Pointed questions for those who've tweaked the VE timing
I've finally gotten a set of S-Wrenches! Granted, I'll probably never use them again, but they're worth ever penny when messing with the pump timing. 
Anyhoot . . . . . .
I've now started messing with my VE pump timing. Stock, it was at 1.25mm. Engine mods are included in my Sig.
To date, I've been running the fuel screw so as to keep the EGT's at approx 1200*F, and boost at 38psig when running 0 to 75mph, full throttle (I don't really pull anything, just a lot of goofing around at stoplights
).
In doing a search of these forum boards regarding pump timing, I find the thread "It's all in the Timing" to be one of the more enlightening.
My questions are:
1) When folks speak of their EGT's a boost came down, are they (you) referring to full throttle, or part throttle?
2) While I've noticed an apparent smoothing of the engine, I don't really hear any difference in the overall sound of the engine. RE: no increase in the rattle. Does the rattle come on quickly, as you get closer to the "I wouldn't go that far" range?
3) I've noticed the mid to upper throttle response is nicely improved. Is this where you folks are seeing the improvements?
Thus far, I've moved my mess to the tall side of 1/8th" (perhaps a little past). With that, I've not seen the EGT's nor boost drop at full throttle. Still at 1200*F +/-, and 38psig boost.
In reading the other threads, the figure of 1.92mm appears to be one of the best settings, if not ideal.
I guess I'm wondering (all without the luxury of the proper tools) if I can just push it forward till it rattles, and then back off a bit . . . . . . . .. scary ain't it.

Anyhoot . . . . . .
I've now started messing with my VE pump timing. Stock, it was at 1.25mm. Engine mods are included in my Sig.
To date, I've been running the fuel screw so as to keep the EGT's at approx 1200*F, and boost at 38psig when running 0 to 75mph, full throttle (I don't really pull anything, just a lot of goofing around at stoplights
).In doing a search of these forum boards regarding pump timing, I find the thread "It's all in the Timing" to be one of the more enlightening.

My questions are:
1) When folks speak of their EGT's a boost came down, are they (you) referring to full throttle, or part throttle?
2) While I've noticed an apparent smoothing of the engine, I don't really hear any difference in the overall sound of the engine. RE: no increase in the rattle. Does the rattle come on quickly, as you get closer to the "I wouldn't go that far" range?
3) I've noticed the mid to upper throttle response is nicely improved. Is this where you folks are seeing the improvements?
Thus far, I've moved my mess to the tall side of 1/8th" (perhaps a little past). With that, I've not seen the EGT's nor boost drop at full throttle. Still at 1200*F +/-, and 38psig boost.
In reading the other threads, the figure of 1.92mm appears to be one of the best settings, if not ideal.
I guess I'm wondering (all without the luxury of the proper tools) if I can just push it forward till it rattles, and then back off a bit . . . . . . . .. scary ain't it.
If your planning on going past 1/8" adv. I would advise you to use a gauge. The 1/8" adv will get you in the 1.86 or 16.25* range, the difference between the setting your at and 1.92 or 16.50 is not much thicker than a hair. What I'm saying is it doesn't take much movement to make a big difference. These numbers are on my personal truck, but each pump will time slightly different.
Thanks for replying but, no, I'm not necessarily planning on going past 1/8", and I realize it doesn't take much. 
I guess in a perfect world
, one would know perzactly how much (1/16, 1/8, 3/16") to go from 1.25 to that ideal 1.92 (or there abouts)

I guess in a perfect world
, one would know perzactly how much (1/16, 1/8, 3/16") to go from 1.25 to that ideal 1.92 (or there abouts)
You should see an EGT drop any time the engine is loaded. It's not a huge difference, but I'd expect 50 degrees. Your boost isn't lower because of the wastegate. When I (briefly) had a 16 cm housing I was able to lower boost by 5 psi just by cranking the pump as far to the head as I could get it.
It'll let you know when you've gone way too far. When it sounds like a 6.2 liter GM diesel, you went too far.
For your application I wouldn't worry about going too far unless you start to hear a lot of clatter. You're really not working the motor hard.
Yes, mid to upper RPM is what advanced timing helps.
Isn't that "S" wrench the best $10 tool you've ever bought?
It'll let you know when you've gone way too far. When it sounds like a 6.2 liter GM diesel, you went too far.
For your application I wouldn't worry about going too far unless you start to hear a lot of clatter. You're really not working the motor hard.Yes, mid to upper RPM is what advanced timing helps.
Isn't that "S" wrench the best $10 tool you've ever bought?
Dave,
Right now I've got the waste gates reference hose pinched off. I tried to run a homemade boost controller and don't like the consisatancy it gives.
I wish I could find the actual, correct spring or actuator assembly for dumping at 35psig. To be sure it's made. I've just got to dig for it.
Well I reckon I can nudge it a little more then.
Yes Sirreee Bud!
I went ahead and splurged on a full set of both metric and SAE for 30ish bucks. http://www.maxtool.com/ (Cheap but effective
).
Right now I've got the waste gates reference hose pinched off. I tried to run a homemade boost controller and don't like the consisatancy it gives.
I wish I could find the actual, correct spring or actuator assembly for dumping at 35psig. To be sure it's made. I've just got to dig for it.

Well I reckon I can nudge it a little more then.

Isn't that "S" wrench the best $10 tool you've ever bought?
).
Originally posted by pwrtripls1
1/2" S-wrench is the one to use right? I tried a couple ways of getting to it and it wasn't happening.
1/2" S-wrench is the one to use right? I tried a couple ways of getting to it and it wasn't happening.

The bolt on the side is a no-brainer, the one under takes the S-wrench for sure. You'll have to work the wrench around some fittings so as to get enough stroke that you can advance the wrench to the next tooth as it were. The bolt up top took "moving" the fuel line up, again, so as to get enough turn.
An S-Wrench is handy for the little bolt, on the bracket, just below the injector lines as well.
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13 mm is the size. Harbor Freight sells a metric "S" wrench set (5 wrenches I think) for $10. They're Chinese crap, but for as many times as you're likely to use them why spend more? That's what I use for my truck (and a few others
).
).
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