ofelas

The ones that leaked were your original 9mm sticks?

Regardless, City Diesel...I wouldn't rely on them further than I could throw a banjo washer.

Can't believe they're still in business. You'd have been better off having your injectors rebuilt, but I understand you wanted that leak fixed ASAP.

As far as 9mm injectors - they're not worth over $35 to $50 unless they're being peddled from a custom rusted junkyard.

Nothing rare about them. Much better off installing the 9mm to 7mm inserts and installing 7mm sticks...those 9mms like to contribute towards the non IC heads cracking around the too sparse injector pockets. Though 7mm adaptors won't help with the cracking non IC pockets, only a new 7mm head will.

And making 400hp? Stock non IC sticks can't make 350hp on an accurate dyno with a maxed out pump & decent air.

I'd like to see a dyno sheet of a known truck with known stock unmodified non IC sticks making a verified 400rwhp.

If you got that s300x from a shop that claimed you'd make 400hp with the stock non IC sticks, Dan S, you're probably on their calendar reminder list for an injector upgrade.

Not calling out anyone in particular, but so much unverified info floating around there...

Us first genners are generally cheapskates...takes special people to sling BS and get us to open our wallets

If you need 9mm good cores, Dan S, I will send you some free.

Dan s

They actually had several sets

Dan s

Not sure if they were the "original " but they matched the ones I just got. Thanks for the offer ofelas

Dan s

Got injectors n. Everything went good. Still same knock. I don't know what else to do. Maybe it's me. But. Truck does run and idle better

93flatbed

Post video. Upload to YouTube and post link to your video.

Any thing else happening besides the knock you're hearing? Smoke, vibrations, extended crank, bla bla bla..

mknittle

I know it sounds dumb but is your down new pipe clearing everything?
IIRC you mentioned that was about the time it started.

Dan s

I'm good on the down pipe. Thanks guys but I'm done for the day. It won this battle. Tomar I'm gonna drain the oil and drop the pan and see what I see. I hope it's not to bad but I dot a bad feeling I'll be doing a rebuild pretty quick. I sure hope not. It's sounds like it's coming from number 2 or 3 I'm think it could be a wrist pin. But here again it's holding good oil pressure. Got a little haze at idle but not bad. I'm gonna try to get a video up tomar. Thanks again. Talk to y'all tomar

bigragu

Hey, Dan, have you ever dropped the oil pan on your truck?

When you pull the plug, to drain the oil, and the oil doesn't come out smooth, like a tube of oil pouring out, but baffled, I hate to say it, but the flange of the thrust bearing is at the drain hole, stopping up the flow. In that case, yes, you must drop the pan to repair. You're gonna need a cherry picker, and have to raise the front of the engine up past the radiator about 8". It's an ordeal. Tranny removed, intercooled ducts, turbo exhaust, wiring, all that fun stuff.

If you already knew all that, forgive my intrusion.

Dan s

Can I fire the truck up like this? Is there anything it could hurt

patdaly

Other than the oil mess if you run it too long, shouldn't be an issue. Be aware that should any significant amount of a fuel source be introduced thru the intake, it can and will run away. I always liked to have a board or something of the sort to throw over the intake to kill the air if needed, but I am OCD.

I have run them for as long as 15 min. by spraying WD40 down an open intake ( Don't ask, a VP44 issue).

Dan s

Thanks. I've got it narrowed down to the top end. It's not a rod. I just readjusted the valves and when I fired it up it still knock. Now the number 3 injector isn't wanting to seat and I gotta pull it back out to see what the problem is

Dan s

Dan s

Hey I did it. Here is a video. Tell me what u here

Dan s

Grey smoke then turns black

93flatbed

How long ago did you do the springs? I've bent a push rod and it had a noise similar to that.