Replaced afc diaphragm and now have no power!
#46
Registered User
Wow. That’s a lot of work, but I guess also a lot cheaper. Time to fill the back of the truck with parts again using it as a work bench I guess. I guess I know what I’m doing this Friday and next Monday since I have school off.
You are correct that I had the tank cleaned. I cleaned the pickup and sending unit as best I could and blew the feed and return lines from the tank to the lift pump and return to tank with the air compressor and carb cleaner and gas. I sure hope this taking apart and cleaning fixes it. Do I need to get a new slide pin too?
You should read the sticky's that have to do with the VE pump and get as familiar as you can with the internals of the pump. If you need the special socket for the triangle bolts on the sides of the pump then PM me your address and I'll mail you mine. Just take your time and be careful. The VE isn't as complex as you might think. If you need help I'll be able to talk on the phone. I'll PM you my cell number.
There is a video on youtube which details removing the pump and reinstalling it. You won't need to re time it if the mark is visible. If not then mark it before you unbolt the pump.
Edwin
#47
Registered User
Thread Starter
I doubt you need any new metal parts assuming the miles on the truck is correct. It's just getting broke in!
You should read the sticky's that have to do with the VE pump and get as familiar as you can with the internals of the pump. If you need the special socket for the triangle bolts on the sides of the pump then PM me your address and I'll mail you mine. Just take your time and be careful. The VE isn't as complex as you might think. If you need help I'll be able to talk on the phone. I'll PM you my cell number.
There is a video on youtube which details removing the pump and reinstalling it. You won't need to re time it if the mark is visible. If not then mark it before you unbolt the pump.
Edwin
You should read the sticky's that have to do with the VE pump and get as familiar as you can with the internals of the pump. If you need the special socket for the triangle bolts on the sides of the pump then PM me your address and I'll mail you mine. Just take your time and be careful. The VE isn't as complex as you might think. If you need help I'll be able to talk on the phone. I'll PM you my cell number.
There is a video on youtube which details removing the pump and reinstalling it. You won't need to re time it if the mark is visible. If not then mark it before you unbolt the pump.
Edwin
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edwinsmith (03-28-2018)
#48
Registered User
Remember as Tcows says pictures are your friend, take a million of them as you are taking it apart and look at each part carefully, and its orientation so you know the way to put it back together.
If the truck runs great after you do this you will know the total satisfaction of owning a first gen truck that you can fix yourself, good luck.
If the truck runs great after you do this you will know the total satisfaction of owning a first gen truck that you can fix yourself, good luck.
#49
Registered User
Remember as Tcows says pictures are your friend, take a million of them as you are taking it apart and look at each part carefully, and its orientation so you know the way to put it back together.
If the truck runs great after you do this you will know the total satisfaction of owning a first gen truck that you can fix yourself, good luck.
If the truck runs great after you do this you will know the total satisfaction of owning a first gen truck that you can fix yourself, good luck.
I would also suggest you do this inside in an area that is as clean as possible. You don't want any dirt in that pump.
#50
Registered User
Agree 100%. Take photos and look at everything carefully as you disassemble. I've seen way to many people just tear something down not paying attention and then they don't know how it goes back together.
I would also suggest you do this inside in an area that is as clean as possible. You don't want any dirt in that pump.
I would also suggest you do this inside in an area that is as clean as possible. You don't want any dirt in that pump.
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mknittle (04-07-2018)
#51
Registered User
Thread Starter
I don’t think I’ll get away with the kitchen table even though I’m not married. I’m still in high school, so I live at home and I’m sure my mom would not approve. The bed of my truck is probably as good as it is going to get. That’s when I find time to do it. I’ll probably just lay a piece of plastic down in the bed of my truck and put everything in labeled baggies. Should stay pretty safe since I have a shell on the truck. Maybe I’ll have to get out one of the spare folding tables and use that inside.
