question on draglink install
Nothin' to it. Put the new one in the same way the old one was, tighten the nuts, put in the cotter keys and you're done.
Got a steering stabilizer? They help a lot! I have a single one mine and it improved the wandering considerably. Thinking about upgrading to a dual stabilizer at some point.
Got a steering stabilizer? They help a lot! I have a single one mine and it improved the wandering considerably. Thinking about upgrading to a dual stabilizer at some point.
I appreciate the responses. I picked up a drag link/tie rod removal tool at Auburn tool today. I see that It loks pretty easy. I was just concerned about accidentally clocking my steering wheel after the install.
As far as the tie rod, can tie rod end be purchased for replacement of the old, or does the tie rod as a whole need to be replaced? At either rate, where can these be purchased? I do not want cheaply produced products, so keep in mind if you have reccomendations/links. Part #'s would be cool!
As far as the tie rod, can tie rod end be purchased for replacement of the old, or does the tie rod as a whole need to be replaced? At either rate, where can these be purchased? I do not want cheaply produced products, so keep in mind if you have reccomendations/links. Part #'s would be cool!
Yes, Individual tie rod ends are available. Check at a local parts store.
Ask for Moog, Good quality. Store brand stuff is probably made in China.
To get a stuborn rod end off. turn the wheel on the side that you're working on, to the outside. Gives you room to work, obviously but also puts the tierod and steering arm closer to being parallel with each other. Loosen the nut but leave it on with about 1/8 - 3/16 "gap between the nut and arm. This is for safety so that you don't go flying when the joint comes loose.Heat the steering arm up ( no need to get it red hot) put a prybar between the tierod and steering arm to put pressure as if to pry them apart. At the same time hit the end of the steering arm where the tapered pin of the rodend goes with a hammer, hit it hard. Straight at the end of the steering arm. this shocks the joint, allowing it to separete. Caveman crude but it works.
KEEP A SOAKING WET RAG HANDY to put out the fire after your're done.You will have a grease / rubber fire
It will probably ruin the dust boot but if the rodend is bad, so what.
Pickle forks work too but also ruin the dust boot , usually. Oh, A pickle fork is a two pronged fork availabel in two or three different sizes made to fit between the rodend and steering arm / draglink / balljoint. it's tapered to wedge them apart when you hit the end of the fork with a hammer.
Ray
Ask for Moog, Good quality. Store brand stuff is probably made in China.
To get a stuborn rod end off. turn the wheel on the side that you're working on, to the outside. Gives you room to work, obviously but also puts the tierod and steering arm closer to being parallel with each other. Loosen the nut but leave it on with about 1/8 - 3/16 "gap between the nut and arm. This is for safety so that you don't go flying when the joint comes loose.Heat the steering arm up ( no need to get it red hot) put a prybar between the tierod and steering arm to put pressure as if to pry them apart. At the same time hit the end of the steering arm where the tapered pin of the rodend goes with a hammer, hit it hard. Straight at the end of the steering arm. this shocks the joint, allowing it to separete. Caveman crude but it works.
KEEP A SOAKING WET RAG HANDY to put out the fire after your're done.You will have a grease / rubber fire
It will probably ruin the dust boot but if the rodend is bad, so what.
Pickle forks work too but also ruin the dust boot , usually. Oh, A pickle fork is a two pronged fork availabel in two or three different sizes made to fit between the rodend and steering arm / draglink / balljoint. it's tapered to wedge them apart when you hit the end of the fork with a hammer.
Ray
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