Power window dilemma
 

My passenger side window is having a little issue with itself. It will go down all the way but only up an inch before it stops. The frame/track has been sprayed with a little silicone thinking it was just hanging up...clearly not the case. Do the switches go bad where you can only go one way? (driver side switch for pass does the something). I played the jiggle game with the wires and that didn't do anything. Recommendations?

Edit- I have power going to the back through the little test window of the connector when I push the up button on both pass/driver switches.

They are a series wound (brush) motor. Often brushes will fail in one direction before the other. In other words, sounds like it's motor time.

Forgot to mention that...brand new motor, its doing the same with the new one as it did with the old one.

On the back of the regulator there is a big flat wound spring that will sometimes break or the pivot it connects to that helps lift the window and will cause what you describe, also if the drivers side switch is bad, the passenger side will not work.
Jim

The two weak points I've found in Dodge power windows are the switches, and the wires that go through the door hinge area. The right door wiring goes through both door hinges.

Hmm
2 relays maybe 3 per door should be able to switch polarity and speed up the windows,
Have to sleep on this one.

You engineers can't leave anything alone. My windows are already fast enough to be dangerous.

2 regular old relays per door. Set it up so that they both connect the window motor to ground. Then wire one to trip to power for "UP", and the other to trip to power for "DOWN".
And have to over-complicate everything.

I want to put mine on relays with a pair of toggle switches in the dash. If I could find a good spot for the switches.

That is too far involved for this truck lol. So my next option would be to replace the regulator for that door? or could it be in the actual switch itself?

From what Jim says, it looks like there's a counter spring (or it's attachment) on the regulator that is probably broken.

I will check into picking a new regulator up. I did another test, hold up button and pull the window and it is like it is seized in place. I have to unbolt the motor in order to pull up the window. If LMC has a regulator I will try to order that this week.

Can you test the motor with out any load? My old MB has motors that can actually burn windings before blowing a fuse if the window is either all the way up or down, and someone does not release the power button.

I do not know if the older Dodge is the same way.

I can try to pull the motor out and test it. Kind of sucks buying a brand new motor and that being the issue still. The power from pass side switch when the test light was on it would flicker here and there then go out all a sudden...but the driver side would stay lit if I held it or not, whole thing has a weird thing going on about it. (can't make sense of it in my head) lol

Not saying it is,
but if it is,

The pivot in the center of the spring broke loose on mine, I could lift the window manually and the motor lifted it with no problem, the spring tries to compensate for the weight of the window.

I pulled mine out and was able to MIG the pivot back to the gear and it has been working fine for years.

My sticky shows you how to drill the door so you can easily remove the motor.

Have you ever noticed that power windows always break in the down position when it starts to rain.

Jim

Your switch may be dirty or going bad as well.