I have the number for spindle nuts and tab washer, 2" -16. (Dorman 05306)

Is there not a thrust washer that goes under those?

The nylock nuts seem to get chewed up in time. They're soft, and that's a lot of metal wear particles in the grease. Seems senseless to me.

 

I'm confused. Grease would indicate the front axle? But there is a straight cotter pin/castle nut set up. Nyllok is a Dana rear nut which is hypoid lubricated.
I replace the Nyloks everytime they come apart. I got "lifetime warrentee" on them @ local autoparts store.

There should be very little spinning of the inner cone. I suggest using a dial indicator and get the free play down to 0.002-0.005 in after bearings are seated.

Michael

 

How about the Dana 60 nut swap?

 

The thrust washer from that would be what I'm looking for. That kit should work fine as is, also.

Samiam... gearlube...dang yer picky. Anyway, the inner cone always turns a little, and against the soft nylock nut it wears the nut. That makes metal particles, which then circulate in the bearings, and even back into the dif case. Pretty much what you said when you noted that you replace them every time.

Makes no sense to me.

 

There was a discussion on a forum about greasing REAR axle bearings and if I recall correctly, the FSM states they should be packed like front bearings

 

Just confirmed it, page 3-33
Pack each bearing with multi purpose NLGI,grade 2, EP type lubricant

 

I run the D60 jam nuts on a couple of my D70s. They come out flush to the end of the spindle. The saving grace is the axle flange is relieved for oil clearance.

With the extra thrust washer, you reduce thread engagement and lose your oil clearance... if the axle shaft will even meet the hub. I quickly made some blanks from alum plate to replace the shafts on a D70 trailer axle, then realized how little room there is for oil since my blanks aren't relieved on the backside.

I'm torn on greasing the hub bearings. I don't like mixing grease into the gear oil, but if you don't, you need to make darn sure the 90w finds its way past the carrier bearings to the wheel ends. My buddy burnt up a couple fullfloaters from oil starvation assembling them dry. That was even with jacking up opposite sides of the vehicle for an hour per side to coax the lube out there. I suspect the side without the vent can airlock.

 

That cements my decision to run the Stage 8 X-Lock nut system. It has a thrust washer, and positive, reusable locking.

I'm going with the sneaky hunch that the manufacturer knows what he's doing.

 

I have never had any problems using gear oil as an assembly lube.