dstad

Yes jim my cam plug seaped oil on mine. pulled adapter plate and jb welded over cam plate. Filed smooth. No more leak. Also did rear main at same time.

Jim Lane

Thanks guys,

Is there any reason that I should not be able to pull the trans back without having the torque converter slipping out once all is disconnected? maybe a small c-clamp on the bell-housing.

When I change my filter I usually suction the fluid out of the pan through the dipstick hole and store it in 5 gallon pails.

I made a pair of custom test plugs with 1/2" male flare fittings to plug the transmission ports, thinking I should be able to contain all of the fluid within the transmission once it is pulled loose.

Oh yea, forgot about the tail shaft seal, Ill make something for that. (wish I had some of the shipping plugs they come with.)

I am planning to go Cummins Pacific in Irvine tomorrow and get the seal kit, I will also drool over the equipment in the yard.

Now I am trying to round up someone to help me with the physical part.

Jim

mhuppertz

Sorry you have to go through that. I am going to have to redo my front main because it was marginal and I decided not to sleeve it. Probably not marginal anymore.

bannerd

Mine leaking a little oil as well where the tranny mounts to the adapter for the torque converter. There is shims that seat in there, having a hell of a time finding them.

Angry Johnny

The converter should stay put unless the trans gets tilted for some reason. I have used a pair of vise grips on the bell housing to keep the converter from falling out.

j_martin

Shouldn't be a problem unless you tilt the transmission forward. If yer concerned, a piece of strap iron across the bell housing and 2 bolts should secure it.

Jim Lane

I just checked and I found out after I remove the center bearing and drive shaft, the yoke stays on the transmission so there shouldn't not be any oil from the back end once I wire it in place.

I lined up a transmission jack from my local rental yard and I think I am going to attempt it for this weekend.

When I installed my 4" DE down pipe I made it so everything from the head-pipe, the extension and the muffler are easily removable just for such occasions so there shouldn't be anything in the way.

Are all of the bell housing bolts accessible from the bottom of the truck?
Bolts are Metric correct?

Are there any torque specs. that I should know about during reassembly?

Torque Converter/ Flex Plate?

Bell housing/ Adapter Plate?

Starter?

BTW when I was at Cummins Pacific on Friday I ask and there is a main seal with an installed wear sleeve

#3934486 Seal Kit $81.59
#4947667 Gasket Rear Cover $7.63
#3926126 Seal Kit with integrated wear sleeve. (around $120.00)

The parts person gave me a copy of the included instructions and it appears that it needs a special tool to install the seal and the sleeve onto the crank, he said that it cost about $200.00

I can post the instructions if anyone is interested.

Cummins had all of these in stock.

Jim

Angry Johnny

I don't believe the bell housing bolts are metric. In those years it was a pretty mixed bag of bolts.

You shouldn't have to remove any of the exhaust, might make it easier though, especially working on your back.

There is certainly torque specs for all those bolts but I wouldn't worry about any of them except maybe the flex plate to crankshaft bolts.

I access all the bolts from underneath utilizing a 3 foot long extension and a swivel socket, 9/16. The top two bolts are easier if you allow the engine and trans to swing down some.

Jim Lane

Ok,
Tonight when I got home from dinner I started getting my truck ready to pull the trans tomorrow, I got the ATF pumped out of the pan, took about 5 minuets and all of the clamps off the exhaust.

But I have a few more question, how do the get the bolts out of the torque converter, with an open end wrench through the bottom or is there another access hole somewhere on the adapter plate, I haven't had a chance to really look for one.

Also I was noticing that my ATF was starting to look a little on the brown side again.

Should there be any interferance between the fan and the shroud?
Looks like it should tilt backward when the engine rear drops.

Thanks Jim

Angry Johnny

I've never loosened a shroud on them, as long as it's all stock you should be good.

The torque converter bolts are the hardest part of the job. There is a plate above and inboard of the plug for the barring tool held on with 2, 10mm bolts. Use a socket and ratchet to remove them. They are 5/8. When you remove the inspection cover on the bottom of the bell housing there is a small mark that you line up with another torque converter bolt and then you are lined up for a bolt in the access hole.

j_martin

If you're concerned about the shroud, remove the two clips on top, lift it up off the bottom clips, and hang it on the propeller. It'll then enjoy the ride to wherever. It's literally a 30 second move, most of them looking for the clip that flew free.

When you discover that you don't want to disassemble the front u-joint, just pull the yoke out of the transmission. It'll bleed about an ounce, and you can rubber band a baggie over the tail housing for the duration.

diesel402004

When you remove the tranny the engine will want to tilt forward rapidly. Good idea to put a wood block between block and rad. as it torques the motor mounts and could tear them.

Jim Lane

How is the balance of the engine once I remove the trans, you say it will tip forward how much weight are you talking, a few pounds or hundreds?

I have the engine supported on my floor jack and a stack of 2X12X16 with a hole cut out for the drain plug, it supports the entire oil pan, I used these when I replaced a clutch on a W-250.
Could I stick a block between pan and the frame?

Jim

torquefan

The balance is actually really good. The engine definitely won't come slamming down. It Just floats around a bit. You can use a block between the pan and frame for sure if you choose, or it will be fine with nothing at all.

diesel402004

That will work😂