cody c

Hey gents and ladies, I have a few questions if you wouldn't mind helping out, but first what I'm working with:

6BT out of a 91, NV4500 out of a 97, head ported/polished on exhaust side, denny T fuel pin, 3" stainless exhaust. EGT and boost gauges. Powertrain is in a 92 toyota landcruiser.

I got an HX35W turbo recently, just rebuilt it, ground down the rough casting on the exterior and some of the casting nubs, cleaned up casting on the intake and exhaust to smooth things up a pinch, hit the exhaust housing with a grinder and flap discs to smooth things out, with VHT paint and the turbo blanket it should limit engine compartment temps, but really is more of a cosmetic than functional process.

My first question before I bolt it up, the turbo did not come with a wastegate actuator, I've hay-wired them closed on toyota diesels (more common up in Canada eh) but will I overboost and break my engine with an HX35W wired shut on this engine with the Denny T?

Second: I am going to move the oil fill on top of the first valve cover, and want to block off the timing cover port. In the landcruiser there is a bit of space with the electric fan but not alot, is there a block off plate for this from the factory or should I think about welding it closed or building an access cover?

Third, this old donk has a few leaks, I'd like to replace the timing cover gasket, is this thing a real pain in the **** to swap out without pulling the rad? I'm not sure about the KDP, but the motor has alot of miles and hasnt had an issue, but I should probably check that while I'm there, but any comments on changing that timing cover gasket?

Also, for sake of explaining things, I'm also working on a top mount IC for it (I know front mount is better, but I'd like to keep the mud out of it on the trails) I mention this as it changes the dynamics of the powertrain and performance. Also planning on a 4" exhaust sometime in the next year or two.

Thanks

oliver foster

The first question about wiring up the HX-35W with a turned up '91. Yes it will boost way higher than I would like to see, especially since it is the 91.0 with the bigger injectors from the factory.
I bet you will see mid to high 40s for boost pressure if you have tuned the injection pump at all and the Denny T pin. That is way higher than I like on my motors. I shoot for 30 -32 PSI max of boost on my HX-35s. I am assuming it is a factory Dodge HX-35W with the small 12CM exhaust housing.

Yes there is a factory block off cap for the oil filler tube location on the timing cover. The industrial Cummins motors often come with to and the oil filler hole in one of the valve covers.

The more room the more "fun" the job of resealing the timing cover and doing the KDP will be. I try to do them before I put the 12V in my project truck, but it can be easily enough done in the truck.

Cool rig as well!

oliver foster

I do am assuming you have a boost and pyro gauge with all those mods...Right?

cody c

That's a big 10-4 on the gauges. Thanks for the compliment!

Boost gauge reads to about 25psi max, and then moves to about 30 psi before the needle limits with the H1C currently. I'm guessing about 32-35PSI is the most I can make at the moment.

I don't have the fuel turned up. I'm debating if I should just run the HX35 till I get an actuator (ordered today via ebay). It's not a daily driven rig, I actually commute mostly by bike during the week and don't need to tow anything.

I'm gonna follow your recommendation for max pressure. When I get the top mount IC in place I'll take the pressure bung off the cool side of the IC, as apparently the pressure is a bit lower after.

Which brings another question, it wouldn't be hard to add a bung for the line to the wastegate post IC, is there any reason I shouldn't? It's not a long line off a top mount.