squarenose

Jim,
I'm pretty new to the site, I guess this kind of knowledge is why i joined, I will be doing this as soon as my LED's come in. Wow this is great.

Thanks

Jungle

What did you use for a gauge pod that is sitting on your dash??

91W350CTD

I just went and checked and it's actually the top left and the middle left that don't work on mine.

Jim Lane

The dash pod I bought from Banks Engineering in Azusa Ca. probably about 8 years ago now and sad to say but they are no longer manufacturing them, it included the lower base and fit perfectly.

blackfordd

My Dad had the Banks kit put on the truck in about 1999. I have the same gauge pod.

Jungle

Jim thanks for the reply!!

ted4420

Great R&R instructions. Could you tell me how to get the odometer working while I have it apart? Thanks, Ted

Jim Lane

If the odometer stops working while the speedometer still works it is usually a gear that breaks inside the speedo head, it is not a difficult job but you have to be able to work with some small parts.

Here are the instructions and the source to get the parts.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/....html?t=128685

Last time I checked they wanted about $150.00 to have the head repaired and shipped back to you.
Jim

ted4420

Thanks you very much! I will get with the owner and see if he wants me to fix it. Ted

ofcmarc

OK...... I started this project and now I have a problem I can't figure out..... Swapped all the lights in the cluster for LEDs Looked good on the bench before i put the cluster back in the truck. I also replaced the lamp in the heater control and all of my extra gauges with LEDs.

Once I put the cluster back in the dash, I tested it again and blew the headlamp switch. Well the gauge illumination circuit anyways. No blown fuse just the switch.... Thought maybe it was a coincidence but I checked out all my wiring and couldn't find a problem. Put in a new switch and tested it. It worked for a brief second then POOF all the smoke came out of the headlamp switch again.....

Somethings up and I'm not quite sure what it is. Could it be that replacing all the lamps with LEDs has lowered the resistance in the circuit so much that it is now acting like there is direct short to ground?

Any thoughts? Suggestions?

wannadiesel

I have seen some LED 194's that will short out some types of sockets. When you look at the old bayonet base bulbs, you will see that the contact wires are staggered like this:
A lot of LED 194's have the contacts arranged like so:
Some 194 sockets put power on the left and ground on the right, others put power on top and ground on the bottom. The standard bulbs work fine in either situation, but the LED's that are set up like my awesome illustration will short out a top/bottom type socket. The good news is that the contacts are usually just pieces of wire, and you can bend them over to the other side of the base to correct the short.

I hope this makes some sense?

ofcmarc

OK. So I want the contacts staggered correct?

IIRC the LEDs I used were set up that way.

I used these ones.

http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-b...Fwled-whp6.htm

wannadiesel

Yes, and it appears yours are made right. Take a good look at them though.

LED's have much more resistance and should draw much less current than regular 194's. There's no reason you should blow the headlight switch.

ofcmarc

OK I'll double check that stuff tonight.

Anychance that having a 194 left in for a couple of the idiot light (CEL, oil pressure warning and such) spaces would mess things up?

wannadiesel

Nope, they weren't causing any trouble before so why would they start now?