Need suggestions please.
I have a 1993 Dodge W250 4x4 5 speed and I want to remove the old ve pump and convert to the 97-98 P Pump. I need you all to chime in and let me know what I all need. To do this swap. My motor has a tick under 300K on the original pump,and it runs just great!...But The 1998 12V I sold left it in the dust......waaaaaay back. Please help me so I can start rounding up the parts I need. Thanks guys ! I may even consider swapping the whole bit for a truck that suits my desires. I like a 1997-98 12v q/c automatic 4 wd single or quad cab fine with me. I may trade this one off. Its a 1992w250 reg cab,reg bed,2nd owner (original owner was my Dad) Most likely the best route to take will be to gather the paqrts and do the swap.Thanks!

 

I think the new issue of Diesel Power has an article about how to convert to a p-pump

 

That'll never work.

 

I have the latest issue....on the last page,it shows what's coming in the next issue......and how to P-pump a 24 valve.....
I know I need the cover, the pump,the inj. lines, also the injectors from the 96-98 5 speed motors, and most likely the gears on the front of the motor....crank gear,cam gear pump gear.....
what am I missing??

 

the lift pump, your also going to want more turbo with that more fuel.

 

i've got a buddy who bought a short block from a '92. he has a '94 with a cracked block. he'll be swapping everything from his '94 to the '92 block. i'll ask him about a generic swap and see what he says. what i know right now is he'll be using a hamilton big stick cam. what i do know you'll need is just about everything you mentioned. crank should be fine as is, cam is a maybe, timing case, timing case gear cover, p-pump, pump gear, injector lines, injectors, high psi piston lift pump... that's all that's coming to mind at the moment. i'll post up after i talk to my buddy and get you any info i missed.

 

Fuel filter setup, or a line to p-pump from your VE filter housing which is in the head. Throttle bracket(if the pump has one on it, cool). Your CC cable is going to be different, so you may need the cable and canister from a 94-98 truck, if you have cruise.
You'll possibly want the fuel shutdown relay from a 94-98 truck, so you can control the fuel shutdown solenoid. takes 2 12Volt+ inputs, one low amp, for run, and one high amp for start conditions.

 

It's often cheaper (and simpler) to swap in a p-pump motor.

You need the whole fuel system along with the timing case and cover.

 

how do you wire up a 2nd gen FSS to a 1st gen? I am swapping a 96 motor into mine and cant figure it out.

 

LOL you're right, since it was a 24V. And, the article got pushed back a month.

With a VE you need lines, front cover, gear, linkage, fuel pump, injector pop off tested (depending on who you talk to). If you can find a wrecked 12v to pull parts off of, or are handy at rigging things up, it's not that hard.

 

On mine, I used the VE fuel shutdown 12V + to supply the low amp wire, and taped into the starter solenoid to trigger the relay, which feeds the battery direct fused 12v+ signal to the high amp wire and then the 3rd wire is ground. Pretty basic, and it works fine.

make sense?

 

I have given a lot of thought to this same project and came to a shared conclusion that a donor engine is the best way. If I were to do it tomorrow I would want a complete second generation 12 valve ready to go in under the hood. Then after all is said and done I would sell the first gen. engine to recoup some of my expenses.

 

Ok done the swap on mine very simple if you know what your doing here is a list of what you need.
Injection pump.....of coarse
Pump support Bracket
Front Gear Case
Front Cover
Lines
injectors from 94-98...... Threads on the body are bigger on p-pump injectors
P-pump Gear

Lift pump..... I personally prefer to just put a AIRDOG on so you bypass factory filter setup aslo makes conversion much easier if you decide to run factory lift pump and filter setup you must have have the
high pressure piston pump
filter adapter housng that bolts on top of intake plenum
feed line from lift pump to top of filter housing
Line from filter housing to injection pump

Return line on injection pump and you can run it back to the 1stgen factory T-fitting at the back of the block

Spacer for intake horn to clear lines

Sorry for being long winded and I'm pretty sure that's everything may have left one or two things out but it can be done in a decent price range I did mine right and got out little over 1500 and made it look as close to factory as possible besides the twins hanging off the other side lol

 

Great post, most complete list I have seen so far.

 

I decided to change the motor a motor from a school bus was a cummins recon has the p pump and air compressor and hx35w turbo just sit it in the truck wednesday.