter should read 0 V. With the speed control switch in the on position, the voltmeter should read battery voltage. If not fix it. 4. Touch the positive lead of the voltmeter to the turmoil in the cavity number 53. As in step three, the voltmeter should read 0 V with the switch in the off position and battery voltage with the switch in the on position. 5. Touched a positive lead of the voltmeter to the terminal in the cavity number 48. With the speed control switch in the off position the voltmeter should read 0 V. The switch and on position the voltmeter should read battery voltage. Pressing the set button should cause the voltmeter to change from battery voltage to 0 V for as long as the switch is hailed. If not perform the speed control switch test. If the switch is not at fault, and then check the main harness and repair as necessary. 6. Touch the positive lead of the voltmeter to the terminal in cavity number 50. The voltmeter should read 0 V with the speed control switch in either the off or on position. With switch in either resume or set position, the voltmeter should read battery voltage. If not performed a speed control switch test. 7. Touch the positive lead of the voltmeter to the terminal in cavity number 49. Should read 0 V with the switch off. With the switch on, should read battery voltage. The voltmeter will continue to read battery voltage when either the set or resume switch is pressed. If not perform speed control switch test. 8. Turnkey off. Use in all major, connect lead to good body ground and touch the other lead to the terminal in cavity number 29. With the break pedal released, the meter should show continuity. When the pedal is depressed the meter should show open circuit. The next section is speed control switch test if this doesn't work for you. Good luck, Mike. |
Mine was also cutting in and out so I replaced my switches, Now it doesn't work at all.[duhhh]
Originally Posted by Santaclaus
(Post 3006498)
I had a lot of problems when my cruise control but it was cutting in and out I finally traced it down to bad switch on the steering wheel. Apparently the little circuit board had cracked or something. Again good luck, Mike.
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Replace the awitches and it didn't work. Put a hose clamp on the brake switch so it would stay in position and it worked....for two months... and now it doesn't work again.
Clockspring is good Fuse is good Switches are new brake switch is fully depressed vacuum is good everything the ECU controls is working WHAT NOW* |
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