OK, so convince me on Amsoil
05-24-2009, 08:47 PM
#31
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Bountiful, Utah
Posts: 2,128
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I plan on runnin amsoil with my next oil change cuz I am a preferred customer and can get it cheaper. Just pay $10 for 6 months or $20 for a year and you will become a preffered customer and you get anything from amsoil much cheaper! I run amsoil interceptor 2 cycle oil in my sleds and bikes and i really like it, so I'm gonna try it in the cummins and see how i like it. 15,000 miles to 25,000 miles til my next oil change sounds great to me! and cheaper in the long run!
05-25-2009, 05:55 AM
#32
Adminstrator-ess
Before you jump right into extended oil change intervals, get oil analysis done. Cranked up engines put more soot in the oil, and the oil can only hold so much soot before it starts dropping out of suspension and clumping up. Excessive soot was why I had to abandon extended oil changes.
If the cloud out your tailpipe is typical you would be better served by conventional oil changed at the factory interval.
For those interested in extended oil changes intervals, you should know that Amsoil and other synthetics are not required. Conventional oils can easily go 12-15k and even more depending on conditions and use. The important thing to remember is that you need to have oil analysis done to determine what interval is appropriate for you and your truck.
If the cloud out your tailpipe is typical you would be better served by conventional oil changed at the factory interval.
For those interested in extended oil changes intervals, you should know that Amsoil and other synthetics are not required. Conventional oils can easily go 12-15k and even more depending on conditions and use. The important thing to remember is that you need to have oil analysis done to determine what interval is appropriate for you and your truck.
05-25-2009, 07:08 AM
#33
Registered User
I've been there, done that with amzoil, and honestly can say that I didn't notice any increase in economy or performance to justify the higher cost. This is an internal combustion engine, so any oil in the crankcase with be subject to contamination. To achieve the extended drain intervals, you will see many users of this product installing additional filtering systems on their engines, which adds cost, and requires changing filters routinely and adding make-up oil. To safely extend the drain interval on your engine, you should send samples of used oil to a labortory for analysis, and this too adds cost again. I have seen numerous oil analysis reports of this particular brand oil thickening out of grade during extended use.
Synthetic lubricants in the driveline is another story. Internal combustion does not take place here, and the higher cost can be justified through safely extending the drain intervals.
As previously stated, the best virture of synthetic lubricants are temperature extemes. If cold cranking often in sub-zero weather, a synthetic engine oil may be of benefit. However, most published data on cold cranking viscosity is on new, fresh oil, one only knows what it is with accumulated mileage on it.
Synthetic lubricants in the driveline is another story. Internal combustion does not take place here, and the higher cost can be justified through safely extending the drain intervals.
As previously stated, the best virture of synthetic lubricants are temperature extemes. If cold cranking often in sub-zero weather, a synthetic engine oil may be of benefit. However, most published data on cold cranking viscosity is on new, fresh oil, one only knows what it is with accumulated mileage on it.
Before you jump right into extended oil change intervals, get oil analysis done. Cranked up engines put more soot in the oil, and the oil can only hold so much soot before it starts dropping out of suspension and clumping up. Excessive soot was why I had to abandon extended oil changes.
If the cloud out your tailpipe is typical you would be better served by conventional oil changed at the factory interval.
For those interested in extended oil changes intervals, you should know that Amsoil and other synthetics are not required. Conventional oils can easily go 12-15k and even more depending on conditions and use. The important thing to remember is that you need to have oil analysis done to determine what interval is appropriate for you and your truck.
If the cloud out your tailpipe is typical you would be better served by conventional oil changed at the factory interval.
For those interested in extended oil changes intervals, you should know that Amsoil and other synthetics are not required. Conventional oils can easily go 12-15k and even more depending on conditions and use. The important thing to remember is that you need to have oil analysis done to determine what interval is appropriate for you and your truck.
Both posts WELL SPOKEN.
If one follows the discussions of the high-dollar-oil/extended-drain-interval crowd, it will be noticed that by-pass filters, extreme-duty primary filters, and frequent oil-analysis are an accepted part of the game.
It soon becomes evident that economy is not so much the plan, as seeing just how clean and how long-lasting they can make a given batch of oil; sort of a hobby within a hobby.
I will not argue with the wisdom of high-quality oil, extreme filtration, and the mysterious information provided by religious oil-analysis; I wish my budget allowed for such.
Looking at all this from the poor man's side of the fence, it has been my observation that one dose of oil sent for analysis is about equivalent cost to a good FleetGuard filter and three-gallons of decent CI4 oil (providing you know where to shop), so any economy in "extended drain interval" has already gone out the window.
Looking at it from the "green" point of view, a poor man cannot afford the luxury of being "green", and must do as his limited means allows.
And besides, with my limited scientific abilities, I can barely discern bar-and-chain oil from 15W-40; how would I know if said laboratory actually "analyzed" my oil, or if they just dumped it down the drain and sent me a bunch of sophisticated bogus information that I barely understood ??
05-25-2009, 07:23 AM
#34
Adminstrator-ess
Both posts WELL SPOKEN.
