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1st Gen. Ram - All TopicsDiscussion for all Dodge Rams prior to 1994. This includes engine, drivetrain and non-drivetrain discussions. Anything prior to 1994 should go in here.
I was driving and all of the sudden, the engine with about 600k miles on it completely lost power and quit. I pushed the primer bulb and noticed a massive leak in the location indicated on the photo. The engine won't start. Where is this leak coming from? How difficult is it to fix?
Most likely it's running down from somewhere.....my guess is either running from the little black vent tube off the top of the IP, just back of the 4 flat head screws on the top, or could be the back side of the IP against the engine there is is a cap there with two screws, or could be the O-ring on the head. if it's the top vent then it's a leaking O-ring around the small fuel pin that rides on the main fuel pin, it can be replaced by pulling the top off the IP, the others require pulling the IP to be able to replace the O-rings. Personally with 600K miles I would buy a Bosch DGK-121 reseal kit, pull the IP and do a complete re-seal on it....if one seal has gone the others are not far behind.
I checked more carefully and could not find any area that it might be leaking down. The leak appears to be originating from that spot at the bottom of the pump.
How difficult of a job is it to completely go through and reseal this pump? There is a vendor selling refurbished pumps for $700. Perhaps I would be better off going this route?
After looking at the picture, I notice there is a bare wire at your fuel shutoff solenoid, did it come unhooked or is it already gutted? There is no doubt the leak needs addressed but that could be the reason it quit
The fuel shut off solenoid quit working a long time ago. The wire also fell off a while back. However, I thought maybe that was why the engine quit so I twisted it back on to see if it would start. It didn't make any difference.
The fuel shut off solenoid quit working a long time ago. The wire also fell off a while back. However, I thought maybe that was why the engine quit so I twisted it back on to see if it would start. It didn't make any difference.
I am a bit confused by this comment. By quit working, you mean it would not shut down the truck and you were using the manual shutdown? You should probably pull the fss and see if it is all there, it may have put some debris into the system. As to your leak, I would listen to the above advice because these guys are the bomb with the VE. The pump is positioned where there is much that you cannot see while it is installed on the truck. Also, and this is true of any vehicle, leaks are really good at hiding themselves and looking at it while installed does not allow you to see where it is coming from, good luck...Mark
Very few VE leaks can be fixed with it on the engine. I rebuilt mine myself, tearing it down to every last individual piece and resealed it with the $12.00 kit off of eBay. There are many great online tutorials and if you have a micrometer and a solid day or two and are mechanically inclined you could do it too but there are a few tools you'll need, as in one just to get the pump off the motor and then a modified socket to pull out a wierd 3 sided bolt.
Don't worry about the FSS not working. If it had just failed and the leak happened it would be suspect but by the wire on the manual lever, like my truck too, it looks like you've been ashuttin it off this way for a while and the rubber prices have passed thru the motor.
Are you pointing to the end of the KSB (spade terminal) or the seam between the rotor head and body. I see that there is also a leak at the fuel pin housing and someone installed a drain tube on the vent.
Are you pointing to the end of the KSB (spade terminal) or the seam between the rotor head and body. I see that there is also a leak at the fuel pin housing and someone installed a drain tube on the vent.
I installed a drain tube on the vent when it started leaking there 2 years ago. Then it started leaking at the seam about a week ago.
Update:
I purchased a rebuilt pump as I felt my pump with 600k miles might be too far gone and might need more than reseal.
Meanwhile, I am about ready to take the old pump off to put on the new pump. Do I need to find TDC before remoing the old pump and installing the new? Or can I just do the following and be alright?
Copied and pasted from
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/forums/1st-gen-ram-all-topics-93/tdc-1st-gen-ram-139195/
There really is no need to set the engine at TDCor even lock the pump. I find it easiest to pull the pump when the keyway is at 12 or 1 o'clock. If you set it at TDC its somewhere around 5-6 o'clock. Its all fun and games till the halfmoon key falls out of the pump and you need to pull the timing case cover to find it....
The hardest part is reinstalling the pump and the pump gear is moving. It takes a concerted effort to get the halfmoon key into the pump gear. Don't force the nut in an attempt to pull the pump shaft into the gear as you will probably only destroy the halfmoon key and then need to get another. The nut should turn easily as you tighten it down.
Update:
I purchased a rebuilt pump as I felt my pump with 600k miles might be too far gone and might need more than reseal.
Meanwhile, I am about ready to take the old pump off to put on the new pump. Do I need to find TDC before remoing the old pump and installing the new? Or can I just do the following and be alright?
There really is no need to set the engine at TDCor even lock the pump. I find it easiest to pull the pump when the keyway is at 12 or 1 o'clock. If you set it at TDC its somewhere around 5-6 o'clock. Its all fun and games till the halfmoon key falls out of the pump and you need to pull the timing case cover to find it....
The hardest part is reinstalling the pump and the pump gear is moving. It takes a concerted effort to get the halfmoon key into the pump gear. Don't force the nut in an attempt to pull the pump shaft into the gear as you will probably only destroy the halfmoon key and then need to get another. The nut should turn easily as you tighten it down.
Brian
That is correct, but if you set it to TDC then rotate it 180 degrees, you will end up with the key on top, which is optimal...Mark
I was hoping to avoid having to find TDC. Is it really needed since the pump is keyed? If so, what's the easiest way to find TDC?
You can always rotate the engine to put the key on top after you pull the pump. I suppose that there is a very slight chance that the key could fall out during pump removal, but, if you do it as the fsm says, you run that risk any way. It is a very small risk on disassembly. Is it that you don't have a barring tool? You might be able to barrow 1 from auto zone. It seems to me that you can pull the pump out on any engine position and then rotate the engine on installation to put the key on top. If not you have to do the leap of faith that the key does not fall out during reassembly. I did mine with the key in the 6 O'clock position, it was just a bit nerve racking. I think that there are other ways to turn the engine, but a barring tool is the easiest..Mark
It all depends on how you are planning to set the timing with the new pump.
The standard procedure for installing a pump that has not previously been installed on the engine assumes that the pump is locked at the correct timing to be installed when the engine is at TDC. The timing case is then marked with a new mark to match the timing mark cast into the pump flange, allowing for future installation and removal with the engine in any position.
Your rebuilt pump should have come locked by the rebuilder, and you should install it with the engine set to TDC and mark the case for reference. You can then tune things if and as you see fit from there.
10-29-2018, 03:00 PM
