Piston lift pump upgrade help
12-16-2017, 10:51 AM
#16
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If you're not going for high HP, then whats the benefit of upgrade to the 2nd gen pump? My truck runs awesome with minimal mods.
12-16-2017, 10:53 AM
#17
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The lack of a diaphragm that when compromised, allows fuel & oil to mix is part of a piston pump's relative virtue.
The added pressure also allows for more/faster dynamic timing advance, and the added volume of the high volume units allow for better fuel cooling.
That's why a High Volume Low Pressure (HVLP) 30mm pump is so beneficial to the VE trucks.
The added pressure also allows for more/faster dynamic timing advance, and the added volume of the high volume units allow for better fuel cooling.
That's why a High Volume Low Pressure (HVLP) 30mm pump is so beneficial to the VE trucks.
12-16-2017, 11:01 AM
#18
Registered User
The lack of a diaphragm that when compromised, allows fuel & oil to mix is part of a piston pump's relative virtue.
The added pressure also allows for more/faster dynamic timing advance, and the added volume of the high volume units allow for better fuel cooling.
That's why a High Volume Low Pressure (HVLP) 30mm pump is so beneficial to the VE trucks.
The added pressure also allows for more/faster dynamic timing advance, and the added volume of the high volume units allow for better fuel cooling.
That's why a High Volume Low Pressure (HVLP) 30mm pump is so beneficial to the VE trucks.
12-16-2017, 12:44 PM
#19
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12-16-2017, 03:51 PM
#20
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My previous pump was the diaphragm type. It didn't rupture. It just quit pumping. I suspect it too was made in China and broke internally after less than 10,000 miles. I could see where the lever had pulled loose from the shaft and the primer lever wouldn't even move it.
The piston pump is much simpler in that the pushrod pushes the piston back to draw fuel from the tank then the spring pushes the piston to send fuel out. The size of the piston with the tension of the spring determines the pressure.
The cheap no-name piston pump I bought put out somewhere north of 45 psi which is what pushed the seal out of my VE injection pump and filled my crankcase with fuel and cleaned everything so nicely. As an added benefit The underside of the truck is well lubed from the overflow as well as the face shield of the motorcyclist who told me about it on the 91 freeway in Corona.
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NJTman (12-16-2017)
12-16-2017, 06:28 PM
#21
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Thread Starter
The stock pump was weeping fuel so II installed the dieseltuff pump today. It was rather easy to do if you don't mind staying bent over the side of the truck for hours! Lol!
I had to remove the starter wires to get it in. I also had to do a little bending to the new output pipe as the fitting was canted a bit which would not allow the banjo bolt to line up.
The truck feels like it's got a little more pep to it. The throttle response seems to be more sensitive as well.
I had to remove the starter wires to get it in. I also had to do a little bending to the new output pipe as the fitting was canted a bit which would not allow the banjo bolt to line up.
The truck feels like it's got a little more pep to it. The throttle response seems to be more sensitive as well.
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mknittle (12-16-2017)
12-16-2017, 09:40 PM
#23
The stock pump was weeping fuel so II installed the dieseltuff pump today. It was rather easy to do if you don't mind staying bent over the side of the truck for hours! Lol!
I had to remove the starter wires to get it in. I also had to do a little bending to the new output pipe as the fitting was canted a bit which would not allow the banjo bolt to line up.
The truck feels like it's got a little more pep to it. The throttle response seems to be more sensitive as well.
I had to remove the starter wires to get it in. I also had to do a little bending to the new output pipe as the fitting was canted a bit which would not allow the banjo bolt to line up.
The truck feels like it's got a little more pep to it. The throttle response seems to be more sensitive as well.
12-17-2017, 10:21 AM
#25
FWIW, I recently installed an electric Isspro fuel pressure gauge. I'm running 5psi with the stock pump setup. It sounds like you do your research, but I'll pass on that you'll likely want to install a needle valve and/or snubber (I did both) inline before your gauge sensor to dampen the pulsing of the pump. I used Isspro's Snubber Kit R78826, which had everything I needed for my application in one convenient package. This link is the installation instructions for my gauge and there is a picture of the Snubber Kit on the third page - http://www.isspro.com/installation/IS169.pdf
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bigragu (12-17-2017)
12-17-2017, 10:35 AM
#26
I teed off of the bleed screw port, and one side of the tee picked up my fuel pressure gage, and the other became the port for the bleed. But instead of using the factory bleed screw, I used a 1/8” NPT pet **** valve, so to make fuel bleeding tool less. Works slick.
Yes, as reccomended make sure to use a snubber, to save that expensive fuel pressure gage, and it would be a good idea to install inline before the sending unit a ball valve. My sending unit went bad once, and it was convenient to shut off any fuel dribble from the stainless braided hose set up of mine to the sending unit when I replaced it.
I sourced my snubber from Geno’s garage, my lines and ball valve I had made custom at a hydraulic shop. My line is 1/4” stainless braided.
Yes, as reccomended make sure to use a snubber, to save that expensive fuel pressure gage, and it would be a good idea to install inline before the sending unit a ball valve. My sending unit went bad once, and it was convenient to shut off any fuel dribble from the stainless braided hose set up of mine to the sending unit when I replaced it.
I sourced my snubber from Geno’s garage, my lines and ball valve I had made custom at a hydraulic shop. My line is 1/4” stainless braided.
12-17-2017, 05:32 PM
#27
Registered User
Thread Starter
Thanks guys. I have a cheap Marshall mechanical 30 psi gauge from eBay and a needle valve to dampen the pulses. I bought the rest of the fittings from Napa.
12-17-2017, 05:43 PM
#28
Registered User
I was going to install a mechanical gauge in my truck until I read that running a fuel line into the cab is a 
without an isolator in the line in case of a leak. I priced the isolator and all I could find are over $100 so I decided to pass. 
without an isolator in the line in case of a leak. I priced the isolator and all I could find are over $100 so I decided to pass.
10-26-2018, 05:07 PM
#29
Registered User
10-28-2018, 09:09 AM
#30
Registered User
You could run a banjo bolt into the bleeder screw and then screw the mechanical gauge into the banjo.
Great tool for filter change interval.
Temporarily run a long grease gun hose and zip tie it to the cowl to determine WOT fuel pressure drop.
Great tool for filter change interval.
Temporarily run a long grease gun hose and zip tie it to the cowl to determine WOT fuel pressure drop.