Well I have a bit of a dilemma. I tried installing my 3200rpm governor spring and every thing was going well until I got to the top right 5mm allen bolt (closest to the motor, by the low idle screw). Try as a friend and I might, we could not get that thing to budge and we ended up rounding the bolt head out . No problem, we'll just weld a bolt to the bolt's head and break it loose that way. Wrong again, the bolt we welded on kept shearing off . So now that bolt has a glob of weld and bolt on it and it doesn't look like I'll be getting the pump top off with the IP still on the truck.

So after thinking about it I have two options:
1) Pull the pump myself. This is where I have a few questions. Can I do this with your average mechanic's tools or do I need some special pullers/tools? Also what do I have to watch and record in terms of timing? Any tips to pulling it off or things to watch for?

2) Take my truck to injection shop and have them pull the pump off and put in the 3200rpm spring.

Obviously I'd rather do option #1 since its cheaper and I would gain a bunch more knowledge of my truck. But I'm scared of messing something up royally so option #2 also looks good. Now I'm not just pulling the pump off to do the gov spring, my VE is also weeping a bit so I'm going to put new seals in it all around. Kill two birds with one stone so to speak.

Any help and/or suggestions are appreciated


P.S. For those who have yet to do the gov spring install, I can offer one piece of advice. For the lower right 5mm allen bolt (back of the pump by the high idle screw), unbolt the throttle linkage and bracketry, the bolt is a ton easier to get onto and remove with that stuff out of the way.

 

BTDT, same bolt. Drill the head of the bolt off, it's very soft. You can replace it with a bolt from the hardware store, it's not special aside from being metric.

If you do pull the pump, the only special thing you'll need is a steering wheel puller for the pump gear. An "S" wrench or obstruction wrench is needed for the bottom nut on the front of the pump.

Just mark where the pump is relative to the timing case and you can put it right back where it came from. The shaft is keyed so pump position is the only thing that affects timing. Speaking of the key, don't drop it (or the nut) in the timing case. Put a screwdriver against the end of the pump shaft when removing the nut and washer, and slide them down the screwdriver until they are outside the case. Turn the engine so the keyway is pointed up before pulling the pump gear.

 

Dave are you saying that I could possibly get away doing the install without yanking the pump off? I really don't want to do it since I need this truck as a daily driver and snowmobile hauler. I'm pretty sure these bolts aren't threaded all the way, which is is why you say I could drill the head off and pull the pump top and unthread whats left of the bolt after?

If thats the case, it looks like I'm gonna be a busy guy for the next couple of hours .

 

Right, just drill the head off and try not to go too deep. Stop frequently to check your progress. Did you retard the pump all the way for more working room? That helps a lot.

Hopefully the weld material isn't too hard to drill.

 

The one I was involved with, we were able to unscrew the bolt by hand after we drilled the head off.

 

Ok thanks a bunch, I'll keep that in mind. I didn't retard the timing all the way. I don't have those fancy s-wrenchs . I think I can get by though. I just went out and bought a new set of titanium coated drill bits. I got sick of the el-cheapo bits going dull and snapping so I spent a few bucks on these.

I'll post my progress in a bit. Wish me luck!

Lucas

 

Well I found out that a dremel is one heck of handy tool. I ground down just about all of the weld material and now I'm kind of in a pickle. I can't get the drill bit to sit in the bolt head because the fuel lines are in the way. I'd like to loosen the pump a bit and retard the timing as much as possible to give me the little bit of room I need. The problem is as I said in my above post, I don't have those fancy "S" wrenches. Is there any way I can loosen the three nuts without the S wrench?

Thanks

EDIT: never mind I went to princess auto and got a set of "s" wrenchs. Now the fun begins!

 

Mission accomplished! The governor spring is in and checked off of my to-do list of BOMBs. I had a leak at the throttle shaft at first and the shaft was out a bit. I reclocked the shaft and played with it a bit and bam, no more leak and the truck runs like it should. And does it ever run now! Much more fun now that it doesnt run out of power so soon.

Next on my list, bump the timing hehe.