Pyrometer Guage
Pyrometer Guage
ok so i got another gage today sice my last one got stolen before i installed it
my question is i got a guage from a KENWORTH big rig the guage seems fine theres the wire behind it the wire is broken off just before it enters the manifold
so im missing the probe that takes temperature in manifold the guy has another wire it has that probe fitting for the manifold at the end CAN i put the 2 together i stripped the metal wire theres 2 ordinary looking wires in there can i just put them together so i have a complete thing thats gona cost me 50$ also guys put in a few pics on where you drilled your probe
my question is i got a guage from a KENWORTH big rig the guage seems fine theres the wire behind it the wire is broken off just before it enters the manifold
so im missing the probe that takes temperature in manifold the guy has another wire it has that probe fitting for the manifold at the end CAN i put the 2 together i stripped the metal wire theres 2 ordinary looking wires in there can i just put them together so i have a complete thing thats gona cost me 50$ also guys put in a few pics on where you drilled your probe
Can't help you on the broken wiring but here's the info on mounting it.
http://www.tstproducts.com/pdffiles/instpy25b.pdf
http://www.tstproducts.com/pdffiles/instpy25b.pdf
I am pretty sure you can your just basically measuring either a voltage difference or a resistance I don't remember, I think it maybe a resistance in which case the conections you use for the wires you want to solder really well so you don't increase the resistance in the wire as it will throw the guage off. Also I believe that the guage is usually calibrated for a certain length of wire so it takes into acount the resistance in the wire so just keep that in mind.
I don't believe you can join the wires. A thermocouple works by having 2 wires of different type material. The materials used vary depending on how high the temperature difference is you want to measure. These create a small voltage when there is a temperature difference from one end (where the wires are joined in the manifold) to the other end (the pyrometer in the cab). So the wires need to be the same material consistantly from one end to the other. Shortening the wires isn't an issue. You would also have a very difficult time soldering them since the metals used don't alloy very well (if at all) with solder. Most connections at the gauge are made with crimping or clamping connectors. You're simply measuring the difference in temperature between your exhaust manifold and your cab.
Pay the $120 for a new one and be done with it. You'll probly end up spending near that much trying to get this one to work, along with the frustration, no directions, chasing down correct wires/parts etc. Plus a warrantee if it doesn't work or fails. www.piersdiesel.com for gauges.
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Originally Posted by bgilbert
Oh and thermocouples typically ain't cheap (good ones).
Thermocouples are the same...as long as you get the right type. Most automotive thermocouples are type "K" I believe. The different types use different materials for the wires and measure different temperature ranges.
Originally Posted by Tuckerdee
Thermocouples are the same...as long as you get the right type. Most automotive thermocouples are type "K" I believe. The different types use different materials for the wires and measure different temperature ranges.
Ok how bout this, you buy a thermocouple. Only to find out its the wrong type or won't work with your app and or the gauge doesn't work. You try to return it, only to have the shop say it was a special order item, we can not take it back. Ok, you're heart is still set on that KW gauge. You buy another thermocouple. Once again, won't work or now you find out the gauge is no good.... hmm.. see where I'm going. You just might end up with more $$ than a brand new warranteed guaranteed to work gauge...
Then again, you might get lucky, have a neat KW gauge and save $10
. Or I'm just a pesismest (sp).
Edit: You do know when you buy a pyrometer from a vendor you get the whole kit, gauge, lead wire and thermocouple and instructions yes?
Then again, you might get lucky, have a neat KW gauge and save $10
. Or I'm just a pesismest (sp).Edit: You do know when you buy a pyrometer from a vendor you get the whole kit, gauge, lead wire and thermocouple and instructions yes?
Originally Posted by bgilbert
Ok how bout this, you buy a thermocouple. Only to find out its the wrong type or won't work with your app and or the gauge doesn't work. You try to return it, only to have the shop say it was a special order item, we can not take it back. Ok, you're heart is still set on that KW gauge. You buy another thermocouple. Once again, won't work or now you find out the gauge is no good.... hmm.. see where I'm going. You just might end up with more $$ than a brand new warranteed guaranteed to work gauge...
Then again, you might get lucky, have a neat KW gauge and save $10
. Or I'm just a pesismest (sp).
Edit: You do know when you buy a pyrometer from a vendor you get the whole kit, gauge, lead wire and thermocouple and instructions yes?
Then again, you might get lucky, have a neat KW gauge and save $10
. Or I'm just a pesismest (sp).Edit: You do know when you buy a pyrometer from a vendor you get the whole kit, gauge, lead wire and thermocouple and instructions yes?
My two cents worth = the local truck parts house probably sells a dozen or more thermo-couples a week.
Regardless of pyrometer origin, they have either 1/4 NPT or 1/8 NPT thread size and 3 probe lengths.
Any automotive probe will work with any automotive pyrometer.
The difference in probes is application, not resistance.
I wouldn't be opposed to using the KW gauge and a used probe from another truck.
Regardless of pyrometer origin, they have either 1/4 NPT or 1/8 NPT thread size and 3 probe lengths.
Any automotive probe will work with any automotive pyrometer.
The difference in probes is application, not resistance.
I wouldn't be opposed to using the KW gauge and a used probe from another truck.



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