Question about accidentally draining Battery
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Joined: May 2004
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From: Golden, Colorado
Be interested to see what you have to do to get it fit in your auto truck...
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Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Southern California
In my possession is one 140-amp unit.
Paid for (before ^^^that^^^ one) and not yet received is a 160-amp unit.
Currently in negotiations is another 160-amp unit.
My aim is to actually install these identical-case units on the three most often driven trucks and have at least one complete ready-to-run spare unit carried in my truck for emergencies.
I am buying all of them identical, regardless of amp-rating.
My only concern in retrofitting these to the trucks is there is a bunch of coolant tubes and hoses close behind the alternator on the wife's I/C automatic engine that will probably interfere and have to be thought around.
Quote
and has lift-rings forged on the casing. ???
Which lines do you think you will have problems with?
It is a tight fit but it fits like it belongs there, the tube to the heat exchanger is moved out of the way.
The only thing that I am not sure of about would be if the intercooler pipe is in the way but I do not think so.
I tell you what, if size is any measuring stick, expecting the stock alternator to keep up with a 555-Leece-Neville is sort of like expecting a fat pony to do a big mules work; he might get it done, but he is gonna have to press the collar. 
Paid for (before ^^^that^^^ one) and not yet received is a 160-amp unit.
Currently in negotiations is another 160-amp unit.
My aim is to actually install these identical-case units on the three most often driven trucks and have at least one complete ready-to-run spare unit carried in my truck for emergencies.
I am buying all of them identical, regardless of amp-rating.
My only concern in retrofitting these to the trucks is there is a bunch of coolant tubes and hoses close behind the alternator on the wife's I/C automatic engine that will probably interfere and have to be thought around.
Quote
and has lift-rings forged on the casing. ???
Which lines do you think you will have problems with?
It is a tight fit but it fits like it belongs there, the tube to the heat exchanger is moved out of the way.
The only thing that I am not sure of about would be if the intercooler pipe is in the way but I do not think so.
I tell you what, if size is any measuring stick, expecting the stock alternator to keep up with a 555-Leece-Neville is sort of like expecting a fat pony to do a big mules work; he might get it done, but he is gonna have to press the collar.
The Leece Neville 110~555JHO idling 2000 shaft RPM will put out almost as much current 100~amps as the Nipponese will strain to put out at cruising speed 120~amps.
And the Leece Neville will do it continuously at up to 160~amps and never complain.
Quoted from elsewhere.
basically, the alternator makes barely enough voltage to maintain an even keel, it's not designed to fully power the needs of the vehicle, and fully recharge the battery.
to even fully charge the battery off the alternator takes a LONG time, (think hours on the highway) because 50% of the alternator's output is going to your accessories: ECM, PCM, AC, Digital dash, ABS...
Aah but you see with this alternator you cannot only run all of the trucks accessories but you could also charge the battery at an idle.
But if you were going to be stationary I would recommend rising to hood to help cool down the alternator.
If you were going to use this in such manner as to power an inverter or work lights while the truck is stationary I would supplement the alternator’s cooling with an electric fan, and an idle control.
If you ever needed so much power, not quite 1.21 giggawatts but
Leece Neville/ Prestolite has a setup used on Fire Trucks that have dual 270-amp alternators producing 340 amps at engine idle, and 540 amps crusing.
Being a pad mount you would have to make a bracket.
http://news.prestolite.com/us/produc...ual_alternator
Jim
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Joined: Oct 2005
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From: KENTUCKY
JIM LANE,
I don't know where I got the idea, but I had it in my head that your truck was a five-speed
; I see now that it is an automatic.
I will probably print off some of your pictures (with your permission, of course) and take them out to the truck so I can compare just what you have done with what I have to work with.
I can see what you did at the top bracket; but, what did you do at the bottom mount-bolt ??
The stock ND mount-bolt is a bunch smaller than the holes through the LN ears.
What is the hose or cable that has the short section of reddish hose zip-tied on as a wear-guard ??
Thanks.
I don't know where I got the idea, but I had it in my head that your truck was a five-speed
; I see now that it is an automatic.I will probably print off some of your pictures (with your permission, of course) and take them out to the truck so I can compare just what you have done with what I have to work with.
I can see what you did at the top bracket; but, what did you do at the bottom mount-bolt ??
The stock ND mount-bolt is a bunch smaller than the holes through the LN ears.
What is the hose or cable that has the short section of reddish hose zip-tied on as a wear-guard ??
Thanks.
Registered User
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,867
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From: Golden, Colorado
I'll answer this as best as I remember, steel sleeves in the LN ear, with a 3/8" grade 8 bolt through the engine mount with washer and lock nut.
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 6,457
Likes: 95
From: KENTUCKY
JIM,
You knew I was exagerating about the lift-rings, right ??
The ones I am gathering up are identical to the ones in your pictures.
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