ofelas

Some of you have read, lurking, slagging, or not, my OEM tailgate mat install thread.

To jog our deprived ULSD brains - https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...nstall-326143/

So - in the interests of keeping the DTR family posted on the important things of life - I humbly submit - Part 2 in the OEM part install saga.

Let me start by saying this gave me inspiration. I was struck how closely I resemble these words -

“I have never jury-rigged, mickey-moused, duct tape/bailing wired, haphazardly repaired anything.

Everything I do has been carefully thought out, researched, googled, opinions asked of the masses before I will put it into use.

As a mechanic there has never been anything that I could not start or drag back into the yard and repair.

I have made many tools, jigs, test adapters, black boxes, blue boxes, buzz boxes and have amazed many professionals with my knowledge.”

Reference link here - https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...7/#post3318101

As per newly ratified BC Cessna rules, please - keep fire extinguisher handy, and use a safe step stool + clean lint free cotton shop rags. Used Fruit Of The Loom with custom Mopar skid marks not approved above sea level.

Step 1 -

Gather SnapOn tools. I had to use a cheap Fluke multimeter as I lent out my SnapOn DVOM; too embarrassed to post a picture.



Step 2 -

Wipe affected oily oozing area with Mopar brand non marring alcohol wipe - take special care not to go more than 1/32” away from housing. Afore mentioned clean shop rags leave no marks.

Folks - double check your work with a fully approved SnapOn lamp. It’s plastic hook has been carefully formulated to avoid scratching OEM chrome handles.



Step 3 -

Use SnapOn 90 degree pick to carefully remove tailgate housing contacts smoke debris. then follow up with fully approved T9 BoeShield.



I always keep a can of BoeShield under the hood - why, to prevent rust damage to master cylinders & brake boosters of course. And anything aircraft approved is non flammable.

And, it’s in a magnetic Cummins coozy - not as rare as Mopar coozies, but sometimes, just sometimes, we have to make do as things just get stolen in bad ‘hoods. Just ask my procedural inspirational guru. There’s videos out there to back us up.



Step 4 -

Finally! The OEM manufacturer’s LED lamp is much more precise, reflective, and robust than the old, tired OEM lamps.



Notice the (non) glaring difference - tested on a wall of light - yes, the bottom OEM incandescent lamp is mine - notice OEM Mopar grease on bottom edge -



Step 5 -

I got a whopping 18 watts power savings with 5x new lamps - this, folks, is whats sets the .05 amp units aside from the .33 amp units.

In fact, I’ll soon have such a power surplus with the truck not running that I’ll be able to sell it to folks in need. Jim - I feel your 5 battery pain - major discount for you, my guru.

Step 6 -

Supper. Beer. 100% NOS Mopar. Ignore the fake branding.





Folks, I thank you for your undivided attention.

Stay tuned for Part #3 - I have an intensive OEM oil filter superiority analysis almost complete.

Teaser -

j.fonder

So with the 1.4 amp saving across the 5 bulbs, what would you say that translates to in metric horse torques gained?

Also, are you doing this since you're still running an alternator inferior to that of a leece Neville unit and need to free up some amperage?

ofelas

Thats 1.401 amps at my measured voltage.

I could easily gain an additional 72 HP but I hear I need 83LPM sticks on a stock engine any suggestions where I can get some from?

Of course, I have no idea what horse torques a LN alt unit would gain me.

I'm a mere acolyte at this complex 6BT game. Poor old rural vet, yada yada.

Perhaps 100% antifreeze mist diverted to a Leece Neville would cool it better & free up some juice?

Sigh.

edwinsmith

Assuming 12.6 nominal volts X 1.401 amps = 17.652 watts. 1 HP 746 watts which makes a HP savings of 0.0236621983914209 HP.

j.fonder

He uses a voltage regulator on all lighting circuits to drop voltage to exactly 12v. Increases lifetime of the diodes and leaves a bit more amperage to handle the signal generator for communications testing and troubleshooting on the fly.

edwinsmith

And so begins the picking of the nits.

j.fonder

And congrats to ofelas for breaking the 160hp mark. 160.0236621983914209!!!

ofelas

Thanks for electrical tips.

I'll apply them to headlight rheostat actuator build (new thread follows soon) to auto aim lamps & compensate for changing fuel levels.

nascar mark

I for one, just hooked up a hamster treed wheel under the hood. Dangle a carrot in front of him and he puts out more than Ofelas’s .0236621983914209 hp
Took me all of 5 mins to hook up and with a diaper gas collector on the little guy, I have a added bonus of NOS on demand !!!!

j.fonder

That's animal cruelty and I'm officially triggered!

93flatbed

Huge props on your install! Very creative and one off, you are a tremendous help to people that may not have ability/for site to get a task such as you took on by their selves with out pictures/explanation! Thank you for taking your time to post this.