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mknittle (04-07-2018)
#52
Registered User
I don’t think I’ll get away with the kitchen table even though I’m not married. I’m still in high school, so I live at home and I’m sure my mom would not approve. The bed of my truck is probably as good as it is going to get. That’s when I find time to do it. I’ll probably just lay a piece of plastic down in the bed of my truck and put everything in labeled baggies. Should stay pretty safe since I have a shell on the truck. Maybe I’ll have to get out one of the spare folding tables and use that inside.
I bet you find a big chunk of sludge clogging something up.
Edwin
#54
Registered User
Thread Starter
I guess it is possible, but I don’t see how that could happen. I had the tank cleaned, and it was spotless inside when I put it back on. The only place I can see stuff coming from is stuff that was inside the injector lines before and has recirculated. I thought it would have been burned out by now, but I guess 1,000 miles isn’t enough. Don’t EVER run WVO in your truck!!!
#56
Registered User
Thread Starter
I just changed the fuel filter the other day and got maybe 30 minutes of run time on it. I'll look into installing a cheap fuel pressure gauge. I hate starting this thing with ether though. I still need to get some long skinny pliers and try and pull that slide pin into the bore and maybe move it back and forth some. If I can get that freed up I am wondering if I could just run the truck hard some and get things cleaned out. I don't even know how high of a concentration of Stanadyne fuel additive I have in the fuel. I usually fuel up at about a third of a tank and still put 30 gallons worth of additive in. I would imagine it is rather sting mixture by now. Especially since I have filled a couple filters with it when I have changed them. If I remember correctly these trucks recalculate a large percentage of fuel, so that means a large percentage of what is in the filter goes back into the tank. A filter takes nearly a full 60 gallon treatment bottle to fill. I know if I just pulled the pump apart and cleaned it and revealed it at the same time then it would probably fix my issue. I just haven't quite had the time to figure out how to pull the whole pump off and do that yet. Also, how does one pull the injectors apart to clean them without affecting the pop pressure? I'm still a rookie on these things and learning.
#57
Registered User
I've had that slide pin stick in before and the only way I could get it to come out was to pull the top off the pump as the part that pushes it out is run by a spring, the good thing is while it's out you can put the 3200 gov spring in there and that's a really good thing.
Just remember to back your full power screw out and to clean and look where your index marks are on your throttle shaft before you pull it apart
Just remember to back your full power screw out and to clean and look where your index marks are on your throttle shaft before you pull it apart
#58
Registered User
Thread Starter
Still no start and pin isn’t stuck
So today I fiddled with the pump some more to try and fix my no start issue. I pulled the throttle lever off of the throttle shaft to access the back side of the fuel slide pin that is stuck. So I did that and removed the little cover that is on the back side of the slide pin. Using a mirror to make sure there was not anything in the way I used an Allen wrench to push on the pin. With a little pressure it popped back into the bore hat the fuel cone sits in. So i then grabbed a small screwdriver and popped the pin back the other way. I moved it back and forth several times until it felt like it had freed up. It never was all that stuff, but it freed up some. It now moves easily back and forth. Not too easily, but it moves smoothly beside the little bit of a popping action. I was hoping that this would make the truck start, but when I went to start it it just cranked. I didn’t crank it for real long since it was past 9 o’clock, but it definitely didn’t magically fix it unfortunately. Is there some spring that hooks to that pin someway? Is it possible something came unhooked down inside the pump that is not allowing it to move that pin anymore? Right now when I move the throttle lever it does not pop that pin out like I’ve been told it should. The pin did not appear to be rusted or even dirty when I looked at it after popping it out. The only thing that I changed before the whole no start thing happened was pull the fuel pin out and replace the diaphragm. I am about to just bite the bullet and get a new pump as I really need this thing going again. Anyways, that is what I did today.
#60
Registered User
Thread Starter
Yes. I have even tried gutting the solenoid by removing the plunger and spring with the same result. Trucks starts with one small spray of starting fluid and stays running. It also shuts off just fine. I just can’t figure out why the sag slide pin that rides on the fuel cone won’t pop out when he throttle is moved like it is supposed to. I have talked to a couple other people with these trucks that had a not start issue from that slide pin getting stuck too far in. Maybe I just need to suck it up and get a new injection pump.