Well, my key didn't get harder to turn, but I have to turn it harder to get the truck to start now.

It still starts as good as it has always done, but I have to twist the key a lot harder to get it to start to crank. I'm getting a sore wrist from it, and I'm afraid that something's about ready to short out or something and leave me stranded...

Anybody got any idea's? I'm thinking some kind of intermittent short someplace that requires me to really press the key for a second to get a signal through... Maybe a bad Neutral/ Park sensor? (Although I just replaced that a few months ago...) I don't know what it could be ...

Thank's for any help...

 

Chrysler supposedly had a real problem with ignition switches. I put an aftermarket one in my 92 last year. I would say it was real easy. I would guess the contacts in the ignition switch have worn out and forcing the key moves the contacts to an area that is good enough to work. I don't know if your 90 has the same column as my truck though.

 

i replaced my tumbler about 6 months ago. it only helped a little

 

a piece broke off on the inside of my switch causing a similar problem. i replaced it a few months ago with an aftermarket switch (about $12). not too difficult a job, but you need a T-20 tamper-proof torx bit, and now the switch key is different than the door key. if not the switch itself, it's the contacts as mentioned above. while i was at it, i removed the piece from the new switch that causes the annoying key buzzer ... the buzzer still works if you accidently leave lights on

 

The only unusual tool I needed was a T-15 (I think) extended length screwdriver to split the column cover. I think my truck had just regular torx screws otherwise.

 

The main question is whether or not you have a tilt column.

 

This exact same thing happened on my 89 D350 and on my 86 Ford 350, in both cases it was teh ignition switch.
This is not the tumbler! It is a plastic slide switch that an actuator rod runs to from teh tumbler. It was very simple to replace otehr than gettnig to it behind all the other wiring. ON both teh D350 and F350, it was located on teh base of the steering column.

 

Yep..went thru the same bs last winter (or was it the winter before?). Anyway it went from difficult to turn to no start in 2 days. The problem was the outside of the tumble cylinder split and it wouldn't turn properly in the housing.
Bought a new cylinder and a tumbler, got it chnaged to my key, and problem solved.
Yes I needed a tamper proof torx...my son had a set at his shop so that was no biggie.
I did run the truck a few days sans key cylinder...a screwdriver will work short term.
Jay

 

A pin punch works wonders on those stupid tamper proof screws. Just give the little post in the middle a tap at an angle and it busts right out, letting you use a plain old T-20.