a week ago i made this post about my issues i was having after cleaning the slides. I have since replaced driver side brake hose and now i have a very poor pedal. I also replaced the line going from the hose to the front proportioning valve. Now The pedal never gets hard when pumping.l I blead the system very well and i am not getting any air out of anything.

i asked in the above thread about bleeding the front calipers by the hose (the bleeder screw broke off) and i got mixed replies about this. I have not replaced the caliper so i am bleeding by means of the hose. Could this be my problem? is the air in the caliper and not going out of the hose. Also it seams as though i am not getting as much fluid coming out of the front as am the rear when bleeding.

I will ramble on a little more. At first it first pulled to the right really hard. After the truck sat for a few days and then when i took it over to my shop (about 4 miles) it started to pull hard to the left like the left caliper was seized. It did not do this on the initial ride home.

what should i try next? I just can't see how anything could have broke when all i did was take the calipers apart to re lube them

 

Yes you need to fIx that bleeder. Ans take the calipers off when bleeding. Sometimes air pockets get stuck and can't get out when the caliper is mounted. Are you bleeding at the RWAL valve too?

What kind of master cylinder are you running? I had a new AUTO ZONE $18 master that was total junk. I got one from NAPA and haven't had any problems since. I had the same issue as you but it was the back giving me problems

I hope this helps

 

yes i blead the RWAL valve. so take the calipers off and hold them there and then blead them? It is the stock master cylinder as far as i know i never replaced it.

 

I am not trying to sound condescending but did you hang the calpiers off the hose or did you support them in such a way as to not stress the brake hose? It is possible to break the brake hose internally and cause problems like you describe. Also, fix the bleeder. If you can't get all the air out you will always have spongey brakes.

 

Yes take them off and move them around. Bleed them in different positions. I'd buy a new QUALITY master cylinder and try that. Its rare for a proportioning valve to go bad. I thought the same thing when my master was bad. FIX THAT BLEEDER

 

i replaced the hose that might have been damaged and i did not let them hang. been there done that. i tired to be careful with them and prevent bad stuff from happening but it turned out

 

the bleeder is broken off flush with the caliper and i tried an reverse drill bit with no luck. Looks like i will need to get a new caliper. Where would you suggest getting a quality master cylinder?? around here advanced auto and NAPA both carry the same junk Napa just charges more.

 

The key is buying a NEW master and not a remanned. The one I got was made in italy but its been great for the past year. I like centric brake parts

 

With the caliper off, you can also push the piston in with the brake line loosened and maybe get some more air out, specially if you can get the line above the caliper. This was a chronic problem with the old VW Diesels we used to run and having a working bleed nipple was pure luxury, ...

 

Try adjusting the rod behind the master if you have not already. I beat myself up for 2 weeks over everything your talking about and that was it in the end. Those one man bleeders make things a little easier too.

 

I've seen a few peopel mention this. Could you be a little more discriptive. Perhaps some pics?

 

its stupid simple. unbolt the master from the brake booster. you will see a rod, the rod pushes into the master. it has threads and a lock nut. loosen the nut and thread the rod out. just make sure you can bolt it back up without it applying any pressure.

 

Don't mess with that rod, if it worked before it's fine. Sounds to me like u have air in the master cylinder. Take the master cylinder off put it in a vise, fill it up then take a long screw driver an push the piston inside the master cylinder all the way to the internal stop and before u release it use ur fingers to make a seal where the brake lines go into master so it won't suck air back into it. Just keep doing this until u don't see any more air coming out of it. Then put it back on the truck an make sure u don't let the fluid leak out after ur done cause air will get back into it. And u need to replace the caliper to

 

I had my master off and on more than a few time bench bleeding it. even got a brand new master. I myself thought the same thing that I would never need to adjust that rod. It did not take much from what I remember. I over did it the first time and the brakes were dragging with no pressure on the pedal. Its easy to do you don't even have to disconect the lines. there is a jam nut and a splined part you can grab with some vise grips. I want to say moving the rod 1/8 inch made all the difference in the world. one of the smoking guns in all of my work should have been the pedal barely pumped any fluid out of the bleeders.

 

Oh ok I was under the impression that he was still using the original master cylinder, yea if he's bought a new one then yea that rod has to be adjusted to match the new master. I just seen where he said that he didn't have any pedal an I figured it was air in the master. Untill he gets a new caliper it will never be right no matter what he does so that should be the first thing on his list.