[QUOTE=DNRCustoms;2710447]Well, after several water test with myself inside the cab of a few different trucks, I found the culprit. It is the darn air vent that we all like to use in the summer. Water runs down it and hits the inside lip of the cutout and deflects inside the cab which runs to the drivers floor board. Which then keeps your carpet wet and rusts out the floor in the old girls!! So, I came up with a simple yet effective solution. It is pictured below. It may not be the cure all for every truck, but a solid truck with non leaky cab lights and good tight non leaky winshiled, blocking this hole will keep the water out.!!

Don't mind the awkward placement of the holes, I was being lazy and tried to do it without taking the parking brake out of the way. But it didn't work!!]

What is rust? Never heard of it and rain? I don't even want to know what that is ...Sorry guys I couldn't help it...greetings from the desert Mark

 

Thanks for the prompt reply.

So – if I implemented the solution proposed above by DNRCustoms and then used a 3" hole saw to cut a hole in the center of the black plate – do you think water would still run in on the carpet?

Thanks again.

 

My truck had leaked long enough that the floor is sinking near the drivers side sill!

 

I also had the soggy floor issue especially on the drivers side. I found that I had three leaks none of which were the cowl vent. (1.) I found the windshield rubber had pulled back at the corners, top and bottom, resulting in dripping down behind the dash onto the floor. (2.) The bed light on the back of the cab was the biggest leak-er. Leaking in around the light and seal down the cab back wall under the carpet and rubber pad, running under the seat forward and puddling on the drivers side floor. (3.) The back slider window seal was also leaking a little.
After sealing all these leaks about 3 months ago I now have a dry cab.
Fortunately, no rust issues.
And I live in a rain Forrest.
Dan,

 

I made a little deflector that had about a 30 degree angle on it....made of some sheet plastic I had lying around, carefully heated with a torch and bent over a bench edge, used as a "brake".
Then I got some quick setting JB weld type stuff and epoxied it to the inner wall of the vent (closest to your feet), about 2-3 inches up from the top of the vent opening . Trust me, the arm cramps don't last that long...now any water that comes down is deflected away from the vent opening.
A second piece of plastic about 1.5" high was also epoxied at the bottom of the vent opening for a little extra protection. Now I have dry floors and can still use the vent. A little silicone to seal any gaps in the fit finished the job.
No interference with the slider occurs since the plastic parts are inside the vent.

Thanks to the DTR for the idea..now to figure out why my rockers rusted out from the inside...

Alan

 

Can't tell you why they rust from the inside but I can tell you what I have done to prevent...WD40 the heck out of the inner areas of your sheet metal using the red wand that comes with every can. I've done inside the roof panels of my truck spraying WD40 in through the cab clearance lights holes and from inside through the sun visor mounting holes. I spray WD40 into the doors and into the rocker panels and I do this this at least once annually. I don't drive a salted roads either but for many that is not an option.