The manual I have is for a two wheel drive and the truck is on the stands. i have two brand new rotors to install and I'm not sure how to remove the rotors. It appears I have to remove the 4x4 locking mech. If I remove it, are a bunch springs gonna come flying out at me? Then what...a huge nut like the rear with that little metal piece that keeps the nut from spinning off? I had to get the one for the rear at the ford dealership, which is not open today.

I read the sticky on the steering shaft. It says to replace the seal. Is it really necessary, or one of those "good to do it while your there" deals?

Any quick help is greatly appreciated

 

Replacing the seal on the steering box input shaft becomes trivial once the Borgenson is installed. It takes like literally 10 seconds to loosen the lock screw and pull it off whenever needed thereafter.

If however, you manage to damage that seal in the onerous task of driving out the roll pin which holds the OEM coupler in place, then you will be replacing it anyway. Wedge a piece of wood in there between the frame and shaft nice 'n tight and hammer away. That's what I did and my steering shaft seal is fine with the original seal seven months later.

 

You need a special socket, different than the one for the rear, to take the castle nuts off of the front hub. There will be no springs flying around, but there is a very annoying c-clip that needs to come out once you get the locking hub part off. It is not fun and you should be careful that when it does come out it doesn't go flying off into the lawn or something.

Once you get the hub/rotor combo off, you need to flip it over and drive out all the lug studs so that you can separate the rotor from the hub and then drive them all back in again when you get the new rotor in place.

 

Thanks

It appears that the shaft from Borgeson is short. Whan I match it up ot is a full inch shy of the oem coupler. Does the steering shaft extend and retract above the rag joint?

How about those rotors...looks like a major pain to remove.

 

The rotors are definitely time consuming to replace, no doubt about it. I put off doing mine until there was no option. Sure was nice though, once it was done.

the haynes manual does have adequate instructions for the 4wd hubs and the special socket I was able to get at NAPA. You should pick up some seals while you're at it so you can fully inspect and repack the wheel bearings as long as you're in there anyway. I ended up replacing the bearings and races on mine, too.

 

The Borgenson is itself a slip joint of sorts. It's just kinda tight to start with. Pull it apart real hard - it stretches, you'll see.

 

Thanks for the info. i'm heading to the parts store for the socket to remove the hub. I'll commence to yankin on the Borg shaft in a few.

thanks again for the quick replys...didn't get any replys "over there".

 

I got the steering shaft on with no issues. I hadn't a clue it telescoped...Doh ! Thanks for the enlightenment. Too bad i can't test it.

I got the calipers and one hub off. The outside pad was trashed and grinded some pretty good grooves in the rotor(I was far from home). The inside pad had the full thickness of lining. The other side was similar, full thickness inside and worn outside. The little squealer, your pads are getting worn deal, is on the inside, of course. What gives?
My parts guy gave me the wrong pads. The new Car Quest rotors he gave me were correct but extremely thin compared to the ones on the truck. I'm concerned about them warping. Should I be? Any brand recommendations?

Thanks Ace, Woodrat. I appreciate the info.

 

A lot of times, where the pad 'floats' on the caliper bracket will build up with a layer or two of rust scale. When doing even just pads, it's always recomended to remove the caliper bracket and clean any and all scale that may be present where the pad slides against it. The scale can lead to a pad that sticks in and drags on a rotor, thus warping it, or it can lead to a pad that hangs up and never engages the rotor, prematurely wearing the opposite pad. Doing a set of disk brakes properly takes some time...


As for the rotors...I dunno---cheapos, maybe? One of the fellas I learned from said to get the best rotors possible and the cheapest pads possible on the premise that the rotors will then eat the pads, rather than the opposite.

 

I would be worried about the rotors. I went through a lot of hassle getting right ones for mine, there are several different ones and I had to get a casting number off the inside of one to get the correct ones, since there were two different ones with the same diameter, even in 3/4 ton 4x4. I went with loaded calipers from the parts store instead of just pads. It made things go really smoothly, less time scraping the crud off of things and I don't have to worry about it now. they weren't too expensive from NAPA anyway.

But definitely double check the rotors. Mine are pretty thick and heavy.

BTW, you should put the particulars about your truck in your signature.

 

It is done...and now i know how it is put together! Thanks everyone for the info. I appreciate the help. Next project????

 

don't worry, it will give you another project eventually..

back in June I did my front brakes including new rotors and bearings. Since then I've done the transfer case coupler and seals, front driveshaft ujoints, and just did oil cooler, valve adjustment, KDP abatement, rear brakes and next is going to be steering shaft and fusible link replacement.


And I'm due for rims and tires and seats...

not to mention door hinge repair and cowl crack sealing ...

I still love it though, for it's drivetrain mostly, but I do like the look of the body too..