1. How much does a Cummins engine weigh?

2. What engine stand can I get that will work for the weight that you can turn to work on it in various positions.

3. Where is the best place to buy rebuild kits or other parts ....other than Cummins, or should it all be purchased through cummins ( ie. head gaskets, bearings, injection pump rebuilds etc.

I just purchased a complete motor, 5 sp. w/ T-case today for cheap. I always wanted to tear one down and rebuild it, although it may not need it. But, since it will be a spare driveline, why not, just wanted to pick others brains for engine stands and where you all got parts @ .

 

According to FSM 399 kg or 880 lbs dry...Mark

 

LOL, 880 would be very light, perhaps with nothing at all on it.

Make sure you have a commercial rated stand as well, 1200 lbs must not weigh the same in China.....

 

LOL you are argueing with the Factory Service Manual? I cannot vouch for the validity of the info, but it came right from the FSM. Also, doesn't dry mean with nothing in it...Cheeez....Mark

 

Lets just say its freakin heavy !

Will be happy to get it in my garage next week to start playing around with it. Does anyone that you are aware of sell complete rebuild kits for these motors?

 

I would geuss it weight in the 1100 pound range dressed out. that said if you mount it sideways on the engine stand it will create less of a moment around the upright and will not cause it to fail. You still need a strong stand.

 

I got a 1,500lb engine stand at Harbor Freight that worked good with my engine. It rotates 360* and locks into place.

I bought a full rebuild kit with marine pistons, 60lb springs, and all new pushrods. Let me look up the site and price.


Puredieselpower.com is the site. I paid $950 for everything. The engine ran good before the injection pump blew. No more blowby than normal, always started and ran smooth. I'm glad I pulled the head and now rebuilding it now, the motor was on its way out!!! There was also metal blades from a trashed water pump in behind the oil cooler. If you have time it's definatly worth rebuilding just to make sure you have a good motor ready to go. Take your time building it, maybe even do a valve job and port the head. Its nice to not be rushed.

 

Nah, I was more concerned that he doesn't get a stand made in China......

880 would be pretty close without anything on it, the problem is most of us dress them out before we take it off the stand.

 

Sealed Power or FP Diesel sells a rebuild kit. You can get them on agkits.com.

They include pistons, rings, bearings and gaskets.

You really ought to take it apart and see what it needs first. You might be surprised.

 

I took my `92 5.9 to the local moving company scale and got a certified weight slip. my engine with adapter plate, flex plate, starter, vacc/ power steerin pump, clutch /fan & idler, A/C compressor, alternator, HX35 turbo, 24v exhaust manifold, oil filter, and 12 qt oil, water pump,tensioner and serp belt, Ve pump& lines, all weighed 980 pounds. a P-pumped motor would weigh at least 50 pounds more. this is ACTUAL weight. no guessing or hear say.

 

I'm pretty sure that tha FSM isn't guessing or heresay...Mark

 

I am going to tear it all down to check it out.

Something here on the website that I hardly ever hear about is motor parts or guys rebuilding the motors. I understand why with the motor and all, but I am interested in what to buy and from who (learning from others mistakes) rather than me learning the hard way.

I put a head gasket on my current truck and the crosshatch marks were still on the cylinder walls, and that was @ 300K miles.

The motor I bought has 244 K on it and only needs a turbo at the current time, but I wanted to tear it all down, start over and KNOW what it is I have. Not necessarily going all out performance wise, but more so for peace of mind and the experience.

Already have a motor stand as the neighbor has a beefy stand that I can use.

 

The process for this or any engine rebuild is to disassemble it first, have it mic'ed out, determine what it needs and then buy the kit. A complete rebuild needs a complete valve job also. These diesels are no different than any engine, as far as the process goes. It is always easier to and cheaper to rebuild a motor BEFORE it REALLY needs it. It is a mistake to buy the kit, then try to make it work, you may need to bore it, resleave it or throw it in the trash and buy another one. This is from years of rebuilding gas engines, of which I am proud to say have not failed....Mark

 

Thats the plan. I also want to get some porting/polishing done on it when the time comes.

 

We always figure the weight at 1,000 lbs. I think that is a pretty safe number.