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Spun bearings

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Old Jul 1, 2012 | 09:05 PM
  #1  
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Spun bearings

Did a search. Search spoke of spun bearings but no mention of how this issue was remedied/repaired/prevented. My truck is a 93 D350 with almost 250,000 miles and a Getrag. The tag says I have 3.54 gears, I believe it. I bought this truck from the original owner about 2 years ago. It always had a slight vibe during decel. I have done everything, new front brakes, rotors. Moog ball joints, 6 new tires, 3 new u joints, new carrier bearing, new tranny, new tranny mount, etc. I basically tried it all. It never got better but seamed to get worse after the ball joints. I rotated the tires, while I did this I jacked up the rearend and ran it. I noticed the rear wheels seamed to wobble. I was thinking bent axles but ruled this out because it's a driver not a worker, there's no way I damaged the axles with what I've don't to the truck. I started to consider wheel bearings. I tore the rear down. I found spun carrier bearings and some wore axle bearings. My long winded question is this, how is everyone fixing the spun bearing problem? I'm thinking shim stock under the cap or machine the cap? What about where the race ate into the housing? Shim? What are your thoughts? Thanks as usual!
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Old Jul 1, 2012 | 09:33 PM
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I would start looking for a whole new axle, I'm sure someone out there can fix a housing but after you have it machined and welded and machined you will have a bunch of time and money. Around me Dana 70's go for 350-500$, that would be what I would do.
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Old Jul 2, 2012 | 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by 93flatbed
I would start looking for a whole new axle, I'm sure someone out there can fix a housing but after you have it machined and welded and machined you will have a bunch of time and money. Around me Dana 70's go for 350-500$, that would be what I would do.
Here is my dilemma. I'm not sure the axle is damaged. We're the race sits in the housing there is a little lip or ridge. I'm not sure if it's from wear or if this is from the original machining. Without this ridge why the need for the spreader when installing/removing the carrier?

Can anyone recall while servicing there axle if this ridge is present?

Thanks.
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Old Jul 2, 2012 | 11:35 AM
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The ridge is from the spun bearing race. Use this opportunity to get rid of the annoying inboard brakes and upgrade to a newer axle.

00 PAU
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Old Jul 2, 2012 | 12:49 PM
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I had a deal like yours, but it was on the front axle of a 2wd. The outer bearing race was spinning. Ended up needing a new rotor and new bearings.

Listen to Faith.

I would like more info on the rear brakes that she mentions...
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Old Jul 2, 2012 | 01:53 PM
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I did a search on car-parts.com, and the nearest axle to you is 231 miles away, price not listed. The next closest, 384 miles away, is $850. Unless there is something closer that this site isn't privy to, you are probably better off fixing what you have, from a financial standpoint.
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Old Jul 2, 2012 | 04:37 PM
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Is it a dual rear wheel or single?
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Old Jul 2, 2012 | 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Field_boss_cb
Is it a dual rear wheel or single?
It's a 350, and he mentioned that he recently put 6 new tires on it.
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Old Jul 2, 2012 | 10:21 PM
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I'm with Wannadiesel also, this past weekend I picked up a D80 thats going in the 92, it has 3.5" shoes for more braking power and outboard drums.
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Old Jul 2, 2012 | 11:11 PM
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I miss the 6 new tires, but there were D-350's with single rear wheels
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Old Jul 2, 2012 | 11:26 PM
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From: lyman, utah
Originally Posted by MiniC
Did a search. Search spoke of spun bearings but no mention of how this issue was remedied/repaired/prevented. My truck is a 93 D350 with almost 250,000 miles and a Getrag. The tag says I have 3.54 gears, I believe it. I bought this truck from the original owner about 2 years ago. It always had a slight vibe during decel. I have done everything, new front brakes, rotors. Moog ball joints, 6 new tires, 3 new u joints, new carrier bearing, new tranny, new tranny mount, etc. I basically tried it all. It never got better but seamed to get worse after the ball joints. I rotated the tires, while I did this I jacked up the rearend and ran it. I noticed the rear wheels seamed to wobble. I was thinking bent axles but ruled this out because it's a driver not a worker, there's no way I damaged the axles with what I've don't to the truck. I started to consider wheel bearings. I tore the rear down. I found spun carrier bearings and some wore axle bearings. My long winded question is this, how is everyone fixing the spun bearing problem? I'm thinking shim stock under the cap or machine the cap? What about where the race ate into the housing? Shim? What are your thoughts? Thanks as usual!
i have repaired that problem by dragging a arc welder in the worn housing...seems like it works
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Old Jul 2, 2012 | 11:30 PM
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Originally Posted by johnh
i have repaired that problem by dragging a arc welder in the worn housing...seems like it works
Done that too. Added some metal, ground it till it was square, then new bearings and added shims to get the proper preload back.
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Old Jul 3, 2012 | 09:45 AM
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Just found a Dana 80 from a 96 Dodge for $400. It's about a 30 minute drive. I think I'll go this route. It's got the same 3.54 gear and a posi.

I certainly appreciate everyone's help and advice. If someone should happen to have their rearend apart and could snap a pic under their race I would love to see what an undamaged one looks like. I guess Ill look at the bright side my brakes were totally gone and needed replaced and the new rear has new brakes, I can recoup a little money scraping this Dana 70, and I've got a good 3.54 gear and power-loc to sell.

I'm off to research Dana 80 swaps.

Thanks again.
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Old Jul 3, 2012 | 04:16 PM
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To make the conversion....You will need the u-bolts and support brackets.I made provisions for the shocks and weld them to the support brackets. Driveshaft needs to be shorten about 1 3/4"
One of the best improvments for our trucks!
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Old Jul 3, 2012 | 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by rrgrassi

I would like more info on the rear brakes that she mentions...
On a 2nd Gen axle, you don't have to take the axle shaft out and remove the hub to get at the brakes. Just remove the wheel and you can pull off the drum like a normal vehicle with drum brakes.



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