So I’ve got some money saved up and I’m planning on upgrading my truck quite a bit this summer, right now it’s kinda just your basic first gen, it’s got a fuel pin, and 3200 rpm spring, 4” MBRP turbo back, gauges, and a tach, this summer after we get done with harvest I’m planning on installing a set of 5x.018 nozzles, an S362 or something like it, 60 lbs valve springs, a 4200 rpm spring, and a set of arp head studs, my question is, would I be better off “back yarding” it and leaving the head on or should I pull the head and do the head gasket while I’m at it? the truck probably has 150,000+ miles on it but I don’t know exactly how many because my great grandpa cut the wire when he owned the truck so I know it has 127,000+ but I don’t know exactly how many, the head has never been off the truck but it runs great for a truck that’s almost 30 years old, so should I pull the head and replace the head gasket or leave it on and hope?

 

My old cliche is "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."

 

That makes sense but my thinking was I could pull the head and replace the head gasket when I put in the 60 lb valve springs because to be quite honest I’m scared I’m gonna drop a valve and end up pulling the head anyway.

 

Are there any fluids leaking from anywhere in the head?

I had oil leaking from the exhaust side even though there was no oil on that side of the block.

I had oil draining out of the hot side of the turbo.

Any leaks from the tappet cover?

I was reluctant to pull the head since I have never had the engine open except to adjust the valves and to change the tappet cover gasket.

But if you collect all of your tools and take your time, it is really not a difficult job but be prepared because the head is heavy.

Mine was opened with surgical precision and it wasn't a bad job my sister helped me so she had a learning experience having hands on inside a Cummins engine.

Follow along in my post to see what's in store for you if you decide to go in.

Blown Head Gasket;

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...9/#post3337468

It is Alive..

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...5/#post3342707

Hope this helps even if is just a little.

Jim

 

What year truck? Automatic or manual trans?

You haven't said how you're gonna use the power.

Weekday worker/weekend warrior? Grocery-getter/occasional four-horse trailer? full-tilt dragster? How so?

 

It’s a 92’ d350 with a 5 speed, it will be my daily driver and occasionally pull a boat trailer or small horse trailer on the weekend, my plan was to go with a borg Warner S362 as I’ve read that anything bigger would be extremely laggy, it has some very minor power steering leaks and an almost un noticeable oil leak but nothing compared to what I’ve read that other people have, it’s never had the head off, my plan was to pull the head and install the 60 lb valve springs then put in the head studs when I put the head back on, the reason I thought it’d be better to pull the head was because I have bad luck and I really don’t want to drop a valve then end up pulling the head half way through installing the valve springs.

 

My 2 cents: If you saved up money, and are going to buy the best quality of everything, why wouldn't you do the HG? That is a rhetorical question by the way. That is just how I look at it, but the HG may very well have many miles left in it, so who knows? (another rhetorical question). Either way it sounds like a fun project...Mark

 

I think I’m gonna go with maybe368’s theory on this, if I’m gonna put in the money and time to replace the valve springs and head stud it I just as well replace the head gasket while I’m at it, I’d rather spend a couple hundred dollars now then a couple thousand in a few months when I float the head running 3 or 4 times the amount of boost it’s getting with the factory turbo, and I’ll probably replace the valve cover gaskets, the exhaust manifold gaskets and the turbo gasket while I’m at it just to be safe

 

As an FYI, you do not have to pull the head to replace the valve-springs . . .
Upgrade your valve springs

As another FYI: Here's a general primer for the replacement of our head-gasket . . .
Replace your 12v CTD head-gasket

Hope this helps.

 

BC847, I know I don’t have to pull the head to install the valve springs but my thinking behind pulling the head was that I could install them without having to worry about dropping a valve then end up having to pull the head anyway, and I’m going to replace the head gasket while I’m already working on everything else just so I have the peace of mind that I’m not gonna have to do it again in a month, but thanks for your input!

 

Just because you just did a HG doesn't guarantee you will not be doing it again in a month. I sometimes feel changing stuff that is not a problem creates its own problems. A lot of of it depends on the care, cleanliness and prep. taken during the work.

Take you time, keep things clean and follow the torque specs and procedures and you should be good.

 

If you are pulling the head before you blow a gasket because you are worried about blowing a gasket, I would recommend you have the head O-ringed while you're at it to be sure you never have to worry about a failed head gasket.

 

Anyone have any idea how much boost you can run with 60 lb valve springs, arp head studs, and a stock head gasket without having to worry about floating the head? I’m planning on running a borg Warner S362.