maybe368

Ok, to put this to bed (for me anyway), What I boil this down to is that, as long as the pump was set up correctly by the rebuilder, it is the correct pump (ic or non-ic) and there has not been any jumped teeth in the gearing, it does not matter what position the motor or pump is in for installation. If the engine is set so that #6 is TDC while the pump is still installed to avoid tooth jumping, the woodruff key will be at 12 O'clock, making the job a whole lot less stressful, that is all you need to know. It is probably possible that a tooth could jump anyway, but that would be a whole different problem, like worn gears or something. That is all...Mark

edwinsmith

There seems to be a lot of confusion about installing the VE pump so I am adding this to try to clarify matters.

I have installed a freshly rebuilt VE with the pump set to #1 TDC and the slot in the gear at about 5:30. BUT-BUT I have checked that the key is tight in the slot of the pump. You can gently stake the slot to make the key tight if it isn't. There is a Dodge video in 3 parts showing how to correctly install the new or rebuilt VE pump.

Here's part one of the video The other parts will be nearby in YouTube.

You would use this procedure ONLY if your VE pump had been set by the rebuilder at #1 TDC. If you're simply pulling the pump for a reseal you could reinstall the pump by lining up the timing mark on the pump flange with the mark on the timing case no matter what position the engine crank was in as long as the key lined up with the slot. In the videos it shows how to mark a new or rebuilt pump after a proper install so it can be R&R'd in the future.

I understand that you have obtained a used pump from another truck which means the mark on the pump, if any, will not match so you shouldn't worry about that and just install the pump by lining up the key to the slot. Rotation the engine to 12:00 (#6 TDC) is a good idea in that case but you should check the key in the pump shaft and make it tight by staking if necessary. If you plan on having the timing set by a professional later on you should polish the existing mark off the pump flange before you install it so you can put a new mark on it once it has been properly timed.

Regards

Edwin

mknittle

That's what I thought there is only one key way in on the pump shaft and one in the timing gear.There is only one way they will fit together.

mknittle

I don't think they make them anymore. cant pass smog. I worked for a company that had a bunch of the 53 series engines. Every once in a blue moon one would start and run backwards.

maybe368

Yes, that is the logical part of this...Mark

edahall

Update:

It's working again and thanks for all the help received on this forum! The used pump arrived yesterday and 3 hrs later, I had her installed and running again. However, it seems like I lost a 100 horsepower with this pump over the previous.

nonrev

edahall, Thanks for the update, so many people forget to do that
Do you still have the old pump? if so I would pull the afc cover and see if it has an after market pin or the stock pin was rotated to the deep side, I would also look to see if the tamper proof cover was taken off the full fuel screw
I believe you will find that your old pump had been "tweeked" and that is why the new pump seems sluggish. ( if you have it I would open the old pump and see if it has the 3200 governor spring also called the 366 spring)There is a very good write-up on tuning the VE pump in the "sticky's at the top of the page.