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Must the AFC cover be on VERY tight?

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Old Mar 8, 2004 | 09:02 AM
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Must the AFC cover be on VERY tight?

dug into my pump a little this weekend to see where things were set. Turns out the fuel pin was already in the best place (boy setting it to the worst setting really slows the truck down!)

When I set it back to full on, I still had sluggishness, and only about 1/2 my boost, and low EGT's (no fuel still), so I got worried of course. The 4 screws were on like superman had done it, eventually I hammered on them too and the truck came back.

That diaphram is so thick, why does that cover have to be on so tight to seal?

Now, starwheel, how do you get the retainer out to turn that sucker?

And low rpm screw....I have it close to flush with the lock nut, I went 2 turns more than it had been. Now a see just a tiny puff low down, and maybe a little more power. WIth it flush with the lock nut I've about got to have it all the way in?
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Old Mar 8, 2004 | 05:27 PM
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Those 4 bolts must tighten over time due to the aluminum housing. I can tighten mine up where it isnt very tight, and the next time im in there its a booger.


I have never taken the retainer out to adjust the starwheel. Usually you can take a flat head screw driver and start to to turn it. Then it usually frees up and you can move it by hand.
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Old Mar 8, 2004 | 05:39 PM
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If you have the smoke screw down flush with the lock nut, that's all there is. My star wheel moves just fine with a screwdriver also. I like my smoke screw backed all the way out so it's flush with the inside of the AFC cover, and I run the star wheel pretty loose so it still spools quick without a big cloud every time I shift.
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Old Mar 9, 2004 | 10:07 AM
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I tried prying the retainer back a little with 1 screwdriver and then tried turning the starwheel with a 2nd, but I couldn't only get about 1/8 of a turn
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Old Mar 9, 2004 | 04:06 PM
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You don't need to remove that spring tensioner.... It can be a bit tight if it's never been moved before... I have used a screwdriver and finally got in there with a my fingers and reef'd on it..once you get it to moving, it should get easier as you go..

Pastor Bob...
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Old Mar 10, 2004 | 08:39 AM
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is there a way to tell if it's been screwed in all the way? I really doubt it has, but, my smoke screw was in quite a ways....
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Old Mar 10, 2004 | 08:37 PM
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I use the needle nose pliers on my leatherman to turn the star wheel and it rotates just fine, just a lot of clicking, depending on the way your going, and as for the bolts, I also have just lightly tightened mine and when I went back to do more adjusting, found they popped when I loosened them. I marked the wheel and housing and also the diaphram and housing with a sharpie before I ever moved anything, this way I know where I started so I can go back, but now have 28 psi @ wot unloaded and only 1150* EGT, and it'll nail you to the seat, punched it this afternoon to get around the aholes going slow in the fast lane and only had a constant steady stream of mild blackish to gray smoke from the pipe. Maybe I should throw 3-4K lbs in the bed and nail it to see what it'll do on the same hill.
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Old Mar 11, 2004 | 08:57 AM
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still would like to know if there's a way to tell if the starwheel is turned all the way in?
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Old Mar 11, 2004 | 01:58 PM
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You should be able to tell that it has bottomed against the housing . . .

Just measure how far down it was to start with and take it all the way out to see what is going on. I set mine by measuring how much compression was on the spring -- how much spring was sticking out of the housing.
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Old Mar 11, 2004 | 04:29 PM
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I would say I'm around 1/4" gap if I just set the housing on top of the spring with the smoke screw about flush with the locknut and the starwheel where it is.

Does that help anyone compare against theirs?
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Old Mar 11, 2004 | 07:40 PM
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Well, I am at about 1/8th . . . it was 1/4 stock. That is the measurement I was trying to convey in my signature. HOWEVER, I have my "smoke screw" all the way out with the diaphragm hitting the stop cast into the cover. I would guess, though, that you are not bottomed on the star wheel yet. I would also think that you get some smoke off the line?
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Old Mar 11, 2004 | 09:59 PM
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Maybe I'm reading this wrong but.... to adjust the starwheel you simply turn the "gear lookin thingy" NOT the threaded shaft it is on... If I'm just "peakin" here please disregard the comment..

Pastor bob..
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Old Mar 12, 2004 | 10:29 AM
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I hope you're right Bob, as that's what I was trying to do. Tried to rotated it by prying a screw driver tween the cogs and the housing.

I get virtually no smoke any time. About the only time I get any smoke is if i really bog it coming off a stop light or something.
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Old Mar 12, 2004 | 01:16 PM
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It's fairly common to find the starwheel all the way down and kind of stuck at the bottom of it's "post".
Also you may find that as you start to adjust it, the "post" will kind of turn a tiny bit too....not to worry...
Mine did just that... once I got the starwheel loose, I removed it, used a large socket and tightened the nut on the bottom of the post to secure the "post" more firmly, then put the starwheel back on...

Those are pretty "hardy" parts in there so don't be overly concerned about getting a tad physical with them...

Pastor Bob....
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Old Mar 15, 2004 | 09:33 AM
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I started to gall the housing a little with the screwdriver, that's when I decided I should stop and ask =)
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