Guys,

I went to the alignement shop and they were nice and showed me the lower ball joints are moving around... D250 I got the 7055K's or what ever was in the sticky.

I'm hoping that maybe I didn't get the nut tight enough?? I lightly greased the tapers- maybe that was a bad thing??

Michael

 

so nobody has ever had a problem with defective moog parts??

These lower ball joints are junk.



M

 

I have had them in my heap for about 30,000 miles and have not had a problem. Sorry about your luck.

 

Lots of people talking about Moog quality issues. Do a search for any vehicle and you will see many comments on poor quality issues, its said that their production has been moved off shore?

When did you put them in?

 

Sure they're not loose in the control arms and about to pop out? I've seen alot of balljoints pop out of these trucks.

 

They seem to be seated..

But they told me there can be lateral play in a good joint. Dodge only does vertical movement (0.020 max). SO your suppose to unload the wheel and then use a prybar to check vertical. Ignore the lateral...?


Michael

 

After reading the issues with Moog's quality (or lack there of), I decided to go with Raybestos ball joints and control arm bushings. Im still waiting to get the truck back from paint to install them. They look like good pieces though.

 

I figured I'd bring this thread back up. I followed the FAQ recs for Moog K7053T lower baljoint. Put them in and took it for an alignment and the shop is saying they have excessive play. I'm going to double check the castle nuts but if I can get the truck through inspection and I don't see to much play (in my eyes) then I'm going to roll with it for awhile.

 

Good info, I'm about to rebuild an entire 4K lb front end, and was planning on going with Moog. Might be better off just greasing the 200K OEM's that came off McKnittle's truck.

 

Moog's QC has gone to Edit, buddy did moogs in his 06 4x4 and a year later their toast. The rig is bone stock. Spicer is also now making its parts offshore. I wouldnt buy either.

I use Precision brand U-joints( forged/made in USA) in my buggy on 40" tires and not a issue in 3 yrs. Alot of guys with ball joint fronts are using XRF ball joints and having good luck. They make them for the D series trucks
Ball Joint Front Lower XRF K7053T
Ball Joint Front Upper XRF K7082
XRF Chassis | Automotive and Heavy Duty Chassis Parts | Canada and Unites States

Stu

 

Good day, OIly fab:

Just ordered a full set of XRF components. (Upper and Lowers, and All Tie Rods and Center Link and Idler) Bought them all on ebay. Seemed like a fair price, right in line with Amazon's Moog prices.

Now to find Jim Lane's old thread on NON gas charged front shocks.

 

I started this thread... well and I figured out my moog joints were fine! I have now maybe 25-50k on them and grease them regularly with Chevron Ultra grease. I believe that their product is quite good- the joint. The boots design for some part numbers has been changed.
For my D250, I think they might last forever if you service them. I'm happy and it's great to have tight steering- those OE parts were toast @ 125k miles. But I don't know how often that stuff was greased by the previous owners.
I replaced my wheel bearings and re-seated that suspect right side. I believe most of the alignment shops were not honest(or just clueless).

 

Moog=Taiwan now.

 

Ya price is not too bad, I'll be doing XRF on the ramcharger build and when the parts on my W350 I just did the front end on ware out it'll get them too.

Stu