ok.
axle shafts are out...
retaining nuts out...
outer bearing out...

now i can't get the pads to release... looking for my 9mm to open the bleeder, is there another way? i tried to use the adjuster but i went the wrong way and made it tigher, it doesn't want to click the other direction, what am i doing wrong?

 

ok what's the deal why can't i get the hubs/drums off?

 

You need to use a thin tool to lift the adjuster pawl off the wheel so you can loosen it. Just push it in a 1/4 inch or so to lift it off then turn the wheel with a flat screwdriver or adj tool. I Know... It's a PITA.

Edwin

 

i'll give it a shot

 

Edwin is right. Shine a mini maglite in there so you can get a view of the tab that keeps the starwheel from turning backwards. Do your best to memorize how it looks, cause now you'll need both hands. I usually use a piece of coathanger bent to the specific application. Push the tab out of the way and loosen the starwheel with whatever you used to tighten it. Again, Edwin is right---it's a PITA!


edit: BTW, the hub drum assembly is HEAVY Be prepared and be careful of the axle seal on the way on and off--it's easy to tear it with all the weight you'll be huffing around

 

ok so you guys must be lightweights that drum/hub wasn't that heavy! lol. ok so it wasn't exactly light... there are some pretty deep grooves in the drum i think i'll have to end up replacing them. guy at the local o-reilly said he thinks the hub would have to come off to turn the drum is that true?

 

I imagine the hub would have to come off. Have a shop put a mic on it to see of it can be turned. Even with the gm wheel cylinders, they just don't wear that fast.

 

You got a computer in your garage? You're quick! Glad you got it off. Some times you can turn it a bit and slide them off but if it was grooved then probably not especially after you tightened it more.

I usually replace the seals anyway because I'd rather spend the few bucks than have to tear everything out again if it leaks.

Edwin

 

G1625S, there isn't any brake pad left, it was metal on metal for a bit.... that's what i get for putting it off.

 

You guys are scaring me. Is there a way to see the shoe without going thru all that for nuthin?

 

not unless you can see through the little hole at the backing plate. but there is another option.... disc conversion. Its the biggest reason why i want discs, cuz they are so much easier to change the pads not to mention better stoping power.

 

So what's involved in converting to disks on a 350 dually?

 

Not too much just some $$$ and parts lol. You can buy all the parts from your local parts supplier except the caliper bracket you have to make it or buy it off ebay or a couple other places.

 

Hope your rear brake experience is better than mine. I did mine about a month ago and spend close to $350. I had to replace shoes, drums, hardware, wheel cylinders, axle seals and not to mention that I replace every line from the ABS unit down (which is also junk). Complete PITA and took forever. Heck of a deal when you consider that I pull it in to get the IP and injectors out to be tested. I'll get off my soapbox.

 

Mine wasn't as bad as that. When I bought my truck I soon figured out the brakes weren't right so I tore into them. The right side wasn't that bad, Just new shoes and wheel cylinder. The left side however had been completely gutted and the line plugged with a nail.

I had to buy all those little parts and fix the e-brake cable.

Happily the drums were OK so no expense there. When I put it all together I decided to flush the system with new fluid but the left side wouldn't flow. That's when I found the nail had been stuck in the line. I guess so the right brake would still work.

I'll leave it to the readers imagination as to the parentage or intelligence of somebody who would do this.

Edwin