If one follows the discussions of the high-dollar-oil/extended-drain-interval crowd, it will be noticed that by-pass filters, extreme-duty primary filters, and frequent oil-analysis are an accepted part of the game.
It soon becomes evident that economy is not so much the plan, as seeing just how clean and how long-lasting they can make a given batch of oil; sort of a hobby within a hobby.
If one follows the discussions of the high-dollar-oil/extended-drain-interval crowd, it will be noticed that by-pass filters, extreme-duty primary filters, and frequent oil-analysis are an accepted part of the game.
It soon becomes evident that economy is not so much the plan, as seeing just how clean and how long-lasting they can make a given batch of oil; sort of a hobby within a hobby.
I will not argue with the wisdom of high-quality oil, extreme filtration, and the mysterious information provided by religious oil-analysis; I wish my budget allowed for such.
Looking at all this from the poor man's side of the fence, it has been my observation that one dose of oil sent for analysis is about equivalent cost to a good FleetGuard filter and three-gallons of decent CI4 oil (providing you know where to shop), so any economy in "extended drain interval" has already gone out the window.
Looking at it from the "green" point of view, a poor man cannot afford the luxury of being "green", and must do as his limited means allows.
And besides, with my limited scientific abilities, I can barely discern bar-and-chain oil from 15W-40; how would I know if said laboratory actually "analyzed" my oil, or if they just dumped it down the drain and sent me a bunch of sophisticated bogus information that I barely understood ??
Looking at all this from the poor man's side of the fence, it has been my observation that one dose of oil sent for analysis is about equivalent cost to a good FleetGuard filter and three-gallons of decent CI4 oil (providing you know where to shop), so any economy in "extended drain interval" has already gone out the window.
Looking at it from the "green" point of view, a poor man cannot afford the luxury of being "green", and must do as his limited means allows.
And besides, with my limited scientific abilities, I can barely discern bar-and-chain oil from 15W-40; how would I know if said laboratory actually "analyzed" my oil, or if they just dumped it down the drain and sent me a bunch of sophisticated bogus information that I barely understood ??
05-25-2009, 03:34 PM
#35
Registered User
THE RICH MAN's SIDE OF THE FENCE
For about four years, I was general manager and farm boss for a well-to-do doctor with a couple hundred acres and every kind of equipment you could imagine.
This guy had an early 24-valve and was addicted to AMSOIL.
Every other week, which would be about 1500-miles, he would pull astraddle of a ditch, pop the drain-plug, and let the oil pour out (on the ground--no less), screw on a new AMSOIL filter, and dump in a fresh batch of AMSOIL oil.
If he hadn't been kinda weird about things, I would have caught that almost new oil and put it to good use in lawn-mowers, saw-mills, trading trucks, etc.
This guy had an early 24-valve and was addicted to AMSOIL.
Every other week, which would be about 1500-miles, he would pull astraddle of a ditch, pop the drain-plug, and let the oil pour out (on the ground--no less)
, screw on a new AMSOIL filter, and dump in a fresh batch of AMSOIL oil.If he hadn't been kinda weird about things, I would have caught that almost new oil and put it to good use in lawn-mowers, saw-mills, trading trucks, etc.
05-25-2009, 04:57 PM
#36
Oil analysis can be a valuable tool even for the average Joe, without a huge investment. You don't necessarily send in samples all the time. It's about learning how your specific engine runs, behaves in your enviroment with the oil/filter of your choice and how you drive it. These things are variables that change how the engine wears in small or large ways, depending.
I did three samples over the first two years owning this truck to determine how long I could safely run the oil. May never do another one, unless I decide to change something. It's just nice to know I'm saving money in the long run by not dumping oil that has another 2, 3, 4, maybe more thousand miles of good useable life left in it. My setup below is good for about 18k miles on a fill of Rotella T-Syn.
I did three samples over the first two years owning this truck to determine how long I could safely run the oil. May never do another one, unless I decide to change something. It's just nice to know I'm saving money in the long run by not dumping oil that has another 2, 3, 4, maybe more thousand miles of good useable life left in it. My setup below is good for about 18k miles on a fill of Rotella T-Syn.
05-25-2009, 06:40 PM
#37
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Duluth, MN
Posts: 643
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Do you know if they used engine flush that Ams suggest before they installed it? I used it in the two Gas vehicles I own, but I was afraid to in my Cummings as it just turned 200k. I just put it in.
My neighbor found a sight that some independent company did an analysis of ALL brands of oil. I will try to get in touch with him and post it, its what convinced me.
My neighbor found a sight that some independent company did an analysis of ALL brands of oil. I will try to get in touch with him and post it, its what convinced me.
05-25-2009, 07:53 PM
#38
Registered User
What are ones thoughts on switching from amsoil syn back to rotella on say my 06.. I've been running it for the past 40k and haven't had an issue, but I've always changed 10-12k. Cause I figure oil is cheap compared to Engine parts.. But, since I do it that way, thinking it may be cheaper/better just to run Rotella with a Mopar filter. What are some of your guys thoughts??
