REDLEG,
Your problem sounds EXACTLY like mine! The fuel filter I replaced yesterday was only half full at a when I took it off.
I'm going to replace the fuel lines from the tank to the transfer pump, check the shutoff solenoid wiring to make sure I didn't disconnect something accidentally, and maybe crack the transfer pump-to-injector pump line and try pumping out any air.
I'll let you know what I find.
Thanks!

 

Should be a bleeder on top of the fuel filter mount, I wouldn't mess with the steel lines unless they have already been tinkered with or until everything else is ruled out.

 

In putting in my Old Smokey Fuel Pin last night. I noticed that my bleed off line?? that goes from the diaphram that usually needs to be loosened a little to swing the diaphram out of the way was loose. It must of been that way since the last time working on it many months ago. Tightened that up a few turns. I don't think I was getting air in the line though because of it but something to check. It is post filter though so I don't think it is your problem.

Old smokey fuel pin jumped my boost from 37 lbs to 42 lbs for 15 minutes worth of work time. Well worth the $$.

 

Is the fuel filter bleeder the 10mm bolt threaded into a banjo fitting holding the fuel line to the casting just above filter?

If so, that had to come off when the line got buggered removing a previously incorrectly threaded brass fitting connecting the fuel line to the injection pump.

 

Yep, that's the bleeder. Do you have a solid banjo bolt in there now? You can get pretty much the same effect by loosening the banjo bolt, but the copper washers will need to be replaced more often.

 

Thanks, Dave. There was fuel there when I took it off to replace the line that was damaged. There was a banjo bolt there with the bleeder threaded into that.

Is there any possible way I could have installed the t-pump with the lever UNDERNEATH the cam so it wouldn't pump fuel?

Grasping at straws here and don't want to have the thing towed to a shop. That would be humiliating!

The local Dodge shop lost their diesel tech, and the other shops selling and servicing diesels all told me they don't work on Dodges with the Cummins. Unbelievable!

 

I don't think you can put the lift pump in wrong.

I think at this point you should pressurize the tank (use an air nozzle with a shop rag wrapped around it in the filler neck - you don't want a lot of pressure in the tank, just 5 psi or so, don't want to split the tank). Look for leaks, also see if the truck will fire up with the tank pressurized.

 

Got her fixed!!!!!!!

Wannadiesel was right (don't wanna give him a big head though!!!!).

I was getting a ton of air in the fuel system. After I cracked the injector lines and got her running. I shut her off, then loosend the 10mm bleeder screw on the injector pump metal supply line. It had a ton of air in it, and the fuel that came out was very very foamy.

So I unhooked the supply line from the tank, hooked up a clear line and ran it to a 5 gal can full of fuel sitting under the truck. Went through the whole bleeding process again. Got her fired back up and let her run for a while. Then shut her back off and waited. The lift pump held the fuel up in the line and when I hit the key, she started right up.

I then pulled the fuel tank (fun!!) Pulled the pickup assembly out and started checking everything. Well, I ended up by totally pulling the pickup assembly apart. I even replaced the neopreme supply line that connects to the screen. However, before I put the screen back on I plugged the end of the supply line then began sucking through the supply line inlet on top of the assembly to create a vaccum. When I went easy the inlet wouldn't hold vaccum. When I went hard it would hold vaccum. I removed the 3 plate screws on the bottom of the assembly top and saw that there were some O rings that sealed the supply and return line bracket to the assembly top. I replaced the supply line O ring put her back together, it held vaccum. I put the fuel tank back in and replaced the fuel lines from the tank to the lift pump just to make sure.

I primed and bled everything, and it fired right up and has been running fine.
I think the whole problem was a 10 cent O ring, because the fuel lines looked ok. Thanks for everyones suggestions.

PS, Denis might be something to look at. Larry......

 

Congrats! I got mine running late yesterday afternoon when I cracked the #2, 4 and 6 injectors and turned it over a couple of times before tightening. Fired right up!

 

So I am having starting problems too.

My truck is loosing prime overnight, in fact it has to be a long term, greater than about 12 hours, to prevent the restart.

Always starts up fine after priming with the manual lever on the lift pump.

Runs fine when its running.

Seems to be more common with lower levels in the tank.

In the last couple of weeks, it has been getting much more common, almost daily. Might be trending with the heat in california now.

The other thing i have noticed is that the tank is routinely getting pressureized.

I think my vent valve may be malfunctioning, but do you guys think the tank should be getting pressurized on its own from driving around/heat?

I have pushed an air nozzle into the tank, with a rag, an i know i got some good pressure in there, but i could not find any evidence of a leak externally.

After searching around on this site,(which i am new to, and is really good by the way) I am leaning on the concept that the root cause is a cracked fuel return line in the tank. But i want to get some feedback before I drop the tank or raise the bed.

What do you guys think?

Still has the origional diaphram lift pump at 171Kmi... could be bad seals on the check valves???

Do injectors ever leak fuel in exchange for air in the system?

What does the return line system look like? is it just the return manifold from all the injectors? or is there also a return line from the injection pump burried in there somewhere?

Thanks,

 

I think you need a vented cap.

Edwin