Hello everyone! I've been checking out this forum for some time and finally registered. I need some help. I have a 1993 D-350 auto, 226K. BD 230hp pump about 9 months old, the usuall tps repair, but thats about it. Saturday, pulling an empty trailer, it shut down as if the key was turned off. Other than oil and filters, this truck has no dark clouds. I checked the lift pump, seemed to be ok, but replaced it anyway. I can hear the stop sol clicking when I pull off the blue wire with key on. removed it anyway and replaced it with a known good used one off a 92 parts truck, still no start, but plenty of crank speed.
Questions: what is the second solinoid down low on the pump? Doesnt seem to get power. Also, with the key on, should I be able to crack the lines @ the injectors and prime the entire system with the lift pump?
I have also verified pump rotation by removing the oil fill tube to see the pump gear turn while cranking. Also replaced the fuel filter with the lift pump, drained it and observed no water, rust or other contaminants. Fuel tank is full with about 90 miles on this tank.
This is a daily work/driver. Any help is welcome!
Thanks in advance.

 

Well I am not much help but I will give you my thoughts anyways.

The other solinoid on the pump is the KSB, it is for cold starts and gets its power from a temerature sensor in the back half of the intake, if it was cold out it should have had power and will make a big difference in how your truck runs when its cold. but thats another issue, your truck will run without it.

I dont think the lift pump will prime the entire system, It will get the fuel to the injection pump then you need to crack some injecor lines and crank the engine to get all the air out. I would guess you have done this to bleed the entire system after putting the new lift pump on?

Just some thought as to it not starting at first. what about a cracked supply line that let air into your system? Not sure if it would kill the truck like it did but you could check for any lines that are dripping or damp with fuel from the tank to the lift pump.

hang on, get a good look at the entire system and check for fuel at all the injectors while theres still daylight then be ready for questions...smarter people will be on to help you out later tonight.

 

Your symptoms sound like a repeat of Maxx250's ordeal...

You can test the IP by cracking the lines at the injectors.
IP working good = good squirt of fuel
IP questionable or air in the lines = foamy/sudsy fuel

 

if your positive the solinoid is good i would say you need to look for good lp fuel pressure, then if thats ok, check for air. on cold night old hoses can shrink and let air in .theres not a lot of things that will stop a 12 v from starting

 

Okay, #6 and #1 dribble fuel when all 6 are cracked. Pressurized tank and checked lines for leaks-none. Fuel pressure while cranking at hard line @ FP inlet is 9psi, but it took 10-15 seconds of cranking to max at 9psi. Pressure remains after cranking stops. The stop sol moves about 1/8" in and out during test off the truck.
Is there anything in the pump that could fail suddenly, and shut off fuel to the squirters?
Thanks for the help.

 

Rebal, the only test on the fuel stop sol was to ground the case and power the terminal on top. The piston drew in upon power, 1/8" and moved back out when power was removed under the spring tension.
Is there a different test procedure?

 

Will it bark on ether? (Disable the grid heaters first by pulling one small wire off each relay.)

Any smoke at all while cranking?

I gotta say it doesn't sound good for the pump. That 9 psi, was that dead ended into the gauge or was it making 9 psi while supplying the pump?

 

The fuel press test was dead end @ gauge. It tries to bark on wd-40. I just bypassed the lift pump with a Holley Blue w/o a regulator. Again, w/key on #1 will drip thru to the injector just running the electric pump. The local Diesel shop (where the 230BD pump came from) says BD will warranty it due to the time it's been on the truck, but couldnt tell me if they would warranty it due to the fact that it's been turned up.
Dont seem to have any smoke while cranking, nor any evidence of fuel in crankcase.

 

I think you've exhausted all the cheap possibilities, gotta be a dead VE pump.

 

Yeah, kind of what I was thinking.

 

I spoke with BD a few minutes ago. As I suspected, they get queasy about warranty on a pump thats been tuned. (They sell a hotrod pump and then expect me to leave it alone?) Looks like Ol' 93 12Valve is going to help out with a stock spare pump off of his parts truck, (Thanks again for the help today guys.) until I can get this one repaired, replaced, whatever.
Thank you guys who posted up with replies of help and advice.

 

hope BIG RED does the trick. See you out there soon