07-13-2010, 11:07 AM
#42
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 185
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If anyone does desire CI4 oil, Amsoil has several choices that are always in stock (at least everytime I've looked).
5W-30 synthetic
https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/hdd.aspx
10W-30 synthetic
https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/acd.aspx
15W-40 synthetic
https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/ame.aspx
15W-40 synthetic blend
https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/pco.aspx
As far as the "is it worth it" debate, I honestly believe that Amsoil makes a higher quality product. I've done a lot of research and looked at a lot of comparison tests, and Amsoil is always at the top of the pack if not the best. I know my truck is getting the best stuff put into it.
5W-30 synthetic
https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/hdd.aspx
10W-30 synthetic
https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/acd.aspx
15W-40 synthetic
https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/ame.aspx
15W-40 synthetic blend
https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/pco.aspx
As far as the "is it worth it" debate, I honestly believe that Amsoil makes a higher quality product. I've done a lot of research and looked at a lot of comparison tests, and Amsoil is always at the top of the pack if not the best. I know my truck is getting the best stuff put into it.
07-13-2010, 11:31 AM
#43
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: North of Calgary Alberta
Posts: 1,115
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My 2 Cents for what its worth
I run the Cummins blue In the new trucks I ran the synthetic on extended oil changes and am about to change the old one to Cummins blue Dino.
As far as price i get a really good rate with my power booster plus I can get the filters there to
only other place that would be better price for me is the Case IH Ag store just cuz its closer
I run the Cummins blue In the new trucks I ran the synthetic on extended oil changes and am about to change the old one to Cummins blue Dino.
As far as price i get a really good rate with my power booster plus I can get the filters there to
only other place that would be better price for me is the Case IH Ag store just cuz its closer
07-14-2010, 12:49 PM
#45
Registered User
lenuelmp23,
I think wannadiesel kind of addresses your concern and everyone's pretty simply. Pick a name brand oil that you feel comfortable with and you'll be ok.
What is important is changing the oil at the proper interval.( before it wears out or is over contaminated)
The proper interval can be found thru several oil analyses' getting an average interval based on your driving throughout a year or so. The interval lets you get your money's worth out of the oil you choose.You don't want to overrun an oil, and you don't want to throw useful product away. That's efficient. Oils that run longer cost more and vice versa. You may or may not need that.
IF you change an aspect of the equation i.e. pump tune, drive habits, dusty conditions,climate, etc, you need to re analyze the oil and find the new interval if necessary.
It is a simple scientific approach really. And very frugal and logical.
You will make yourself crazy ( as will the oil marketing people) by trying to find the best. That's like having an argument about what's the better truck with Ford and Chevy die hards in the room. It's all brand loyalty, perception and some opinions. I have never read a definitive thread on the best. It's like religeon, we are entitled to our own beliefs regardless of what the others try to persuade us with.
There are important choices to make when choosing oil like viscosity for anticipated climate etc. I am not saying oil is oil, I am saying take into account budget and conditions and anticipations and form your own opinion.
I am by no means an expert, but after going nuts trying to find the best, I realized that what's important is what has been said above. Now breathe a sigh of relief. Unless you didn't change your oil well past a reasonable interval, I think your baby will be ok. We are all like new mothers when it comes to engines, and usually we worry ourselves to much. Only a small amount of people actually will wear out a Cummins in our application. And that will be many miles beyond what most of us will ever see before we get rid of them. Unfortuneately they won't last forever but they are very robust.
I think wannadiesel kind of addresses your concern and everyone's pretty simply. Pick a name brand oil that you feel comfortable with and you'll be ok.
What is important is changing the oil at the proper interval.( before it wears out or is over contaminated)
The proper interval can be found thru several oil analyses' getting an average interval based on your driving throughout a year or so. The interval lets you get your money's worth out of the oil you choose.You don't want to overrun an oil, and you don't want to throw useful product away. That's efficient. Oils that run longer cost more and vice versa. You may or may not need that.
IF you change an aspect of the equation i.e. pump tune, drive habits, dusty conditions,climate, etc, you need to re analyze the oil and find the new interval if necessary.
It is a simple scientific approach really. And very frugal and logical.
You will make yourself crazy ( as will the oil marketing people) by trying to find the best. That's like having an argument about what's the better truck with Ford and Chevy die hards in the room. It's all brand loyalty, perception and some opinions. I have never read a definitive thread on the best. It's like religeon, we are entitled to our own beliefs regardless of what the others try to persuade us with.
There are important choices to make when choosing oil like viscosity for anticipated climate etc. I am not saying oil is oil, I am saying take into account budget and conditions and anticipations and form your own opinion.
I am by no means an expert, but after going nuts trying to find the best, I realized that what's important is what has been said above. Now breathe a sigh of relief. Unless you didn't change your oil well past a reasonable interval, I think your baby will be ok. We are all like new mothers when it comes to engines, and usually we worry ourselves to much. Only a small amount of people actually will wear out a Cummins in our application. And that will be many miles beyond what most of us will ever see before we get rid of them. Unfortuneately they won't last forever but they are very robust.