Monty

When you say duct tape the connections, in what way did you duct tape them?

If you are having problems with the clamp retaining its original tension, a new set is needed.

Dirty air can be sucked up into the engine very easily due to an untightened clamp or a bad hose.

thumbs

No, No. I clamped the joints and the clamps seemed fine. The connection seemed fine. I just duct taped them to see if there was a leak. I figured if there was a leak with the clamp the tape would stop it. This would tell me the joints were leaking. No I used the clamps and used the tape as a way to see if that was where the thing was leaking. It wasn't, the boost was the same.

thumbs

I checked the brass fitthing to the block and the diapraghm head bolt. Nope. Still the same psi. Ok lets assume that the system is tight. Lets just say that when the new pump was put in it was really detuned. Tell ya the truth the truck is runnin the way it always has except now I have the gauges and see the lack of boost. What would you say is the next step in the bomb sequence? Should I turn up the pump or go to the turbo housing? I want the truck to pull. I have a 12k fifth wheel and need more ponies. I have the info on "Turning up hte pre 94 Ram diesel injector pump". Is there anything else I should do while there?

Monty

Its really up too you. Since you have the proper instrumentation now, you can either go with the pump right now or go with the 16 first. I would suggest going with one first and then the other. That way you can get a baseline of each component. Be sure and make a log of your stock readings and then a log of your readings when you add another component. I think alot of guys run into the problem of adding 2 or more things at once and not really knowing how just one of those effects the truck.

When I switched to the 16 housing, I noticed that the truck was alot easier to drive. It held its speed easier running down the road. Spool up was alot better but, the icing on the cake for me was the truck being able to maintain its speed.

If you want to start with the pump before you go with the 16, if it were me, I would take the starwheel in say 10-15 clicks, the eccentric to its farthest travel (deepest setting for the fuel pin allowing it to come out the farthest) after that use your smoke screw as a launch tune (first 60ft. of travel of the truck) or the fine adjustment for the smoke. When you get a good idea of how the truck responds to these, then start on the fuel screw.

Like I said, its really up to the driver on what he wants to do first.

On a side note, have you checked the first intercooler boot coming off of the turbo, mine had a slight crack in it where it had been rubbing on the a/c line. Every truck I have looked at has this problem all the way up to 24v's some more pronounced then others. If everything from there seems in check, a possible intercooler leakdown test can be performed. Other than that, I woudl chalk it up to the settings that came from the shop in which the pump was built.

thumbs

That's why I taped the first to joints after the turbo and before the intercooler. I figure now there are no leaks there. Of course I will check again. What is the easyest way to check the intercooler for leaks? Do I have to take it off and pressurize it and put soapy water all over to check for leaks? My gut instinct is the way the thing was set up from the factory.

I really appreciate all the help you and others are givein me. This diesel stuff is pretty new. I have owned the truck since new and it has always beged for more power but now with towing it's a must. Even my wife wants me to wake up the ole girl. (the truck that is)LOL