some times we over look the obvious.. did you get the indexing on the throttle shaft right? 2 o'clock and 4 o'clock and is your shutdown solenoid getting 12 volts... just a thought

 

how strong is the fuel flow when ya crack the injector lines? also is the tip still intact on your shutdown solenoid plunger?

 

I have 12 volts to the fuel shut off and I'm 99 percent sure the throttle is positioned correctly. I pulled the plunger out and changed the oring on the solenoid. It looked fine to me but to be honest that is the first time I have ever taken one out so I can't really be sure. It was no torn that I could see. The fuel flow out the injector lines is poor at best.

 

yea poor flow at the lines usually indicates a problem with that fulcrum/slider, debris in the shutdown solenoid port, debris in the ports feeding the distrution head or plugged delivery valves, those are the easy issues, if that fulcrum is actually warped the fuel screw might not have enough travel to actually allow fuel into the head etc..

 

I put new copper washers in under the delivery valves when I resealed the pump and the valves were clean. I think I will pull out the shut down solenoid tonight and double check that. Maybe gut it and see what happens. If that doesn't work I wonder if I tried turning the fuel screw in a bit and see if that helps. Looks like it can go in quite a bit yet. Maybe I goofed up on the measurement when I took it out the first time. When I took the pump apart for the reseal I every thing looked pretty clean in there, no gunk, rust or debris that I could see anywhere and I was pretty careful to keep things clean as I reassembled it. Although I did not really check the fuel passages in the head.

 

I pulled my fuel shut off solenoid last night and it looked fine. I hooked it to the battery and it functions fine. I also verified again that I had 12 volts to it. I turned the fuel screw it a turn at a time and still nothing. I don't know there must be a plugged passage or something. When I tore my pump apart I did not dissassemble the vane pump in the front. Is that prone to failure?

 

if ya got a whole lota miles on the pump it might be wore out otherwise ya might wanna revisit that fulcrum lever if its warped at all it can prevent any fuel from getting past other than a lil dribble, its rare for ports to get plugged in the VE cause its basically full of detergent flowing through it constantly, I've bought trucks that sat for over a decade and they fired right up including a 1966 Peterbilt semi tractor that sat for 30 years inside of pump was spotless fired up with 4 new batteries didn't even get all of the 30 year old fuel outa the tanks cause I "thought" I'd closed off the crossover valve to the passenger tank turned out the valve was bad but even 30 year old fuel ran it fine...

IF ya have actually got enough miles on that pump to wear out the vanes then that pump needs a total rebuild... I'm thinking your problems in the back half of the pump,

another options to verify pump timing, what you would be looking for is a complete failure to show anything on dial indicator, a slightly outa time pump will not keep it from running but if ya are getting no movement at dial indicator or way excessive then theres a problem and since it tried to start maybe its just off enough that its not catching.. hopefully BUT I'm still betting on that fulcrum being bent just enough its not sliding the port open sufficiently

 

Not sure how many miles would be on that pump, I took it off of a parts truck. I kind of think they would be fine as I said earlier the inside of that pump was pristine. Kinda just grasping at straws. I did change out my fuel filter last night just to check. It was not on long but I thought I would try. Still nothing. I also pulled my injection lines again last night and put a gauge in to check the timing. Actually more to verify that the plunger was going in and out. It is. tonight I will check the timing with the gauge just because. I kind of think even if my timing was way off I would still get fuel shooting out of the lines better then it is. I kind of think if it is nice enough out this week end I will pull the pump off of my other truck and see what happens. On a side note I did disassemble the original pump from this truck and think I figured out what is wrong with it. It started poorly and ran terrible lots of white smoke. The pressure regulator on the front of the pump puked it's guts out. So I'm waiting on a seal kit for it and I'll try to repair it too. Might eventually get one to run. LOL

 

oh man.. hate to tell ya but.. thats how it starts now that ya've got inside one and seen its not as bad as everyone thinks your gonna be volunteering to reseal freinds pumps then pretty soon ya'll have parts bins of spare VE parts, next ya'll be doin video tutorials on rebuildin first gen VE Pumps

 

That is assuming I can get a truck to run after I've had the pump out and apart. LOL

 

just for chuckles ya oughta swap the fulcrum outa that pump with the bad regulator and see if it doesn't cure your current problem...ya can remove it without pullin the head ya just can't put it back in without pullin the head..

 

Because you can't bleed out the pump I suspect you have the same problem as I, one or more injectors stuck open. Our delivery valves don't prevent air from being pumped in reverse through the high pressure lines back into the pump, so you'll never be able to bleed the pump with an injector stuck open. I learned this from Eric at the Hungry Diesel. I suggest you read my thread posted yesterday titled "Please help, cant bleed 1989 pump on 1993 motor". Good luck and, if this solves your problem, thank Eric.

 

except he isn't having trouble bleeding out the pump, ya might wanna read post #1

 

I did read your post and it did make me wonder if that wasn’t my issue but the more I think about it the more I think it is not likely. Right, wrong or otherwise I have always started bleeding my pump and lines by leaving them all a touch loose and cranking the engine over till fuel is squirting out of all the lines. I then tighten them all down and crank the engine over while loosening one at a time until they all function. I can’t even get that initial bleed. Fuel just piddles out of the injection lines and there always seems to be air in it. Unless I guess even with them all slightly loose compression can still force its way back up the line?
This all started with a leaky injection line. I drove my truck into my shop. It did miss on one cylinder. Swapped a new line on and then I figured I would put in the gov spring while I was under the hood.

 

That is a really good clue. Have you tried finding an unrelated air leak? Suction side air leaks can be a real pain. Put a few pounds of air pressure into the fuel tank, go get a cup of coffee and see if anything is dripping. I would also check your oil for diesel fuel in case the front seal is leaking. I am not a pump expert, just a couple of ideas...Mark