When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
1st Gen. Ram - All TopicsDiscussion for all Dodge Rams prior to 1994. This includes engine, drivetrain and non-drivetrain discussions. Anything prior to 1994 should go in here.
I think that is all you need to do. I thought that it was a rebuilt pump, so if it was running in a truck, there should be no problem doing that...Mark
You'll be reasonably close that way. You could always take it to a competent diesel mechanic and have it timed. Then you can advance it a bit if that sets your pants on fire.
Any tricks to removing that bottom 13mm injection pump nut without the special wrench?
I used a 1/4 inch drive and sufficient extension to get the ratchet back to where I could turn it. A wobble type extension at the bolt helps...Mark Edit: A 3/8" drive may work also, but I got it off with a 1/4"...
Ok, I'm all confused now. Keep in mind of the following.
- I have no manual
- The pump I'm receiving is used. It was removed from an engine that failed due to overheating.
- I have never done this job before.
Here is what I think I need to do. Correct me if I'm wrong.
1. Rotate the engine counterclockwise using the alternator until the key ends up at the 12 o'clock position.
2. Remove the defective pump.
3. Rotate the shaft on the used pump so that the key slot is at the 12 o'clock position.
4. Install used pump.
Will this work or am I missing something.
I think without first finding TDC on the number one cylinder you are going to have problems just putting the keyway at 12 o'clock. what I did on mine was
#1 I used a friend to help.
#2 I used lots of lube on the pin forcing it back and forth to help remove the crud around it, then took the #1 valve cover off and rotated the motor till the intake valve closed, had the helper use a pry bar to push on the pin then slowly rotated the motor till the pin pushed in (at that point I used a screwdriver to scribe a line on the damper with a screwdriver right next to the magnetic pickup) If you already have the pump off your helper can look to see if the slot in the gear is nearing 6 o'clock. Then you just have to rotate your motor 1 turn so the scribe line lines back up and your slot in the pump gear should be at 12 o'clock. (this is #6 cylinder on the compression stroke)
#3 at this point I will let Alec hopefully chime in because I'm not sure if you can just turn the pump to the 12 o'clock position and it will be in time on number 6, or talk to a good injection pump shop and ask them.
I hope this helps getting you to TDC and the good thing about the scribed line is when you adjust the valves, with the line lined up you will either be on the #1 or #6 cylinder.
Its a VE rotary pump. Trust me when I say it doesn't matter if you un-lock the pump" if locked" & spin the shaft around 20 times if you like.....it doesn't matter......line up your Inj pump gear keyway to where ever you like by rotating engine over by hand. I like 2 o'clock when looking from the front of engine, for ease. Then spin pump shaft to line up & install.
Line up the mark on the Inj pump to the mark on the gear housing if you want stock timing but who wants stock timing. Adj timing to where ever you like from there. Simple as that.
Last edited by nascar mark; 11-03-2018 at 11:00 AM.
Reason: spelling
I removed the pump shaft nut/lock washer and then rotated the engine until the keyway slot was at the 12 o'clock position.
I was unable to remove the bottom nut holding the pump to the cover until I got the power steering pump out of the way. Once I did this, the nut was easily accessible.
nascar mark, thank you for clarifying that as I was not sure exactly how the pump timing worked
As I said in a post above, it is only logical. It isn't like that key can change its relationship to the shaft, unless they are working on it at Hogwarts. The doubt comes in when you see differing opinions on it. When I said "internal timing" I was talking about the setup process involving a dial indicator, which the op doesn't need to worry about. K.I.S.S. is the word of the day, in my book...Mark
One more question for the pump gurus: It seems logical to me that all 6 cylinders fire in a single 360 degree rotation of the crank shaft, is that correct? If this is correct, then it is a fundamental difference between this engine and most gassers...Mark
One more question for the pump gurus: It seems logical to me that all 6 cylinders fire in a single 360 degree rotation of the crank shaft, is that correct? If this is correct, then it is a fundamental difference between this engine and most gassers...Mark
That is NOT correct. It is a 4 cycle engine. It takes 2 revolutions (720 degrees) to fire all 6 cylinders. Intake, compression, power, exhaust. Down, up, down, up.
That is NOT correct. It is a 4 cycle engine. It takes 2 revolutions (720 degrees) to fire all 6 cylinders. Intake, compression, power, exhaust. Down, up, down, up.
Edwin
Ok then,you asked for it, how does the pump differentiate? ...Mark
I have re/re'd a few pumps and have never bothered with any timing....just remove old pump, reseal, and re-install. As long as you do not rotate the motor, for fear that the timing of the gear might skip a tooth or two is the main reason, you can just line up the new IP with the keyway and install.
And yes removing the PS/Vacuum pump makes the re/re much easier, that is what I do and it takes about 15 min to do and saves you so much time and hassle trying to get that lower 13mm bolt on and off.
I hope the IP you got is off a similar motor since the delivery valves length and KSB are different between Non-IC and IC motors.
11-02-2018, 05:48 PM
