As many know I'm going thru diesel withdrawl due to a failing VE pump (failed emissions and leaking at throttle shaft). I've got a "good" used pump coming in hopefully this coming week, but the seller didn't set the motor to TDC before pulling the pump.

I think I understand setting my engine to TDC, and will do so before pulling the bad pump, but, (question #1) How do I reset the new pump to TDC before installing? I'll be keeping my modded factory injectors (pop pressure increased, tip mod to change spray angle, pattern, and atomization), so we'll see where I'm at with just the pump to start with.

After I get thru emissions testing I'll start tweaking the new pump a little at a time. (question #2) What's the best order of FREE changes to make to bring up the power AND keep the fuel milage up? I don't want or need a bunch of smoke, but after having almost 240 RWHP going back to near stock is going to be tough.

Hopefully I'll be sending my bad pump back to the guy who modded it for a rebuild/reset, and going back to the higher HP set-up before camping/boating season starts next year. I may even look at a turbo upgrade this spring, depending on how things go....

Sorry fo the long post, but, even though I've had the truck for about 7 years, I've never had to do anything to the engine beyond normal maintenance, so I'm still a self-proclaimed newb.

 

the new pump should come back out of rebuild with the shaft pinned at TDC for #1 cyl... the keyway should be facing down...

 

Understand a rebuilt should be timed already, but how do I time the "used" pump that wasn't set to TDC before being removed?

 

If you line up the key with the keyway and set the pump about halfway through the adjustment range it will be close enough to start. You can play with it from there, either the redneck way (white smoke means it's too retarded, nasty clatter means too advanced, find a happy spot in the middle) or by getting a timing tool (screws into the port in the middle of the pump head and uses a dial indicator) to set it to spec.

 

That sounds easy enough!!! So it's basically goof proof. Does the truck even have to be TDC, or can I just line up the keyway and plug the pump in? Then line up the match mark as a starting point? I'd "assume" that most marks are fairly close from the factory?

Anything to change since I'm installing a '90 non-IC pump in a '93 IC truck? I know the KSB is different, but what about fittings, etc?

 

TruckU's last question X2. I am about to take my VE pump off to rebuild it. I get from this thread that if I line the keyway back up correctly and set the adjustment in the middle it's foolproof? But do we need to set TDC first to avoid any troubles?

 

The pump only goes in one way...it is truly 'goof-proof' The caveat to that statement is that it's not a bad idea to rotate the engine so the the keyway is at the 12 o'clock position--much less chance of dropping the keyway into the timing case that way

Factory timing marks are not really all that close. Like Dave said, without the timing tool, you've really only got one choice--split the difference and then time it by ear.

 

Okay, if the engine/pump gear are at 12:00 and the pump isn't which way do you rotate the shaft, as it's probably not the best idea to turn it backwards...

And thanks to everyone who's responded, I think I'll try swapping the pump myself, and have a friend with a diesel shop recheck the timing after it's running.

 

I don't think any damage would result from turning it backwards, but the pump rotates clockwise if you're looking at the shaft.

 

hey TruckU, I just read here
http://dodgeram.info/tsb/recalls/605.htm
that TDC timing puts the keyway at 5:30 position. so I'll take a guess that rotating the engine somewhere about one revolution will put the keyway in the 12 position. (exhaust stroke in number one?) works for gas engines anyway!

Also the recall bulletin linked above stresses that you DO NOT turn engine counterclockwise (clockwise on the tool) with the timing lock pin ingauged or it will mess up the engine timing! I'm going to use the "fingers off the lock pin, lock pin out!" rule and just shoot for 12 oclock on the keyway! Seems safer! Good luck to both of us!

 

hey g1625s, wasn't disputing your last post! Just funny thread post timing where we were talking about the same things. I private messaged you to ask another ve timing question but it doesn't look like my private messages are working.

Any way for us to tell what position our ve pump keyways are while the pumps are still on the engines? It would be good to pull them out when facing up too I would guess?

 

Yep, it looks like the books say it is ok to rotate backwards so long as the locking pin is not engauged. I'm just going to not use the locking pin at all if I can help it!!

 

PM sent Once the timing pin has engaged the cam gear, it isn't safe to turn the engine in any direction, as the cam gear will simply shear the pin of and the carnage will eventually fall into the timing case. I 'think' the pin is plastic, so it won't likely cause any damage to the works, but it will leave a nice hole in the back of the timing cover for oil to leak out of

 

I pulled my pump out at the 12 o clock position and the pump I put on was locked at the 5:30 position and the guy at the shop said not to turn the shaft on the pump so I turned the engine backwards with the whole timing pin assy OUT looking at the pump gear and set it about till 5:30 . Stuck my finger in the hole where the timing pin was and could feel the hole in the gear... that confirmed tdc#1 for me. then I lodged the key in the IP shaft and installed. Luckily the pin didn't fall out. My truck runs perfect now.. I advanced the timing a bit from where the lines were lining up, result was lower boost and egt. Max boost around 32 psi at 2500 rpm + on a pump that still has the tamper proof cap on the fuel screw... they say they turned it up 10% from stock. the max allowed legally? I'm happy with it.

 

It is plastic, so no harm done really. Just the tip breaks off so there's no oil leak.