In an attempt to keep global warming down and the ice burgs and snowflakes from melting I did an LED install also, not to your caliber but I tried. I took all safety measures wearing proper attire, gloves, safety glasses. One thing OFELAS's hit on that I cannot stress enough is lighting while in a work space.

I work better with some tune's on, I know it adds a little danger as you maybe distracted by your favorite song coming on but hey I work better when some Pantara comes on! Here's how I listen, Bluetooth'd to my phone. It actually saved me some time as the wife called and I was able to talk to her while still working.
Any whoot, lets get this job done.


Complete garbage, way too hot, kill polar bear HOT!

Also robbing Amps from Generator, and loosing Torque's!


One thing I did that most over look while doing such critical install such as brake lights is I tested my wiring's insulation. I didn't get a picture of the actual test because it takes both hands and it's hard to balance my Nikon D60 with no hands, but here's a picture of the tool I used. Everyone should own one of these, I'd go as far as saying this tool is just as important for every electrical repair as a simple screw driver!!! My wiring passed the test with flying colors, I was honestly surprised!!


Another one of me not getting a picture of work but checked break away torque of tail light housings.


Didn't get a very good picture, but guys, girls, please be sure to use dielectric lubricant! We all know these trucks ride like a drunk donkey, grease will not do the job, must be lubricant. Just a dab will do here! I took advantage of my american made snap-on magnetic koozie to hold my grease close to my work area.

Installed, couldn't find torque spec in FSM, so I took and educated guess based on break away number's.

Okay lets see how much less the new diode's are putting out in temperature.

MUCH better!!!
Lets see how much more Torque I can make.


Got one of my pup basking in the soft glow of the new lighting, she couldn't hardly sit next to the old bulbs, picture proof this is saving the Earth.

93flatbed

Okay time to clean up, wife dosn't allow me past the mess sink til I'm cleaned up.

Now it's time to celebrate saving the earth and possibly making a little more torque!

Finally need to check to see if any exhaust leaks were created since more power is being made.

ofelas

93flatbed, you bring tears to my eyes. Could you "thanks" my OEM post pretty please?

I feel inadequate after viewing your outstanding approved tool pouch, but I will try to rise to the occasion.

1/ First off, what is the part # of that OEM Chrysler argent colored SnapON portable tool box? I must have one. It sends a thrill up my leg just knowing a GM Master Tech owns one.

2/ Next. Dielectric grease - NOT approved. I recommend Guard her Bend her Ox-Gard - it reduces terminal temperature by up to 3.5f, and is fully polar bear approved.

Link - Ox-Gard Anti-Oxidant Compound | Gardner Bender - I suspect its an obsolete Genuine Mopar part actually.

93flatbed, I fully appreciate your kindness in recognizing my effort to keep our old trucks running. I am going to give you an insider tip on what tail lamps increase torque a bit more -

These are specially designed to have the Genuine Mopar approved dispersion pattern through tail lamp lenses designed for OEM Mopar 1157 bulbs. Lesser LED units merely project a beam. What if a fellow Mopar owner was behind you? Would you really want to blind him??!!

These are the ones you need - they provide additional amperage savings over your obvious Sylvania LEDs - be green, friend, be green.



Lastly - you are welcome at my place anytime. I always have Bigly Burgers & Deplorable Dogs for you. Washed down with 100% approved Yuengling.

Charcoal started by 100% Genuine Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner part # 4318001AD - MOS, so TEL based of course.

Our little secret

93flatbed

Snap-on boom box #ssx15p1140, I got mine 2 year's ago. Not sure they still make, ebay maybe your Frey on this?

GM dielectric lubricant, P#12377900. It's not Mopar but still american made. I chose lubricant due to vibrations of my truck when I sit on milk crate where seat used to be and I make vroom sounds and jerk steering wheel left to right. I do have billit jack-stands but they can only handle so much, I need upgrade to racing billit aluminum!

As to blinding fellow Mopar driver... I have sub Par amperage from NOS Alternator. My mechanical engine has way too much amperage draw! We'll leave that to another thread but too much amp's being pulled out. Not to mention I have VE I'm never out front...

You were very close to your guess as to which LED I went with. Sylvania 2057R, 20 ish year old Auto-Zone worker said BEST, so I took his word. I obviously failed! I did get a lifetime warranty so I feel it was a good purchase.

I appreciate offer of good home cooking, I'll extend a warm hand and open heart if you ever feel like traveling to the devils oven, I'm hoping with my upgrade it will not be so hot here in the summer! We no need cook on Kingsford, I just use rock in back yard. Beer and whiskey are kept in shop fridge we have good time with it. No need to bring American made snap-on koosie's or clothing, I'll cover you!

93flatbed

I like You style, You have the obvious advantage with Mopar NoS. May I attempt to do a comparison with my Fleet Guard built filters on an american machined Billit filter housing? I know not Mopar but I feel just a short step behind NoS. We can both do back to back testing of flow and non Ice up. I can use thermal imaging and you can use other technology. Deal?