I rebuilt my power window motor today via the instructions in the sticky threads and the job was pretty straightforward (or so I thought). When I finished the job, I hooked the motor to the switch to see if it worked and the gear was turning fine in both directions. I then continued to reinstall the motor and when I did my window still would not roll up or down.

Is it possible I messed up the rebuild even though the motor was working before I installed it? Is there anything else I should be checking?

Thanks,
cody

 

I'd make sure the window isn't stuck and that you don't have a broken wire in the harness between the door post and the door. It might work if the door is in just the right spot but otherwise...

 

I ran into 3 different things on my 93 drivers door. The window quit working but you could bump the motor and it would work for maybe 2 cycles. I tore it apart and nothing obvious was wrong, the gears looked good and well greased. The motor would cycle endlessly with no load. So I pulled the motor apart and the brushes were semi stuck in the holders and corroded. Cleaned the brushes and amature the best I could and got the brushes to slide freely in the holders freely. I re-assembled the motor and re-installed it. It worked great and twice as fast but I found the geared semi round gear rubbing the lift arm. So I greased the gear and slightly bent the arm as not to rub. Then I ran the window up and down many times but I still had a noise. I pulled the vent right inside the door behind the door handle and used a spray lube Micro-Mist and lubed all the moving part to the point it was dripping into the bottom of the door. Then I greased all the tracks with the same lube then used grease to pack in the track work. Before I re-assemble the mess I ran the window down and sprayed the lube in the felt window tracks using way too much made a mess. Now the window flies up and down rapidly. 2 weeks later i'm still cleaning the window and wiping the lube from the bottom of the door. Hope this helps ya and sorry about the long reply. Good luck with your window.

 

Thanks for the quick reply. The window is not stuck...I can physically move it up or down by pressing my hand on the glass. With the motor reinstalled, I can hear the motor run so wouldn't that rule out a broken wire? This thing is becoming a PITA....

 

Oh and as wannadiesel said check the wires closely and clean all the connectors and connections. In between the door and cab I found a wire that was broken also but it still had a little contact. You have to unwrap the harness to find it though. Good luck with it.

 

Look at your "mechanism" that pushes the glass up and down. Mine broke at the stud/pivot point and acted the same as yours. Motor spins freely but no glass movement.

 

How hard/easy of a fix was that?

 

Had to replace the regulator. Junkyard item, but find a rusty, dented door so it's cheap.
Looks like an "X", or scissors.

 

When the window motor is running does it run at normal speed or does it slow down?

Did you replace the 3 slugs in the clutch or did you replace the gear with a replacement, some of them have a different diameter and pitch gear and will not mesh with the gear in the regulator.

If the window will roll down but not up you might have a broken spring or the anchor pin broken on the regulator, I had to repair mine.

Try and move the window up or down a few inches and try again, you might have a tooth missing from the gear.

I think I have some pictures of the regulator but I will have to look for them.
Jim

 

Check the bulkhead connector (firewall) I completely bypassed mine to the ignition switch. made a HUGE difference in the windows,and the heater blower speed. That connector has a lot of amperage going through it and after 20 years, it will have a LOT of resistance (most are melted)

 

I take it you ran a new big wire from a battery-HOT source under the hood, through the fire-wall grommet, and then spliced into the proper wire under the dash.

Which wire ?? What color/stripe ?? Where under there did you locate it.

I agree that the bulk-head connector is cause of a lot of electrical problems.


Thanks.